resurrecting my old MS3

also, i did confirm that the alternator was the culprit to my starting issues. apparently there's something in the pulley that allows it to turn in reverse, but it was locked up solid when trying to spin in the direction of the belt.

Thanks to @Easter Bunny for having me look at it again.

 

Too late now but when I was looking at it I thought it would be easier to get from the bottom. The dealer used a lift but did take it out from the bottom

 

ok, need someone to doublecheck to make sure i'm not crazy.

if i run the car up to temp and then shut it off, the fuel pressure relief valve should build pressure no? looks like i may need to replace mine. can someone review this log and let me know?

 

i had an old spare from a friend. looks to have cleared it up. pressure now rises after the car is shut off.

 

Finally got some plates.

Took it for a spin and seems I blew a power steering line. Also have a few DTCs I need to get to solving.


But damn,... it's snappy! Definitely had a good grin going for a few hours

 

Congrats on getting back on the road!

What codes are you throwing?

 

P2009 - I believe it's because of VCTS delete and all i need to do is uncheck in ATR?
P0098 - i need to double check that the CS 3.5 BAR MAP is connected. i assume it is since the car ran great.
U2064 - probably tied to another code.
U2023 - read in the service manual it may be related to EHPAS control module?

 

Ok, yeah. If you don't have VTCS connected then that will pop a code and obviously you can ignore it since you know the cause; AP or VersaTune can disable it. 2064 is, as assumed, seemingly just some sort of stupid "hey dummy, I heard you like throwing codes so here's a code to tell you you're throwing a code while you're throwing codes" Xzibit Pimp My Ride type thing. It'll trip even if your primary DTC is just for lack of TPMS. I'm not familiar with the other two but I assume your tune is adjusted for the 3.5bar MAP? I wouldn't think it'd run that well (or at all?) if it was off, but I don't know for sure.

 

yes, i set the scalars for the MAP in ATR. not sure if that's a one and done type thing, or just to get you off the ground. i do plan on getting a pro-tune, but need to iron out a bunch of kinks before I start going down that path.

 

There have been some issues with the CS MAP; it's possible you got a dud.

 

If you ha e the vtcs module you can plug it in without connecting it to the rod and you won't get a cel

 

The little black box that sits on top of the manifold, or the vacuum controlled plunger that sits on the right of the manifold?

I have the plunger connected to the rod and switch sensor, but no vacuum connected to it.

 

Ok Gents time for an update. I've been making decent progress and the car is on the road just needing an inspection. It had failed because of the CELs mentioned before, and then the day after i fixed that, they muffler pipe came separated from the Catalytic converter mounting plate. Kind or a clean break at the weld bead, but the muffler shop still needed to cut out the old and weld in a new spring cup assembly...

anyways, so issues along the way and how I fixed them.

• installed OCC
• Reverse lights weren't working
  • used DVM to verify no voltage flowing to backup lights
  • replaced bulbs with JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright that are in the review parts thread here.
  • pulled old reverse switch out and bench tested it. it was good. put it back in and i guess its an alignment issue. once i got it reinstalled and the car back on the ground, everything worked great.
• blew the power steering pressure line
  • replaced with RockAuto SUNSONG 3404189
• Had a radiator fan that wasn't turning on when car was at temp
  • wanted to keep the original shroud and bought SPECTRA PREMIUM CF21003 from RockAuto
  • pretty close to a drop in replacement. once it was mounted to the shroud, it was fine
• P2009
  • as mentioned above by @Easter Bunny , plugged in the little solenoid that came off the black chamber that sits on top of the intake manifold.
• P0098
  • @SharksInSpace was correct. I diagnosed this down to being a bad MAP sensor as that's where the boosted air temp is.
• got 4 new tires (POTENZA RE-71R (225/40R18)) mounted and balanced, 4 wheel alignment and drove to NH for the weekend.
  • had to put some miles on to get all the other monitors ready for inspection this week.

• New issue has presented itself
  • this started prior to the new tires, but after I replaced the transmission fluid
  • when I'm at full lock it's the loudest, but the car will groan while I'm turning, but only if I'm not holding in the clutch
    • see Video
  • I have a torn boot on the drivers side and plan to replace the drivers side axle
  • I suspected it was the CV joint, and it does make some noise if turned while jacked in the air
  • what I'm questioning is why it only happens when the clutch is disengaged. should I be looking at LSD?

 

dude, this is impressive trying to get this thing going!! also great how-to for the alternator!!!