Slug's Genpu Newb Chronicle

This is a newb thread; written by a newb; for the newbs or anyone thinking about purchasing a used MS3; that will be updated as I traverse all that is related to my 2013 MS3. If you don't like reading repeated newb topics or don't have the patience dealing with "newbishness" this thread is probably not one you'll want to be lurking in.

I dont drive the car hard and never go "wot", and do not have a "racer" mentality. I don't have plans to track, drag or do any street racing activities. So this thread is more about DD level type stuff (yawn, I know ).

Initial impressions:
I hadn't realized how much I actually missed driving a turbo vehicle until I started driving this car. In stock form, acceleration pushes you nicely against the seat and the torque steer makes you feel more connected to the driving experience (the car doesn't do all the control work for you like some new sports cars, thereby taking the fun out of driving spirited).​

The suspension is a bit stiff and the end of my daily commute has terrible roads and therefore my daily commute has become uncomfortable due to the stiff suspension. Not a deal breaker, but something to note. The stock suspension is a tad rough, but expected in a sports/performance car.

The transmission and shifting is a fickle bitch in this car. Coming from manual econoboxes and non-performance vehicles, the difference is stark and unsettling. I initially thought the transmission was suspect. But it turns out hard shifts, gear noise and finicky linkage is normal for this car. You will hear the LSD whine when making hard turns and you will get gear teeth chatter and audible gear clanking as you cruise through the gears, especially when the engine/transmission is cold. This is normal.

In a quest to determine its shifting normalcy I had other speed owners and Mazda master technicians drive my car. They said mine felt normal and in some cases much better than theirs did "stock." I've uncovered in my online research that this transmission can take abuse and a lot of power. I'll take this over a perfect feeling soft econobox transmission, especially in a performance vehicle, but that is not to say I won't try to make the shifting feel better over time.​

The seats are not very satisfying either as a hefty and tall individual. The seats lack adequate mid-thigh support for a tall person and seem just a tad too short or don't have a steep enough bucket angle. Long drives become uncomfortable in the leg area and therefore, I won't be taking the car on road trips for that reason.​

Overall, its an OK purchase that will get me by. I don't love the car, and it takes some getting used to all the Speed's quirks.​

Mod Diary:

Motor Mounts - my plans for mounts is simple, I don't plan on tracking/racing the car, so I hope to improve DD drive-ability by replacing the rear motor mount (RMM). Since I'm currently focused on improving drive-ability, my focus for an RMM was to keep the added vibes at a minimum but also achieve great shifting performance. My initial research uncovered that the best potential mounts based on user feedback overall are the CP-E stage 2 or a Damond RMM. I also drove a couple speeds that have the CP-E stage 2 installed and the vibes after break-in were pretty much stock and it felt great (even for my me, being vibe sensitive).

My research found that the following rear motor mounts may be rated in increasing stiffness/NVH in this order:

Focus E-Mount
Cork Sport Inserts
Cork Sport 80
CP-e Stage 1
CP-e Stage 2 (currently installed, vibes are hardly more noticeable than the stock vibes after "break-in" period, I highly recommend it if you are sensitive to vibes but need performance.)
Damond (preferred by sp0rk over CP-e Stage 2)
JBR & Cobb comparative
Others

So, I purchased the CP-E stage 2. initial impressions were that I couldn't take the break-in period vibes (between 800 and 1200 RPM the car vibrated hard - felt through seat, mirrors were unusable, dash sounded like it was going to fall apart) due to my long daily commute (in stop/go traffic) and the mount was removed within a day. Shifting was improved immensely though and the transmission felt beautiful with the mount installed.

Current situation: sold my new CP-e stage 2 and purchased a used/broken-in stage 2 that I test drove in the car I'm purchasing it from (vibes were almost stock levels and felt awesome).

Update - If you are sensitive to vibes, just get a used CP-e Stage 2. The performance is amazing and the vibes added are negligible and minuscule. While driving the vibes are identical to stock vibes. At idle, you get slightly more vibes than stock, but they are not any worse than having your base and radio turned up to "30" and are soft, not harsh feeling. You honestly won't notice the difference after a couple days of driving.

Update - due to perceived transmission issues and the mount exacerbating these, I removed it again and the car was taken to the dealer for warranty transmission evaluation/service. Currently on stock mounts again. - dealer could not duplicate any transmission problems but I sold the RMM anyway to opt for something less stiff.

