Timing chain noise?

I’ve attached a video of a noise I would imagine sounds like a chain clanking noise. Whenever my car is cooled down it doesn’t really make the noise until it gets up to operating temp or I give it some revs. It’s a 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 2.3L Turbo 155k miles and I’m honestly not sure if it’s ever been changed and from what I’ve heard these cars are notorious for stretched timing chains.I’ve owned it for a few weeks and when I purchased it I immediately changed the oil and feel like that’s when I started hearing the sound but then again I could be wrong and it’s been making the noise the whole time. If anyone can elaborate on what it sounds like I’d surely appreciate you. Thank you

 

Do you have a start up video? Chain slap is mainly noticable at start up and certain at cold start.

I wouldn't drive the car. Take off the valve cover and spin the crank to put the cams in CYLINDER 1 TDC and check chain tension. See the link to VVT in my signature. That's my how to. 100% need to properly diagnose before you drive again, especially if you think it is VVT. You will blow the motor.

 

It doesn’t make any noises when I start it up. It’s not until it get warmed up a little I start hearing as you do in the video. I opened my oil cap and I was able to push down on the chain and if I lift up I feel like I could take it off the gear. I’m currently not driving or gonna drive it I have a turbo to replace as well. I’m wondering if when the motor heats up the chain stretches or the tensioners does something I’m not entirely sure. I think I’m gonna pull the valve cover and do what u said with inspecting the VVT. I guess my question back to you is. Is it plausible to think one of my tensioners is bad or maybe when the metals of the chain heat up with the car the chain could stretch? Like I said when the car cools completely down the noise is gone. I’m planning on buying a new timing system with the VVT, sprockets, tensioners…ect. I just know how important the timing components are and i really need a reliable car.Thank you for your input!

 

I think before making any assumptions, set TDC cylinder 1, and confirm chain tension, camp position, crank position and crank sensor for timing. If it is not in TDC cylinder 1 the chain can be "looser".

 

I took my valve cover off put cylinder 1 TDC or close to it…chain tension seems ok now…but this VVT sprocket doesn’t look normal…seems like the cap/plug has been inserted into the sprocket itself..I also have the cam timing tool and my intake cam and exhaust cam are not perfectly in sync I cannot slide the tool into both slots…is that ok if 1 is slightly off??? I have noticed that when I’m idling I have what sounds like a exhaust leak maybe timing related but sometimes it sounds like I don’t have a exhaust leak…I have bought all new timing components so I’m changing everything but can u elaborate or cans not being perfectly in sync and that terrible looking VVT plug or whatever it’s called…thnx

 

How far off are the two cams? They shouldn't be at all

 

im unable to slide the cam timing tool in both the slots together..it fits on my exhaust cam but where it’s supposed to fit on my intake is slightly off to where unable to slide it in..I’ll take a picture in the morning…I haven’t started to take timing components off yet I got my valve cover a hpfp off right now I’ve adjusted or loosened anything just rotated my crank to TDC so I could check my chain slack…if it’s off time slightly does that matter or is it catastrophic??

 

Does the car still run? If so, then do the timing job and be done with it. However, If it doesn't, do a compression check to see if you bent valves or not. Either way, the timing must be done. But I would confirm 100% that valves aren't bent. If they are timing job is pointless because you need to rebuild.