P0201 help please!!

Just changed my plugs and valve cover gasket was leaking so I replaced that while I was at it. Well when I started the car up it threw the p0201 code and my afr at idle is ranging from +24 to +29. When I start the car up it idles fine for a few seconds and then it starts idling rough. Will post a pic of some numbers. And will post a log later tonight. Car is my daily. Upgraded hpfp, catless downpipe and midpipe, no smoke is coming out of the exhaust. Is there anything I can do to fix this without replacing the injector??

 

Ensure the cam position sensor on the right side of your valve cover is fully seated and harness is connected. Has to be a fully clean seated or it won't work. Check all your harness connection's form during the job

 

Sweet I'll take a look at them tomorrow. Changed the plugs earlier today and it threw 4 codes all related to bank 1, took it out and checked gap it all alright. The person I bought the car car had stretched the coil springs and I'm thinking maybe that could be part of the issue as well?? Getting a p0301, p0201, and p0138 o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 not responding. Plugs I'm using are ngk 6510 gapped at .026. Going to get fluids changed tomorrow and I'm also running some fuel injector and carburetor cleaner through the system as of now. my build list isn't too long but here's what has been done to to car other than stretched coil springs. My AP is ready at idle that my hpfp internals is running around 600 psi as well.

Xs catless downpipe
Catless midpipe
Corksport hpfp internals
K&N cold air intake
My car is also tuned by dramatuned. Have only been able to get base map and one revision done due to all the issues I've been dealing with since the rebuild.

Also have replaced following parts with oem part numbers:

Fuel pressure relief valve
MAF sensor and wiring to ecu
Stock turbo inlet tube
Stock bpv
Stock k04 about 5k miles on it.
Rebuilt motor and transmission( I am the one who broke the new motor and trans in)

Everytime I fix something it runs good for a few hours if I'm lucky a full day. Then it throws another code and starts running like trash again.

Didn't have time to get a log done tonight but will get it updated tomorrow morning for sure. Just running out of energy and I need to find a solution before I'm forced to sell it. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

FYI there is only a bank 1 (it's an inline 4 cyl).

Those first two codes point directly at either a injector not plugged in properly (I've had an injector come back from being cleaned with a slightly bent pin that was just enough to make poor/no contact), or the coil being broken (can happen if injector is removed improperly).

Your 3rd code is nothing to worry about because it is a secondary 02 sensor code. Unplug that o2 sensor and have your tuner turn off the related codes.

If you want to confirm the issue with the injector circuit, you can unplug the large harness plug near the dipstick and check continuity at the pins there. I have a picture somewhere I made to show the pairs of pins for each injector.

Here's that picture. Unfortunately I don't remember the order of cylinders. Each color represents the pair for each injector.

 

0.026 to 0.028 gap needed as well.

 

He did state "ngk 6510 gapped at .026." in post #3.

 

If you can post that pic that would be great

 

It's above, post #5.

 

Oh my bad I didn't notice that. Thank you I'll check them out and post what I find

 

I'm still learning to read...

 

Alright so I just did some simple stuff I changed a coil pack, double checked gap on plugs, checked all hoses and clamps and put everything back together. So when I started the car up there was no more misfire code but now a code for the AIT (p0113) no clue how to fix it Google it and got a bunch of MAF sensor fix videos and stuff but I just replaced the MAF and there's no way it's bad after 150 miles. Any Suggestions? Oh and the injector malfunction code has come back. So did I end up paying for a faulty one or does it take a few miles to reset that code?

 

Is it an oem maf sensor?
Wiring/plug could also be a factor.
So after you got the code you posted earlier you replaced that injector?

 

+1 wiring to MAF is known to fail

 

@Mikey27, how frequently can a coil be damaged by pulling an injector improperly?

Wouldn't the shop cleaning and bench testing the injector know there is an issue with the coil when bench testing the injector?

Asking because I struggled to pull two of four of my injectors and concerned I may have caused damage.

 

It is oem maf sensor. And I didn't replace injector yet. Should be getting it tomorrow. The wire and the maf sensor are both new. kind of thinking could it be my hpfp internals? At a steady cruise at 45 my pressure is running in-between 1400 and 1700 psi.

Here's a pic of my AP with the key in the on position. But my afr will shoot up to 24 to 29 when I actually start the car and it runs really rough.

Yes maf and wiring is both replaced oem from dealership

 

Did you solder wires or use crimp connectors? All wires should be soldered and heat shrinked.

 

Yeah so there is 1 live wire on the big plug down by the mani and 1 live off the big plug by the hpfp. No power running to my hpfp and vvt solenoid. 2 are live running to the center 2 coil packs. Both end coils don't have any power running to them. The spark plug on the far right only had a little bit of black on the little tip where the spark happens. But i don't believe it's getting fuel? (don't know the technical name of it) idk now that I checked wiring and all that happens to be fucking up. Idk what to do.

 

If you dont know what to do then stop doing anything and take it to a shop or a person who does know before things get even more messed up. A P0201 is an injector circuit code or malfunction with an injector. There are only 2 wires going to an injector. Power (supplied to all 4 injectors off of one power circuit) and the wire for the ECU to control the injector itself. So you have 1 power wire that splits into 4 wires each one of those going to an injector. Then you have 4 separate wires for the ECU to ground each injector out in order to fire them. You need to make sure that the wire for cylinder one injector control is good between the ECU and the injector (cylinder 1 in your case) by doing a resistance check. Check the resistance from the ECU plug to the injector (WITH THE ECU DISCONNECTED, BATTERY DISCONNECTED) and verify the you have less than 2 ohms resistance. Then check that wire to ground (I.E. the engine block, negative ground cable etc. It should have no continuity to ground as that would mean it is shorted to ground.

Get yourself a spare headlamp bulb from an auto parts store and a spare connector for it from the help section. You are gonna use this to make yourself a high load test light for testing electrical circuits. You can have low resistance cause one strand of wire is ok, but the rest of the strands are damaged and will not let enough amperage to flow. If you connect the test light to one end of a wire, the other wire from the lamp to ground, and the apply power to the opposite end of the circuit for a second if the bulb lights it means that wire can carry a high load. This is important, because you can have the voltage but not the flow. Whatever you do, do not ever under any circumstances apply power to the ECU side of a circuit. This can cause them to get damaged.

What tool are you using to check the wiring, is it a cheap multi meter or are you even using one?

 

I know what I'm doing I just have never dug this deep into a car before to find a problem. Thank you for the detailed explanation too that helps me know how to go about it. Very much appreciated

Also I'm using a klien multimeter I got from home depot

 

That's good. I'm not trying to come off as an asshole in my post, just trying to explain the process of testing the circuit. I need to make a correction though to my previous post. There could be TWO power wires. One power wire is for injector 1 and 4, the other is for 2 and 3. Prodemand is what I am using as a wiring diagram reference and it shows two different schematics based on California and Federal Emissions. Let me know which yours falls under.

The injector resistance should be 1.0-1.2 ohms if testing the injector itself right at its connector. If you try to test injectors with their harness connected you will get a different reading due to the wires in the harness having resistance as well which will add to the reading.