Update - ordered Cork Sport RMM inserts to give them a try.
Update - Installed CS RMM inserts. Compared to a CPE-Stage 2, there are only 1/4 of the idle vibes and that is it. No added vibes while cruising or decelerating. Initial clutch slip to get the car going will have a rougher feel, but still about 1/4 of the vibes I experienced from the CPE-Stage 2. The butt dyno feels a bit more pep on initial acceleration through the gears. The engine feels like there is about 65% less movement on shifts and throttle blips. There is still pretty much the same engine growl on startup that was experienced with the CPE-stage 2. Which is awesome. For the daily driver, who wont be rampaging through gears like a 600lb gorilla the inserts are probably more than enough for satisfaction in engine movement control and comfort. If I was making more power, I'd probably go back to the CPE-Stage 2.

Update - CS RMM inserts have been in now for over a month. My brain seems used to the improvement and I could do with a tad bit more stiffening. Also, I think the inserts lift the transmission about a 1/4" due to extra material of the insert and since installing the inserts I've noticed its slightly harder to shift into first from neutral at a stop light.

Shifter - I've tried a JBR short shifter plate and JBR solid shift bushings. Both I've come to the conclusion are a waste of time/money for someone who is focused on day to day drive-ability. Not because they are JBR (the JBR quality was awesome), but because the nature of both mods reduces the drive-ability/comfort factor without much overall shifting benefit.

Even after multiple shift linkage adjustments and hours spent dialing in the short shifter plate (SSP) and linkage and trying different combinations (I even modified the ssp to have a lower ball head height), shifting/transmission feel was still reduced over the stock feel and even though the shift throw was reduced, I felt like I was taking a step backwards in drive-ability.

I tried the solid shifter bushings with the ssp in and ssp out and in each case, all they seemed to do was transmit more gear noise through the shifter, magnifying the already annoying gear clack and gearbox sounds. My solution? Remove them and just tighten the stock bushings. Now, with the stock bushings tightened, the shifter feels just as solid as with the metal shift bushings but I don't have the extra transmitted shifting noise.

So, I would recommend just tightening down your stock bushings if you don't plan to traverse your gear box like a rampaging 600lb gorilla and if you want a shorter throw, replace the entire shifter unit with a TWM or similar unit. Pricey yes, but the TWM feels beautiful (I drove another speed with one, if I had the funds, I'd get one).

Power - none planned yet due to warranty concerns. My goal if I did start power mods is a cool ~300 hp/tq to the wheels. The order of mods will be high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) internals --> intake & turbo inlet pipe (TIP) --> larger diameter exhaust (considering CorkSport or Magnaflow) --> pro e-tune (considering Freektune and others). Simple, and will allow for modest gains with a few bolt-ons.

Tuning/monitoring - I will be picking up a Cobb Access Port V3 at some point.
Update - due to Cobbs recent AP updates, I'm also looking into Versatunner now.

Appearance - blacked out the emblems and hit the top of the rear spoiler with matte black pasti-dip (7 coats).
Update - removed the plasti-dip as it was flaking around the edges.

Audio - (returned) Cheap Eonon GA6163f Android 5.1.1 head unit with PAC module for easy connection to Bose system. I returned this a few days after installing due to a multitude of problems. If you need assistance to resolve the bose compatibility and sound volume, the best resource is this:
​

 

Awesome thread! Out of curiosity though, have you considered other motor mounts like JBR or Damond?

 

You could give the Ford E-Focus RMM a shot if normal RMM options are too much for you. It's beefier.

I highly recommend the DM SSP if you're looking for a SSP but want to retain great drivability. It might not be as short as JBR or the others, but it'll give you a healthy mix of feel and reduced throw.

Remember if you add any SSP you'll probably have to tune the shifter a bit. @JBR made a good video explaining the process.



You also might want to consider a full intake (one with the combined sri/tip). You'll save money and you can fit a 3" intake without having to relocate the ECU.

 

Thank you for this post. I could have written much of the same. One difference, though, is that I am considerably smaller than you (5’ 8” 157 pounds) so the seats are more comfortable for me. Like you, it’s also my DD, and I don’t plan to ever race or track it. In fact, I recently admitted to another forum member that I’ve never actually gone WOT. But I will soon, because I have a tune waiting to go in. More on that later. I keep my cars for a long time (my last one, a Protege5, almost 12 years) so I want to keep this one in good condition.


