BAT’s, what to do

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 General Discussion' started by gotovato, Nov 19, 2019.

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  1. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    Hey all, as some of you know I track my car pretty often in the summer. One issue I’ve had is BAT’s getting up to the point where I’m seeing decreased boost and timing(built into my tune of course for safety) after only 2 or 3 laps. On the street this isn’t an issue, 2-3 back to back 4th gear logs and it’s fine, only becomes an issue on track.

    Currently rocking a mishimoto J line intercooler. I specifically picked this so I wouldn’t have to ditch my crash bar which I’m not willing to do.

    One option would be running a little meth? Small nozzle, not tuned for, just to keep bats in check. I was told to avoid this.

    Next option, ducting(which needs to happen anyways) and hole saw my grill to get extra air in there. Might work? Maybe?

    Another option, a more efficient/better intercooler that is a similar size to my current? I looked into a vibrant option but it was rated for the same HP mine is, and is only 1.75” taller, all other dimensions were the same so probably not worth it.

    Anyone have any suggestions for me? Thanks
     
    gotovato, via an iPhone, Nov 19, 2019
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  2. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Ducting, ducting and more ducting.

    Do not cut more holes, or allow more air into your engine bay yet.

    How much air pressure, or vacuum are you seeing in the engine bay? Have you used a magnehelic gauge to ensure you are passing enough air out of the engine bay?
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2019
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Nov 19, 2019
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  3. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Silver Member

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    Make sure that all of the air coming through the grill is being forced through the radiator and intercooler. You should have a diverter to make sure that a high pressure area is maintained in front of the intercooler. Given the opportunity air will just go around
     
    Easter Bunny, via a mobile device, Nov 19, 2019
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  4. aaronc7

    aaronc7 Gold Member

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    E85 an option? With added octane you wouldnt have to worry about high IATs as much from a safety perspective.
     
  5. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    Unfortunately, no e85 available for me. Pump 94 is what I have, and it’s not even great 94 lol.
     
    gotovato, via an iPhone, Nov 20, 2019
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  6. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    so ducting seems to be a popular option among track goers. I haven’t done any testing of any sort, and nothing with a magnehelic gauge. Ducting should go a long way for both bats and coolant temps. Really need to figure out how I can do it.


    The OEM pu grill seems to be pretty restrictive. You suggest not cutting it up?
     
    gotovato, via an iPhone, Nov 20, 2019
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  7. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    so ducting alone will help force enough air through the intercooler that I’ll notice a drop in bats?
     
    gotovato, via an iPhone, Nov 20, 2019
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  8. Maisonvi

    Maisonvi Silver Member

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    Yes, proper ducting. Bad ducting can actually hurt it. Need to make sure your low and high pressure zones make sense.
     
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  9. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    Simple ducting around my rad/intercooler sealing it to the grill as best as possible will hopefully be a good start?
     
    gotovato, via an iPhone, Nov 20, 2019
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  10. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Silver Member

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    Yes.
     
    Easter Bunny, via a mobile device, Nov 20, 2019
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  11. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Have you blocked off your hood scoop?

    You would be surprised at how much air that thing forces into your engine bay when you go front mount IC.

    It will fuck with you 2 ways, 1) it forces air behind the radiator and can ruin cooling efficiency by creating a high pressure zone behind the radiator. 2) that same high pressure zone can create lift, which will severely affect the handling of the car.

    A simple way to test it, use some blue painters tape and line the hood scoop enough to block it and then check BAT's and ECT's. Even if you dont permanently block it off, you can confirm if it's an issue.
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Nov 20, 2019
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  12. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    That is some very helpful information. I really do need to try and block it off. Might be good for a few degrees. Will have to test that and see
     
    gotovato, via an iPhone, Nov 20, 2019
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  13. Cyclist20

    Cyclist20 Silver Member

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    I can confirm blocking off the hood scoop makes a difference. I have a CS scoop, was even running a koyo radiator, and coolant temps would get high. I blocked off with some 1/8" perforated steel (I figured that would allow some air to pass through as if the TMIC was still in place). Bats rarely get above 212 and when it's cool I will cruise at 183/185 where as I was cruising at 207.
     
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  14. Maisonvi

    Maisonvi Silver Member

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    Or best plan: get rid of pu, replace with Gen win.
     
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  15. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    Lol yea sure. Will start by blocking the hood scoop sounds like. Just block the opening where the TMIC would seal against and see how that goes? Would probably be better to just block the opening. Less material needed that way ?
     
    gotovato, via an iPhone, Nov 27, 2019
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  16. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Yes, just tape up the scoop opening and drive around on a highway or something. Them drive the same route with the scoop open at the same speed and watch BAT's and ECT's so you have equal means of which to measure just that one change.

    I wouldnt block it off permanently just yet, because you have to figure out a way to vent heat during stop/go or very low speed driving. The TMIC shroud that goes behind the scoop has slits on the turbo side to vent heat right out of the scoop when stopped. You would need to take that into account if/when you decide to work on your ducting.
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Nov 27, 2019
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  17. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    well that’s interesting. I figured I could just seal it up and it would be fine? Hmm. Taping the hood scoop is easy enough for some simple testing for sure.

    I wish I still had my TMIC shroud so I could see what you mean there. In the spring I guess I’ll play around with it all. Ducting the front end will be interesting aswell
     
    gotovato, via an iPhone, Nov 27, 2019
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  18. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic Motorhead Platinum Member

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    @gotovato

    Pictures of the shroud under the hood. (Mine has a few drill holes from a project that didnt pan out.)

    The vents are towards the back and passenger side. The driver side has too many harnesses and electronics to risk water damage on rain.

    General pic
    20191129_094958.jpg

    Backside by turbo
    20191129_095002.jpg

    Passenger side
    20191129_095007.jpg
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Nov 29, 2019
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  19. SharksInSpace

    SharksInSpace Planets and shit. Silver Member

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    I definitely removed that piece when I put my bigass scoop on, wonder if I should put it back to maybe protect some shit from the elements...
     
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  20. StreetSpeed6

    StreetSpeed6 Welder Silver Member

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    I have been reading up about how much heat the bigger turbo setups make. I am wanting to find a way to do vents in the hood with expanded black aluminum as the covers but haven’t found a good way to do that and maintain DD friendly qualities.
     

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