Building for the road course...again

Just gonna leave this here for y’all.

test was done cold. This is also my first time doing a leakdown test but I did it multiple times rotating the engine to confirm consistency.

 

Did you find the source of the leak down? Such as hearing air in the exhaust, crankcase, or intake? Maybe do a block test and make sure you didn't pop a head gasket?

 

Your only in moderate don't see a problem lol

 

One of the cylinders for sure sounds like it’s leaking out the intake. I can hear it across the entire intake down to the filter.

the other cylinder is either leaking out the exhaust or head gasket. I couldn’t tell for sure

Warmed up it’s probably not terrible lol.

This would explain my low power numbers though

 

Gotta drain the oil still. Drain trans fluid. Pull axles. And disconnect the header.
Otherwise it’s ready to go. Not bad for 2 hours of work



wish I had better lighting. It’s getting cold now so these shitty little work lights the batteries die real quick. I only have 2 left right now lol damn.

it was 21f tonight. Not too bad!

 

Just get a plug in light?

 

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ridgid-18v-hybrid-folding-panel-light-tool-only/1001011803?eid=PS_GOOGLE_D00 - E-Comm_GGL_Shopping_PLA_EN_All Products_All Products__PRODUCT_GROUP_pla-294357661102&gclid=Cj0KCQiAvqGcBhCJARIsAFQ5ke5kxVFrX9YItaHXQLy--x516153P3wZciVxNQ4Wjl8zEcZKmPozWzoaArGfEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Definitely, I've been eyeing one of the Ridgid work light they're great can be tripod mounted and plug into and extension cord if you don't want a battery

 

Yea something like this would be good. Battery or plug in. I’ve been looking at a few things similar to this

 

Picked myself up a little treat. Local was selling an rsx type s head with BC stage 2 cams and BC valve train.
The cams are worth around $1500cad. The head is worth a ton too as this casting flows the best outta all the k20’s in North America


When I went to meet with the guy I had a feeling I’d notice something. Shit has stock valve train which is no fucking good for cams of this size. I think his mechanic fucked him but unsure. Either way the price I paid is OK. I did talk him down a bit during meet up because I noticed the valve train was stock. The deal is still worth because this head alone is worth $600. Not bad lol

i have super tech titanium valve train on order. The plan is to pull my head off. If the cylinders look nice I have a local guy who will deck the head and cut the valves. I’ll then assemble it with these cams and my super tech valve train.

I’ll then put this rsx head back together with stock shit and sell it.

I could bolt the head to my block but that requires some modifications to my intake manifold and I just don’t wanna fuck with that.
I’ll run my stock block with built head for 2023. Save my forged motor for boost

 

Are the Super tech springs a dual spring setup?

 

It is a dual spring setup yup. Titanium retainers.
https://www.kseriesparts.com/SUP-SPRK-H1021D.html

Fun fact, this rsx head comes factory with dual exhaust valve springs. These engines were good to 8800rpm from factory, not the same as my civic k20. Pretty cool

These cams flowed well to 8800rpm on the previous owners car. He had the dyno graph and everything. That’s pretty sweet. He was using the oem rsx intake manifold which is junk, and he was using a junk warm air intake.

On my car I should be able to hit that sweet sweet 9k rpm with these cams…and actually still make some power up there.

with boost BC suggests 9500rpm(based on their dyno graph).
I’ll finally have my high revving Honda. Fuck yes

 

9500? Why not see if you can make it an even 10k rpms?

Seeing your build makes me want to find an old 89-91 Prelude like I used to own and do a K swap to it

 

So the reason I’m capping it at ~9500 is just due to the weight of the rotating assembly. I have good rods and pistons but they are not “the best” rods and pistons. They have weight and spinning that too 10k is probably way too much.

this said I’ll definitely see how she’s going and if everything feels right…then maybe lol. This is why I kept the k20 vs a k24 after all

 

This crank pulley bolt is TOTALLY fucking me. Shit won’t budge. Tried my Milwaukee. Nothing. Tried a corded gun and it started smoking on me.

Tried my milwaukee with freshly charged battery. Nothing. I only have a milwaukee mid torque so that’s probably no good. Apparently this is common on these engines. This bolt is tight as fuck.

 

MAP Gas or Oxyacetylene torch the crank bolt.

 

Extensions and a six foot piece of pipe on the breaker bar

 

Princess auto has a 39" bar hasnt failed me yet!

 

Apparently the problem with this is it’ll melt shit, crank seal possible. I thought about it lol

 

I need this lol. It’s just a shit place to try and get any leverage but yea I should go pick that up lol. These bolts are known to be ridiculous

 

Worked on a honda j35, yeah different engine but the crank bolt was a bitch as well. Cousin let me borrow this socket and I was able to ugga dugga it out easily.