I bought my CWP ’13 with tech package new from the dealer in August 2013, and have loved it ever since. It’s my first turbo, and first car with more than 150 HP. Even after almost three years of ownership, that turbo kick still brings a smile to my face, and I’ve been known to tell Spiffy (yeah, that’s her name) that I love her. Out loud. The only maintenance I’ve done, other than oil/filter/cabin air filter changes, is replace the front brake pads and rotors with OEM. Other than that, this car has been essentially flawless.


I installed the Damond RMM a few weeks ago and was shocked at the increased NVH. But at the same time, pleased with the improved handling and reduced engine movement. Going over speed bumps is much better because the engine stays in place. Since the installation, either I’ve gotten more used to it, or it has broken in (or a combination of the two). Either way, it’s better, and I enjoy a more intimate driving experience. I also bought a used Corksport SSP for $25 and put that in last weekend. I like the end result. It didn’t take long to get used to, and the shorter throw just adds a little “something.” So I’m going to keep it in.


I can see you’ve done the research on the order of upgrades, especially with regard to HPFP internals and an AccessPort. I changed my internals out last weekend (it wasn’t overly difficult, even for my limited mechanical skills). Waiting to go in are a test/race pipe with high flow cat, 3” intake, CP-E TMIC, and a Freektune. Why am I doing all this? I really don’t know, since I don’t plan to drive it on the track or street race. But I got caught up in what others were doing, and I’m learning a lot. I still have over two years left on the drivetrain warranty, so if I need service during that time, that may make things interesting.


I have spent about $2,400 on upgrade parts, AP and tune. Given my out-the-door price of the car new was only around $25K, I think this is an outstanding deal for a fast, reliable car that fits a family of four (we also have a ‘14 Honda Odyssey for big-car needs) and is very fun to drive. Enjoy it, and I look forward to your updates on this thread.

 

Thanks! Taken from above "I'm skipping over the Damond due to feedback that the vibes are more than the stage 2 after break-in." JBR's are like 88a duro or something? The CP-E stage 2 is 75. So I'm assuming that the vibes would be just as high with a JBR, if not higher, due to the higher duro rating. It will be eliminated from the running for future purchase due to this. If I can't take the stage 2, I'm sure I can't take a JBR RMM.

Thanks for reminding me about this. I think this is probably the most promising option for me (over the Corksport inserts) if I end up selling the Stage 2. The Ford E-Focus RMM doesn't require any modification and it bolts right up (Update: not actually true, it requires the purchase of a new bolt - the Ford course threaded bolt, Ford part# mount CM5Z-6068-A, M12 x 70mm flange bolt, coarse thread and high strength (Class 10.9)). Not to mention I can get one heavily discounted through my wife's dealership parts department.

My research found that the following mounts may be rated in increasing stiffness/NVH in this order:

Focus E-Mount
Cork Sport Inserts
Cork Sport 80
CP-e Stage 1
CP-e Stage 2
Damond (preferred by sp0rk over CP-e Stage 2)
JBR & Cobb comparative
Others

It might make sense for me to explore the other Cork Sport options as well. I'm really going to try to dial in low NVH and shifting performance.

I modified my JBR to match a DM design and got pretty damn close, to see if it helped. I partnered this with a few linkage adjustments (thanks for posting the video link here, I meant to do that) and still couldn't get it feeling better than stock shift feel. I loved the shorter throw, but gear changes were still worse. I'm having a difficult time thinking how the DM would be better after making my JBR closely match its design by taking apart the ball head and removing a lot of the metal to make it as flush as possible to the plate and a 30% throw (much like the DM).

Which company would you recommend? For other newbs reading this, this mod is not recommended without first installing high pressure fuel pump internals and having a tuning device to monitor and tune.
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What RPM range did you see the increase in NVH on the Damond motor mount? Did you experience tip in vibes? Do the tip in vibes rattle the mirrors more than bass/volume turned up on the stock stereo?

 

I'm a fan of HTP intakes. Their 3" comes with a mounting loop that'll keep it close to the hpfp area like stock.

 

I can say from experience the Damond mount is more comfortable for city driving compared to the CP-E. I actually sold my Stage 2 and bought an E-Focus mount, which I ran for maybe 10k miles and after ended up with the DM. So far it's definitely my favorite.

 

I noticed the change immediately upon starting it. I haven't really paid attention to what RPM range the vibes are the highest in. Probably in the 1.5K-2.5K range. Also, I've had to change my shifting habits, especially in the lower gears. If I give it a bit more gas to bring it to a higher RPM while shifting, that reduces the vibes.

