How-To: Damond Focus ST Manifold Install!!!

Alright, guys...here it is. Bare with me, it's a work in progress. Let's get right to it then! First off, buy this: https://damondmotorsports.com/products/mazdaspeed6-st-manifold-adapter-kit?variant=25077138184
DO NOT BUY THE THROTTLE BODY SPACER!!!!!!
There's no room for it. However, DO buy the throttle body harness extension and the modified manifold. It will make your life easier.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

Coldpipe:
- 90 degree silicon reducer, 2.75"x2.5", $20 http://www.siliconeintakes.com/bending-reducer/reducer-elbow-p-962.html
-30 degree 2.5" pipe, salvaged from cx fmic kit
-45 degree coupler, 2.5", $17 http://www.siliconeintakes.com/turbocharger-part/silicone-45-p-24.html
-130ish degree J pipe, 2.5", salvaged from cx fmic kit
- weld-on BOV flange. I couldn't find a stock one, so I ended up buying a Tial and having a friend weld the flange to my hotpipe. If you know where to find a stock one, let me know so I can update this thread.
Tools:
-3/8" drive ratchet
- 3" and 6" extensions, longer ones if you can
- 8mm, 10mm, 12mm sockets
- Knife
- Flat head screwdriver
- Xacto knife

Supplies:
- JB PlasticWeld, $8 at your local hardware/auto parts store http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N2548_-1_-1&pt=N2548&ppt=C2392
- An ass ton of clamps! From 1/2" diameter worm drives for vacuum lines to 3" t bolts for the coldpipe
- Assorted vacuum caps
*DISCLAIMER* This one is optional, but you'll have to cut the stock one out of the stock brake booster line and splice it in (which I did, not sure if this one is a viable alternative, but it's worth trying).
- Check valve, 5/16" (qty 2 if running a bpv/bov that was a PITA to get to close at idle, i.e. the tial Q and QR), $9 on amazon
- Air hose repair kit,qty 2, $4/ea, for if you reuse the factory check valve, https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-1-4-in-Hose-Repair-Kit/4640387
- Gasket Material, $27 at your local auto parts store, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...468&categoryRedirect=N0488&pt=N0488&ppt=C1984

I think that's it for now... work in progress, so if I think of anything while I go through this process again this weekend, I'll update this thread.



I'm not going to teach you how to remove your stock intake manifold. If you're doing this install, you should either know how to pull it, or have done it in the past for one reason or another. The purpose of this how-to is to help those that seem intimidated by this install, even though it really isn't that bad.
There are a few things you"ll have to do either prior to or during this install: delete your EGR, do the coolant bypass mod on your throttle body(may not be necessary, but you're on your own extending the coolant hoses to the new tb location) and install a fmic(duh).

So the whole thing is really straight forward, you just have to do some prep work ahead of time. the kit comes with a sound symposer block off plate/vacuum block. I used this to run new vacuum lines to the firewall, brake booster, and bov. I highly recommend you put the vacuum block together--with the brass elbows facing this way--and bolt it to the manifold prior to install. *insert pics here* Actually, it's an extremely tight space in there with the manifold bolted in, so I suggest installing everything to the manifold prior to install. By everything, I mean the MAP sensor, dipstick bracket(still haven't figured out how to make that work), throttle body, vacuum cap *pic by tb* and the quick connect included in the kit with the check valve already installed. The kit also comes with a quick connect adapter so you can plumb back into the pcv if you aren't running an OCC. <---------*Now is a good time to install one. Thank me later*
Installing the MAP sensor is tricky, or at least it was on my first manifold and I ended up stripping the hole. Run the bolt through the sonsor, barely guide it into the manifold, and let the bolt pull it down and seat it. *pics*
During this prep phase, you also want to use the PlasticWeld to seal the seam between to two pieces of the manifold as an added precaution. My first manifold leaked from this seam *pics of the goop*

Now, the roll of gasket material is for the adapter plate. Not sure it's necessary, but fuck it. Set the head side of the adapter plate down on the material, outline it and cut it out *pics of whatever* Tape around the edge to make sure it doesn't move and cut out the runners and bolt holes. *moar pics*

Lots of prep time, right? Maybe a good chance to soak your valves in B-12 so you can clean them?????????


Now, your prepped manifold should look like this: *pic of tada!* Time for the hard part...
Piece your coldpipe together like this: *piczzzzz* The oil filter housing will be a MAJOR pain in the dick. there is NOT enough clearance for the tb, you just gotta fight it to get it on. have a clamp already on the coldpipe for the tb to 90 degree reducer and be mindful of clamp location and direction. It'll be a pain in the ass to get to it to tighten it, so make sure it's somewhere you can reach. Once the coldpipe is bolted to the tb, you can bolt the mani to the head. Run your hoses to your bpv and such *pics of goodies*, boost leak test and you're done!

Input is accepted and pictures will go up as I go back through this tomorrow. I promise. If I forget anything I used or needed, I'll update and link it as well.

 

Glad to see more guys using this option. Just an fyi, you can fit the tb spacer if you accomodate for it with your piping. I have it on my car with the mani.

 

Intrested to see the pictures of the cold pipe for the front mount. I was able to fit the tb on with the meth spacer installed. What issue did you run into when you tried to install the plate? I still dont know how to make the dipstick mount work.

 

You shouldn't need gasket material for the spacer->FoST IM side, but a gasket should be used between the spacer and the head.

 

I didn't even try to fit the tb spacer, I can barely fit the clamp past the filter housing. Also, the gasket material is for between the head and adapter plate, not manifold and adapter plate

 

Nice job! Can't wait to see some pictures

 

Agreed. I ran the TB spacer with a couple of nozzles for months before switching to PI.

 

Pics seem to be missing...?

 

Pics?

 

http://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/3797/

Not a how to, but does have pics of the install by @Mastermind46;

crapatalk, yes it sucks for free.

 

Here's where to find a stock flange. http://www.awdmotorsports.com/product_p/TS-1G-BOV.htm We use the same flange as a talon. Also you can contact matt at HTP for a flange.

 

any pictures and what did y'all do for the intercooler and cold side?