Boost Leak

This car will be the death of me. It's becoming a trail of fail each day. I am positive I have a boost leak, and the only culprit I could notice was the attached picture. Is this what is causing a boost leak? I'm not sure if it's part of the OEM BPV for vta just in case it needs it or whatever. The square hole is what I'm taking about. Thanks for the input and advice like always.

 

That little hole is were the gasket piece sticks out. Do u have ur rubber gasket on?

 

The stock BPV doesn't have any vta feature. That's where the gasket goes.

Sent from my Nexus 6P

 

I haven't taken my bpv off recently... That I can think of.. But if it has been off for some time now, it wouldn't make sense because I just started noticing a boost leak. It was mid drive yesterday, and I cant build boost for shit. But, just took the bpv off and it's definitely not there.

 

Take it off and inspect for a rubber o-ring gasket. Doesn't look like it is there.

 

I've got a stock bpv or 3. Let me know and cover shipping and I'll send it out Monday. Or upgrade.

 

Well the bpv wasn't the issue. Replaced the gasket today. Still not able to build boost. I can build boost around 6500 rpm. But anything before that, it doesn't move. I did a boost leak test and literally found no leaks. A significant amount of air was coming through my oil cap hole, though. Not sure if that is normal or a sign of some sort. I took the oil cap off to make sure I didn't put positive pressure on the crank. I also did a low psi test with the cap on and still couldn't find a leak. What are your thoughts and opinions and what's my next step?? Is there any possible way I could have blown the turbo but still be making boost?
[doublepost=1466316196][/doublepost] I started looking around more and have found these two things. Maybe they have caused the boost leak? Bolt from the down pipe seems to be missing. And also looks like an oil return line, maybe? Is missing a bolt too. There was oil surrounding this piece as well. Fucking mechanics. Some of them are worthless.

 

1 out of 5 bolts missing shouldn't cause a leak. But I'd replace it ASAP. The oil drain needs a bolt too. Hopefully the gasket is on it and the hole isn't stripped. I had to helicoil mine due to previous owner not knowing shit.

For the leak, grab a vacuum gauge. It can save you a headache. And if you have an ap. What are your fuel trims? That can help diagnose the issue.

Did you recently install a TIP?

tapatalkin

 

Well I ordered some new studs and locking nuts from Edge last night. I did install a new 3.5 inch intake recently, but the MAF has been calibrated and there are no leaks. Here is the last log I grabbed right after the issue started Friday morning. Unfortunately, it seems as if I will be helocoiling my return line as well due to an ignorant mechanic.

I'm a loss for what the issue is... I've checked and double checked all of my boost lines. They are installed correctly. I did a boost leak test and it came out fine, no leaks. What is the possibility the turbo is blown? The intake side of the housing looks great and the turbine moves with no problem.

I am throwing a P2006 CEL... VTCS is stuck closed... is this related in any way?

 

Yes, the VTCS is your intake manifold flappers. If stuck closed, very little air flow, and no boost. Fix that and I am sure boost will return. Check electrical and vacuum to your manifold, and VTCS system.

 

Where do you connect for boost leak test? What do you use as air source and what pressure were you able to build during test?
Compression/leak tests?
What map do you run?

On second look, I'd put my money on what looks like disconnected wastegate.. WTF??!!

That car REALLY needs good inspection of everything..

 

Disconnected wastegate adds like 40 hp. Who worked on this car?

 

The dude at Mazda who cross threaded all of those o2 sensors?

tapatalk, it sucks

 

I connected the boost leak test to the intake side. I used the How To on MSF. I used an air compressor and was able to push in 15 lbs, according to a vacuum gauge. I have not done a leak down or compression test yet. That will be done this week. I am currently running a second revision map from Justin while I get tuned. It's on 91 Octane.

So obviously, I'm a noob. Is the wastegate supposed to be attached to the arm located near it? The mechanic that did the engine swap for me was referred to me by a co-worker. This dude supposedly builds high powered cars all the time, and also has pretty damn good reviews... According to him, this was his 4th MS3 engine swap, so I took my car to him. So it wasn't a Mazda tech.

I'm having nothing but issues. Between the clutch issue I posted and now this...

 

Yeah, you are due a LOT of money back from him.

 

I got off the phone with him a little while ago. He's very unwilling to assist me with any of the issues stating "he doesn't push out projects that are not 100%" and claims it's because I hotrodded it out of the shop. Which is not the case. As bad as it sucks, if I can't convince him to do anything, I'll be taking the car to Mazda for the inspection and repairs, and then suing his dumbass for the whole thing...

 

Yeah, the reason why I bought impact wrench and other tools and do not let some dumb ass to touch my car anymore..
Fix that VTCS - you cannot tune the car with 50% of intake runners closed all the time.

 

Make friends with the local Nator too

 

Fyi, I've got a manifold with a working vtcs for sale in the for sale section.

tapatalk, it sucks

 

From what we've seen, may be all he needs to do is to connect that VTCS actuator arm or electric plug..