StreetSpeed’s DD 500+ MS6 Build

Well it shows in the pic above 170% over stock so if stock is 400tq then I think that would be in the ball park of 680tq

 

I was more curious about HP. I read somewhere that they didn't provide specific numbers so I was just curious.

That is what is in the car I bought. I'm sure it can hold 500. Hopefully.

 

Stock clutch holding power or stock motor torque?

 

Well the pamphlet says stock HP not torque...but it would make sense that'd it'd be "over stock clutch HP rating" however it does say call rep for actual numbers for your platform. I read that pamphlet as here's all this marketing BS, call us if you want real numbers

 

Most Clutches are rated for tq anyways. HP is just a function of torque.
HP= (tq x rpm)/5252

But to give you an idea, the CM850 has held upwards of 1000whp on a speed. Issue being the cars making that power are spinning to 9k+ rpm and the 8.25" flywheel is too large to be spinning that fast and those cars had the flywheel bolts shear off at high rpm. They're now running a 7.25" triple disc without any issue and making north of 1200whp no issue (Bryce and Justin/freek)

 

So my 7.25" at 5-600whp should be very safe spinning to about 7500-7800 then. Thanks for the input Sho and we are still going to have to meet up sometime down there in Louisville!

 

Every day lately has felt like Christmas lol So excited to be building my speed 6 right and with proven quality parts! Got my DM tmm and my AN fittings for the returnless setup.


I didn't realize how beefy and thick the plates for the Damond mounts really are! Seems like veryy high quality to me as they use about 1/4 - 5/16" plates.
Damond Motorsports FTW!!

 

Got some good news today! Valve guides are all good so I can just have new valves installed. They said it was going to be $175 for cleaning the head, disassembly, and reassembly and set. Not too bad but I got the head in my garage now to port (gasket match) my exhaust side. Then the whole head will be gasket matched and +1 mm valves. More parts on the way and showing up every day so stay tuned

 

STRONG word of advice, make sure your shop knows what they are doing with the MZR head. You do not shim the cam buckets, so the valves either have to be precision tipped to the correct valve lash or you need to order new buckets for any buckets that are out of spec. Most valves will come too long from the factory, so you will throw misfire codes non stop if you don’t tip them.


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Well idk what they did last time they set it up but I do know that I never had a misfire code. It all worked great until I smashed all their hard work lol

 

Received my aux fuel line, front wheel bearings, and one of the two front axles. She is going to be a new car this time around for sure. Just hoping it all comes put worth the money and I finally get to enjoy all the hard work.

I wanted to clean up my wiring harnesses as they are very nasty so I am going to use maf cleaner and spray the wiring covers down and then tape them up with new clean tape I need to do the Split Second wiring as well before I tape everything up. Haven't had nearly enough time to work on it but hopefully in the next couple weeks I can make some good progress!

 

Decided to get a start at porting my exhaust side of my head and I cannot believe how much there is there to remove!

This is an idea of how much is being removed to just gasket match it. This is obviously not the finished product but just to give an idea to anyone who would be porting their own head in the future.

 

Port work is coming along but haven't had the time to do as much as I would've liked. I also don't have a dremel tool with a long enough shank to hardly get into the runners all the way. Ordered some off Amazon that should be here before long.


Still getting my valve situation figured out. My builder said if I use him to order the valves I could have custom valves cut for probably $20-25 a valve. He says that would just take longer compared to getting valves that are already cut.
I should find out tomorrow which route I will be taking. If it will be too long I might just buy new valves guides and seals from edge and be done with it

 

Turns out those valves would be 600-700 plus a couple hundred to install and set valve lash and whatever else. I have decided that port matching a factory head is a better option as it will basically be $200 vs $800-$1k. I will be saving a lot of money this way and keeping my build a bit more simple. My goals don't need bigger valves so I feel like this is a good choice.

Just got my 6" porting double cut bits in the mail so here we go I guess

 

Bowl work, gasket match the hot side, roll the edges on the cold side and call it good.
That plus cams is good enough for 550 or more to the wheels, guaranteed.

 

I spoke with @Bigelow and he says he is willing to part with a stock head he has so I will hopefully be receiving that before too long.

In the meantime I am still cleaning up the engine bay when I have time between work and school. I have been getting parts for the car like crazy and basically a box or two a day lol I have now got my bigger fmic setup with new piping, Split Second Controller, N2mb wotbox, and t-case caps. The ic stuff came from siliconeintakes.com and the other stuff from Graveyard Performance.

Ordering the turbo soon and decided to go top mount but try the cheaper duratec cast log mani for now. I'll be glad I'm not fighting stock location stuff later on as I hate it with a passion.

I purchased new axles and wheel bearings/hubs from rock auto that will be going on as well in the front. Still awaiting my rear diff mount, ss clutch line, and vvt stuff from Edge. More pics of all the new stuff to come

 

This sort of just..... happened but after cutting off the threaded studs that were everywhere in the engine bay, I painted it lol It was supposed to only be to touch up the spots of bare metal from cutting the studs out but got carried away haha




Wiring will be coated with new electric tape and I am also most likely replacing the upper strut tower plates as they are rusted looking and ugly so I didn't worry about that stuff too much.

Also decided to paint my steering knuckles as well.


Hopefully my car stays halfway clean this time around as it seems to be hard with a lowered car to get in behind the wheels on everything.

I will be pressing new wheel bearings in soon and then tie rods inner and outer.

Here are some more pics pf the goodies I have gotten lately. I never realized how YUUGGEE a 44mm wastegate is! Lol Can't wait to hear it in action!!

 

Once everything is clean, its much easier to keep clean!! Looks good with the fresh paint...like new

 

I sure hope so! It was beyond filthy and I was ashamed of it so hopefully this time around is much different!

 

Well chipped away a bit more today and got my new wheel bearings and hubs pressed in and installed new inner and outer tie rods as well. I am really glad I painted the steering knuckle assembly as it looks much better imo!

Ran bearings in and then pressed the frozen hubs in. All went smooth and I am hoping they give me a great ride.