Front Control Arm Replacement

UPDATED**
With my build going on I figured I would attempt to help others who may come to the task of replacing their control arms. I am by no means an expert and am simply helping give insight to what difficulties I faced and how to get the job done.

Firstly I will say the front upper control arms are in my opinion the easiest by far, then the lower forward facing, and lastly the most difficult are for sure the rear facing lowers considering you have to lower your subframe a bit and pry to get the bolts past the car frame.

UPPER CONTROL ARMS:

Start by jacking up the car and securing with some good jack stand. Go ahead and use a pickle fork set for the ball joints as it is much easier with proper tools. Bust the nut loose (im pretty sure was a 19mm I used) and get ball joint separated from the steering knuckle.

Then, remove the (2) 14mm bolts holding the control arm on. A ratcheting wrench helps out as there isn’t much room for a socket. Replace in reverse leaving bolts loose.

(My coilover is out but this gives you the idea anyway) Preload suspension by jacking it up from center of the axle nut until it measures close to 15 7/8” to the fender well. Tighten bolts to spec, drop it down, and you’re done!


TQ Specs:
14mm bolts- 40ft/lbs
Ball Joint Nut - 80ft/lbs

LOWER FORWARD FACING ARM:

This arm will have 3 bolts, 2 being 17mm and the ball joint nut being somewhat large at I think 21mm but could be a little different. After removing ball joint nut, separate ball joint from the steering knuckle.

Remove 17mm bolt holding strut/coilover to the control arm, then lastly remove the bolt which is somewhat hidden in the subframe.
Replace arm and follow same procedure as above for preloading suspension.

TQ Specs:
frame bolt- 81ft/lbs + 90*
Center bolt- 76ft/lbs
Ball joint nut- 148ft/lbs

LOWER REAR FACING ARM:

There should be only a 17mm bolt and a ball joint nut holding this one in, but the sub frame MUST be dropped a little to pull the bolt out. Remove nut from ball joint and separate ball joint from the steering knuckle with your pickle fork.

Loosen subframe and let it drop in the rear as far as it will go by removing the the (2) 17mm bolts and the nut for the subframe, which I believe is 19mm. This is the bracket you are looking for.

Once it is dropped down you will have to pry it down further to clear the car frame and get the bolt holding in the control arm out.

(Doing this 100% proper, you would probably mark the steering shaft and undo it before dropping the subframe, but I just used a pry bar to help bring it down instead)

Once the bolt is out round 2 begins! I don’t drink, but those who do will probably be tipping back a beverage of choice right about now. Shove pry bar between subframe, line up the new control arm and begin prying it down as you shove the bolt back in.

Tighten subframe back up tightly and keep control arm loose. Preload suspension to 15 7/8” and tighten the bolt and ball joint nut down to spec!

TQ Specs:
Frame bolt- 81ft/lbs + 90*
Ball joint nut- 148ft/lbs
****** TQ Specs are what I found but readers should verify or follow mine at your own risk as I am not a professional by any means! *******
If anyone has anything to add feel free as I am just making this to help newer people begin working on their own cars with confidence and having the info on MSO they need to do so.

 

You should add the tq specs to your write up.

Nice job otherwise.

 

I actually have some but was afraid to misinform so didn’t add it. I will though I suppose.

 

Just add a note to verify specs, at least you'll give folks an idea of what range tq wrench to use.

IIRC most of this platforms tq specs on suspension arms are between 35-65 or 85-115ft/lbs depending on the hardware/bushing being torqued.

 

Curious to know if there is a consensus on the lifespan of the MS6 lower arms. Interwebs say 100ooomi. I feel they are more robust a design compared to what usually is found on other cars and dont hear about anyone really needing these regularly. Anything I have found is usually regarding the Mazda TSB fix.

 

The arms don't go bad it's the bushings that wear out

 

A lot of lifespan also depends on proper install. If the bushings weren't installed with preload then they will wear out way faster.