Turbo replacement question...

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3/6 Engine' started by stg_ms3, Feb 4, 2017.

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  1. stg_ms3

    stg_ms3 Greenie Member

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    So my turbo has begun smoking. I am looking at getting a bnr s4 and just doing a basic "build" for now because the wife is pregnant and will be off work soon. Basically what I am asking is what will I need to keep this cost friendly, but safe for the engine? I already have a jbr power path stage 2 intake, hpfp internals, cobb ap v3, and a cp-e 3" cat back.

    Here is what I am thinking so far:
    - BNR S4 (with 3 bar map, boost controller, etc)
    -RMM
    -OCC
    -BPV
    -Catless DP
    -FMIC or TMIC
    -New spark plugs.
    -EGR delete since I'm there
    -re-tune

    Any suggestions? Am I missing anything? Thanks in advance.
     
  2. SharksInSpace

    SharksInSpace Planets and shit. Silver Member

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    Just the basic JBR intake? Might want to consider going to 3/3.5". As far as I know, without having done a swap myself, the rest of your list looks good.
     
    SharksInSpace, via a mobile device, Feb 4, 2017
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  3. neganox

    neganox Feline Führer Moderator Platinum Member

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    HP goals? Planning for aux fueling of any sort?
     
  4. stg_ms3

    stg_ms3 Greenie Member

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    Its the SRI and TIP, i believe its 3" already
    [doublepost=1486246302][/doublepost]
    Hoping for 325/325 on 94, if I can get more hp/tq then that safely that'd be great. In the future i want to go BT, build the engine, and then would probably do aux fueling.
     
  5. Sho

    Sho Silver Member

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    Add injector Seals to the list if you haven't done those yet.
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Feb 4, 2017
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  6. stg_ms3

    stg_ms3 Greenie Member

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    Good idea, do you need a tool to remove/install? I doubt my injector cup tools for Volvo diesel engines will work haha.
     
  7. Redline

    Redline I done fucked up for the last time. BANNED Greenie Member

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    This is good prevention, but you may want to do a leakdown test, or a visual inspection first because it may be unnecessary. It IS great peace of mind, but I'm on stock seals @ 390/385 at 72k miles, and they're holding up fine. Just my .02.
     
  8. SharksInSpace

    SharksInSpace Planets and shit. Silver Member

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    My understanding is that the seals are like HPFP....they work until they don't, and fail without warning. Better to just do them and be sure, especially if you're planning to bust open the IM anyway to do a valve cleaning or something (or a visual inspection? If you're going so far as to pull injectors and put eyes on the OEM seals, just put in upgraded ones while everything is apart and then you KNOW you're good for many more miles).
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2017
    SharksInSpace, via a mobile device, Feb 5, 2017
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  9. stg_ms3

    stg_ms3 Greenie Member

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    I will probably do a leakdown test and compression test while doing everything, since the car will be down i might as well put new seals in.

    A valve cleaning is a great idea, i don't know why i didn't think of that.
     
  10. Redline

    Redline I done fucked up for the last time. BANNED Greenie Member

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    Yeah, definitely do the OCC too when you clean valves/replace seals, if you don't have one already. It is literally at least 10x easier to get a hose onto the PCV with the IM off. I know folks who have literally spent HOURS trying to do just that one step with the IM on; it takes <30 seconds to remove the old hose/replace it with the new one with the IM off.
     
  11. stg_ms3

    stg_ms3 Greenie Member

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    Damond motorsports stage 1 OCC is on the list!
     
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