Slug's Genpu Newb Chronicle

I have had the jbr 80pmm for 3 years or so. It quiet down over the years or i got used to it

 

It completely stops the motor from moving around.

 

I heard this too, but can't really compare because I went from RMM + PMM to then adding the TMM. I will say this: the TMM adds a good amount of clutch out noise/chatter and gear whine, even the Damond. But it's a lot less than other TMMs.

 

I just had a new issue begin today regarding the lights dimming/brightening whenever turning the steering wheel and/or applying gas.

My contact with the dealer has illuminated that there is a TSB for this. I will be taking the car for warranty work regarding the issue in a couple days. I'll keep the thread updated and will see if they can provide me a copy of the TSB.

UPDATE: totally normal. voltage management, battery and alternator checked out OK and observed other GenPu owners also experiencing the same thing, some have reported that their car did this brand new. I'm chalking it up to just not parking in the dark and noticing it. The TSB was wrong. Not for our car model, dealer made a mistake.

 

Genwon or Genpu?

 

Genpu

 

Haven't updated this in a while. Just got front brakes done. Discovered if you buy the OEM brake pads from the dealer in CA, they come with a lifetime replacement warranty. Once they wear out, just cruise to the dealer, show receipt, get new pads @ no cost.

I had the dealer replace them too while I was there getting a free oil change. After the brake job, it first appeared like they fuxored something up pretty bad with the install. Whining of brakes with foot off the brake pedal at low and mid speeds. Press foot on brake, sound goes away. In the rain, no sound.

Turned out to just be some sort of weird glaze on the new rotors/pads. I'm assuming the tech probably forgot to remove any grease on the pads/rotors and the residue just had to be worn off. 1 month into the new brakes and no sound during any type of braking/non-braking. I had the car back and forth to the dealer for them to troubleshoot it, but everything checked out OK.

I've had so many "non-issues" with this car, I'm beginning to question my sanity.

Just purchased a cheap chineasy head unit replacement (Eonon GA6163f, newly released and on sale for $288 w/free back up camera) along with the PAC module for Bose to avoid splicing RCAs as the new Eonon unit w/Bose still requires harness modification.

I've had some issues finding specific images of the PAC module connected to the Eonon unit with canbus etc. So, I think its going to be a trick for me to figure it out given I've never installed a stereo in my life. I've probably sifted through 50 to 60 threads on forums/youtube videos etc. regarding the Eonon units and install, but none of them cover using a PAC and if the PAC itself needs to be modified, in detail. Mazdaspeed owners mostly just say to use it as it makes life easier (no splicing in RCAs) but I've read some people having to splice the stock amp remote wire and then others don't even mention it (say it just hooks right up). After receiving the new stereo and putting the harnesses next to each other, I cannot see how I'm not going to need to splice tons of wires to get the pack integrated correctly.

I may create a new audio thread to obtain help, or attempt to figure it out myself and post a walkthrough (as there seems to be a gap with threads actually SHOWING a PAC hooked up in action with an Eonon unit.

If you have any correct/accurate tips and/or images though, please toss them my way. I'm doing the install tonight.

 

Did you replace rotors, or turn them at all? How was their thickness/condition etc? My car has squealed a few times recently, making me think I'm going to need brakes soon, probably fronts.

Does the dealer make you return the old pads to get new? Do they only give you new ones if you pay them to install them?

 

I replaced the rotors with new OEM. After the noises developed the new ones were inspected with a dial gage/fixture for run-out and thickness tolerances. They passed.

I'm not sure if I'll have to return the old pads per se, but they said that I just bring my receipt and can get new pads. I'd assume this is with the expectation that they do the labor @ $90/hr. Which, to me is fine as they are pretty convenient for me and always give me a loaner car (something a regular mechanic wont do). The pads are what kill the wallet at close to $200 (give or take) for the stockers, so I was pretty stoked to hear they'll be free from here on out.

 

...or you can buy several different comparable (or better) aftermarket pads for ~$80-100.

 

I thought a lot of folks liked the OEM's, esp. their bite? What pads are you referring to, and for what use - DD only or occasional track?

 

Stoptech Street Performance pads (from what I remember) were very similar to the OEM pads in bite and modulation and cost $80. I even tracked the car on them once (on sticky street tires) and they held up reasonably well for a street pad (though I wouldn't buy them specifically with tracking in mind).

The Hawk HPS (while lacking some of the bite of the OEMs) is also a respectable street pad. The extra bite that the OEMs offered over them was not worth spending twice the money, IMO.

I'm currently using Carbotech 1521s for the street, and while not cheap (I'm using them more for their rotor-sharing capabilities with my Carbotech XP12 track pads), I believe they're still a little cheaper than the OEM pads.

I just think the OEMs cost significantly more than they're worth.

 

I agree and the fact that they are free from here on out is the ONLY reason I ended up allowing the dealer to put them in. The trade-off between free pads and paying the dealer for the install or buying cheaper pads and doing them myself was convenience. I will probably spend the cost of new pads with time/labor that I would just having the dealer do it with minimal interruption to my life.

I do like the feel of the stock pads though. They seem to have also solved the "squeellyness" of them as these new ones don't squeal like my last stockers did. They still dust like crazy though.

 

Yeah that's another thing that sucks about the stock pads. There is no need for them to produce that much dust relative to their stopping power... Only pads I've ever used on this car that dusted more were track-only pads.

 

My stockers squeal but only in the winter.

 

I've heard about the Carbotech route, and it's what I plan to do when tracking the car, especially in light of the compatibility of the whole line of pads on the same rotors due to the identical bedding-in characteristics regarding the pads conditioning the rotors. As I dial in the suspension/damping/tire selection, I'll also need to find the correct combination of Carbotechs that effectively gives me the braking bias I desire. Maybe 10s/8s or 12s/10s.

Ever tried Carbotechs, @Slug? 1521s for daily use, or otherwise?

 

Are they "newish?" I was surprised that mine aren't. But I'm liking less noise now
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I haven't, but they were on my list of possibles as were all the others previously mentioned.

 

My hawk pads were squealing like a stuck pig for a little while after they broke in. I can't remember who it was but someone recommended this red stuff that goes on the back of the pads called Disk Brake Quiet that made them completely silent. Found it at O'Reilly for reasonably cheap, might be worth looking into if you're still having problems.

Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk

 

Not sure if facetious so straight answer. 67k miles including 2 trips to the Dragon, though only one run at 85+% attack. as I mentioned, I suspect that this year's squeal is actually warning squeal. I neglected to look when I went to winters this year... it might be a necessity before this year's trip to the Dragon. So I'm starting to figure out which way I want to go.

 

12 bucks



Like all permatex products, worth every penny. Shut my brakes up real quick. Also you might want to inspect the pads, is the channel filled with crap? Do the edges have crap building up on them?