 

When you pulled out your E-Focus after 10K how'd it look? By 10K, how did its performance hold up? Any tearing/degredation in the rubber?

The DM design makes it seem like it would transmit even more NVH than the CP-e stage 2 due to the reduced amount of vibe absorbing material (it looks counter-intuitive vibe wise). But I've updated my above list slightly due to your feedback.

 

It looked fine after 10k, no tearing. It performed more like stock as it wore, floppy and loose. Wouldn't waste my money again if I was faced with the same decision.

 

Very good to know. I'll pass on it then as I'm still looking for some sort of longevity performance. You have peeked my interest in the Damond for sure.

 

Glad I could help [emoji4]

 

Quick update: sold my CP-e stage 2 to a local genjuan owner. I'm purchasing a broken-in CP-e stage 2 today and hope to install this evening. I've driven the car that this particular rmm was in and I know how it was vibin in that one (pretty much stock levels). So if all goes well, I should be sitting comfortable with a broken-in CP-e stage 2 tonight. I'll post another update after the installation.

 

#buttslug

 

Nice write up. Glad to hear you are enjoying your car thus far.

As for you upgrade concerns, here are my two cents... Internals are a MUST as you already know... APv3 would be my next purchase after that and I'd just run an OTS map until you acquired more go fast parts... As for the RMM's, DM RMM is a rough beginning, but once you let it break in, the vibes really are not all that bad. I used to run the JBR 80a Duro RMM and it's vibes weren't bad at all, and I felt it was a much better driving experience over stock. If you're not looking to make big power, I would stay with the stage II short ram intakes from JBR or Corksport. Although, for a little extra money and a little extra horsepower, the HTP 3" intake is nice as well, and will fit without ECU relocation.

I'm curious to see what route you take on the exhaust side. I get the feeling that you don't want the loudest exhaust on the market. If that is the case, I would definitely take a look at the Magnaflow Catback that is offered for our platform. Very little drone during normal driving, but sounds mean during WOT. Very nice exhaust for a sleeper... I'd pair that with the Corksport Catted Downpipe, but I am a Corksport fanboy... It's a divorced downpipe, but if you're not trying to make over 500whp, it's not an issue. You'd max out fueling way before exhaust flow.

I've used Justin at Freektune for about 2 years now for my tuning and he is superb. Very friendly, helpful, and reliable and will safely push your car to it's limits. So good choice there, in my opinion. Good luck on your car!

 

Thanks! I was actually thinking about a CS cat back in the near future. Magnaflow was also on the list.

I installed a used CP-e Stage 2 RMM last night and its awesome. No tip in vibes like my new one had but just as stiff in the shift and driving performance. It has some vibes with the AC on, but nothing more than you'd experience with the radio turned up to 30 with the base setting all the way up with the Bose system. The vibes feel pretty much like stock except in idle. But even then the vibes are "softer" than what they were with a new stage 2. My wife actually can't tell the difference. So that is a pretty good litmus test right there.

So my final recommendation for a newb is that the CP-e stage 2 is an amazing choice for a high performing RMM if you are sensitive to vibes. This is coming from someone who is incredibly sensitive to vibes too. Just stick past the break-in period or buy a used one and avoid the break-in completely.

 

Glad to hear you have found a RMM that suits your needs! Wife approval is always the best. Happy wife, happy life.... The Corksport CBE sounds nice as well! I have a buddy here that has the stock downpipe with the Corksport exhaust.

 

Not sure if it'll make a huge difference in your case (probably not if they don't serialize/mark the mounts - which I don't know about one way or the other), but the cp-e Lifetime Warranty technically only applies for the part's original owner.

If you buy second-hand, you have to pay to have your mount serviced (say, if the bushing tears or wears excessively).

Just something you should be aware of.

 

Very good to note! Interestingly, my new one didn't have a visible serial number. The used one I purchased does though. So I'd assume the new ones also have them, but hidden. I believe the serial on the used one I got is stamped on the bushing.

Fortunately for me, this used one was dirt cheap and was in incredible shape, so hopefully it lasts a while. If the bushing fails, it looks easy enough to remove and put in a new one. The cost of the bushing is hopefully even less than what I paid for the used unit.

It will make for a good update regarding the experience if it ever does occur though.

 

It'll likely cost ~$100 (that's what I paid to have a used Stage 1 RMM serviced back in the day) and you'll have to send it to them to do it for you. They won't sell or send you a bushing to do it yourself.

Ask @phate about that...lol.