I bought a 2007 MS3 from a car action, the car has all the supporting mods needed to increase boost and fuel (corksport turbo, corksport HPFP internals, Front mount intercooler, Corksport short ram intake, Cobb tranny mount, better engine mounts, short shifter, tune, proxes tires on front, and among other things) I don't have a boost gauge to see how much boost is it running (the car came with a triple pod for Guages) but someone took them out. So I tried to see how much boost is it running with Torque App and a cheap Obd2 scanner and it maxed at 25 psi peak, is this too much for a stock motor? Or maybe torque is not reading correctly? Or something is not controlling boost correctly? The car is a blast to drive, when boost kicks in, but in afraid to blow my engine up. What do you guys think?
And it seems to have a "new engine" because there was a mark that reads "107,000 mi" on top of the engine, the car has 170k and I don't think a original motor can handle that abuse for a long time. I did a compression test and it were Cylinder 4: 208psi Cylinder 3: 193 Cylinder 2: 188 Cylinder 1: 200 Also did a leak down test and get very good numbers, no more than 17% on all cylinders.
The concern is that you have no idea about what is "actually" happening beyond those pressure numbers you quoted. No HPFP readings, no AFR during a pull, no LTFT, etc etc. So you know you have a modified car, but nothing else. No idea if it needs E-85 in the tank or not. Nothing.
Congratulations on your purchase. If you are concerned about boost alone you will be shocked when... not if the engine fails. You need to spend more money now on either a Access Port, or at least Versatune free & a proper cable on a laptop. Logging is the only way to verify all parameters you will need. Especially if you want help here. Logs are the only way others can see your engine data and make informed opinions for your questions.
https://www.versatuner.com/ Before you go down the Versatune rabbit hole, which I did. It works good. But when you think of ALL the associated costs involved, it's a wash either way with versa vs AP. Because in the end you WILL be changing OTS tunes to match your current build list. You need the expensive package deal to modify OTS tune and then doesn't matter which direction to go. If you have a laptop, want a chance to get cheapest logs, buy the cable and try it... If in the end you are going to tune...Well this answer might help. I have Versatune full on a 3 and AP on 6.
Welcome to mso, stock turbo 25 is too much only because the turbo is inefficient way to hot but heat gun at that point. That being said the stock block can take 25psi no worries there. Personally I would stay away form versatune some people like it but most don't, a few of our very experienced members and self tuners have actually gone back to accessport because issues with the software. A dealership may be able to tell you if your Ecu is tuned or not, but 25 is certainly high (stock boost is (14-16ish depending on conditions) so if it's higher than that I have two questions: is it tuned to do that, if it's not what's causing it to overboost
If it’s got a FMIC and stickies, I’m gonna go out on a limb and say it’s probably not stock turbo. Can you take a picture of the turbo? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ha you're correct I re read the initial post it has a CS turbo. So yes it's probably tuned for 25 psi
To OP — 25 psi is fine. However, with your level of mods, you NEED a COBB Accessport or Versatune. While you want to check your current status to make sure the tune is OK, your setup is high maintenance and you need to keep an eye on your vitals at all times. FMICs are extremely fickle and are prone to developing boost leaks every now and then. You need to watch fuel trims, boost, AFR, etc. The ability to get a custom tune is an added bonus. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm very positive that it's tuned, the turbo is a CST4 Corksport , and the car has launch control and no lift shiftting, also one day I accidentally activate something like a valet parking. So, I found this boost controller solenoid with the top broken, and also the connector from ecu was making poor connection, it has 3 ports used so it is tuned. What would happen if the boost controller solenoid wasn't plugged in?
If the boost controller isn't plugged in then it "should" just run on spring pressure. If it's broken and things are passing through internally that's a different issue. Sadly without knowing what it's tune for its hard to say exactly what it should be hitting Also don't know what you're doing with the quotes @Ivanshinoda but it keeps putting your message in the quotes (2/3) make sure you type after the [/quote] I've gone ahead and dices them for you. Also there's a +quote button to quote multiple ones at once (don't think it shows up on tapafail)
Another question, at WOT and at 25psi the AFRs are 9.23 or something like that and then at idle it goes to 14.xx, is this good right? What I mean, is it safe to do pulls?
The only way to know if it’s safe to do pulls is to data log and read the logs. Those AFRs are normal. Our platform likes to run a bit rich. HOWEVER — You need to check your fuel trims to be sure everything is buttoned up tight. I honestly don’t know a single person that has NOT broken a nipple off the OEM EBCS. Everyone just disconnects it and uses a Grimmspeed or similar EBCS. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a Tactrix cable from my last Impreza, I will give it a shot to see if it works on Versatuner software and do the log.
