Broken injector seals

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 General Discussion' started by GOTTHEFUZZ, Feb 4, 2018.

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  1. Sho

    Sho Platinum Member

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    On ots maps, knock sensor is inactive below 158°F ECT.

    Whether that gets changed or not in a custom map, idk
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Feb 6, 2018
    #21
  2. GOTTHEFUZZ

    GOTTHEFUZZ Greenie Member

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    Thank you guys all for the helpful advice fellas, the car has been sitting for three days due to me having the flu and am unable to really use force.

    But this of course is a good thing simply cause I really don't wanna drive it like this, the reason I asked about the knock sensor and the coolant temperature sensor is because mine broke the day before the injector seals.

    Well either way I just yesterday got the temperature sensor and I plan on installing it the same time as my seals.
     
  3. GOTTHEFUZZ

    GOTTHEFUZZ Greenie Member

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    Well this is what $200 in ms3 parts look like. I wanna put them in really badly but I can't even stand without stumbling around, this flu is kicking my ass.
     

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  4. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic Gold Member

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    I hate $200 lanyards
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Feb 9, 2018
    #24
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  5. GOTTHEFUZZ

    GOTTHEFUZZ Greenie Member

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    MVIMG_20180210_100249.jpg MVIMG_20180210_160619.jpg So I got real pissy and tired of just sitting in bed waiting to die, so I said to hell with it I'll change the seals anyway.

    Man these corksport instructions can be both a curse and a blessing, I feel like I'm disconnecting stuff that doesn't need to be disconnected.

    But regardless I'll tread forward, wish me luck fellas

    EDIT: Is the EGR pipe bolt a reverse thread bolt, it has the stripe of a reverse thread and quite frankly it's on there pretty damn good so I wanna make sure I'm going the right way before I give it force

    EDIT 2: Nevermind I got it, why bother having left handed thread marks but be right handed.
    MVIMG_20180210_100249.jpg
    --- Double Post Merged, Feb 10, 2018 ---
    Holy hell how the shit do you take off the intake manifold without taking off the power steering pump. I've already taken damn near everything off of the other side of the engine and I don't want to start doing the same on this side.

    EDIT 3: Holy fucking hell, never do I ever want to do this ever again, but on the bright side I found the culprit to my little knocking and loss of oil. Both driver side seals are completely gone, there was literally a pool of oil on the starter.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2018
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  6. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic Gold Member

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    With the Gen1, you are better off loosening the slack on the serp belt, unbolting the power steering pump and pushing it aside than trying to fight your way around that last manifold bolt.

    Gen2 have an electric PS pump, so it's just an idler pulley in its place that leaves a lot more room.

    I'm glad you were able to get it done successfully. Now go celebrate by having a tall glass of TheraFlu.
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Feb 10, 2018
    #26
  7. 5doorsoffury

    5doorsoffury Greenie Member

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    The CS seals may be pricey but there well worth it. It gets easier the 2nd, 3rd, 4th time around taking the mani off...... GJ on working on the car while sick. Remember With enuf Tussin DM anything is possible or at least you will think that after finishing the bottle....
     
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  8. GOTTHEFUZZ

    GOTTHEFUZZ Greenie Member

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    I swear my car is like a curse, never have I seen an ms3 with so many problems, everyone's speed doesn't care how much you beat on it, it'll keep trucking along, mine would break on a light Cruse back from work.

    So today I went to McDonald's for lunch and the fucking battery was dead car wouldn't start, the dash lights were dim as all hell, but not once at all did I have a battery light come on, so I push started the fat bitch and drove to a Walmart for a quick battery. After putting the battery I've been having the weirdest most annoying problems.

    My right HID just turns off whenever it feels like it, and my lights flicker when I'm on the brakes, like seriously what type of bs is this car, and I haven't even gotten to the worst part yet. I Hawkeye my KR like it was my tac, and I'm getting huge knocks 5.95kr at high rpm in high boost.

    Like WTH I fixed the two problems I needed to fix and thirty more came literally the next day, I'm at the verge of junking this damn car.
     
  9. Mauro_Penguin

    Mauro_Penguin Punk in Drublic Gold Member

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    Simplest solution is usually the right answer.

    Make sure all your grounds are bolted back up, nothing loose that's knocking on the block (for the knock), and check your belt to make sure your alternator is getting all it's juice out.
     
    Mauro_Penguin, via a mobile device, Feb 13, 2018
    #29
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  10. GOTTHEFUZZ

    GOTTHEFUZZ Greenie Member

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    What's your normal voltage while the car is running? I can't seem to get it to 14v at all, it's hovering around 13.2-13.5v, and when I turn my lights on it'll drop to 12.7v then adjust back to 13.5v
     
  11. neganox

    neganox Feline Führer Moderator Platinum Member

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    Check for parasitic draw while your car is off. Tighten up all of your ground points.
     
  12. GOTTHEFUZZ

    GOTTHEFUZZ Greenie Member

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    What am I looking for when I try to find the loss? Obviously with a multi meter but what am I looking for?
     
  13. jsmith

    jsmith Silver Member

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    Shot in the dark here...but current flow when you disconnect a battery terminal. Measured from disconnected terminal to now free battery post?
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2018
    jsmith, via a mobile device, Feb 13, 2018
    #33
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  14. neganox

    neganox Feline Führer Moderator Platinum Member

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    Set the multimeter to 10 m.amps and wire it between your disconnected negative terminal wire and negative terminal.
     
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  15. GOTTHEFUZZ

    GOTTHEFUZZ Greenie Member

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    Alright fellas, I'll try it in the morning, another awkward thing is it's taking a little to start.

    For example it used to turn on within literally the second, however now it'll take three to four seconds. Just maybe more food for the problem.

    But I'll try out what you guys told me, thanks for all the advice.
     
  16. GOTTHEFUZZ

    GOTTHEFUZZ Greenie Member

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    Well I know I'm super late with the update for this whole ordeal, and quite honestly it feels like it's just gotten worse with this curse of a car.

    I'll be honest, I tried to trade it in for a 370z but that didn't work out because my credit history not being long enough.

    And now I'm stuck with a car that won't build boost past 5psi, with a P0300 code and a stupidly long crank time just to get it going.

    This morning I took the EGR valve off and cleaned it up to where it literally looked brand new, and sure enough it worked, car started fine no P0300 AFR's were beautiful everything was perfect other than not being able to build boost.

    But on the way home light came on at a stop light same dreadful P0300, sure enough when I get home let it sit for a hour or so, and Bam long crank again.

    The only thing throwing me off is the smell of gas on start up for the crank, but it idles perfect runs perfect everything is perfect but the long crank.

    So if anyone has some quick ideas for any of the two problems shoot for it, but at this point I'm a little burnt out of fixing this car.
     
    GOTTHEFUZZ, via a mobile device, Mar 11, 2018
    #36
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  17. neganox

    neganox Feline Führer Moderator Platinum Member

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    Last edited: Mar 12, 2018
  18. GOTTHEFUZZ

    GOTTHEFUZZ Greenie Member

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    When I took the injectors out the blue O-Rings seemed fine, no cranks or cuts, but it's something I should have just changed for good measure.

    One thing that confuses me is that, the smell of gas is only on startup, idk how much that matters but when the car is idling it's perfect, I have perfect fuel pressure it hits 1700psi wot easy and hovers around 400psi idle with some variation of course.

    But maybe you're right, maybe when putting the rail back on I could have damaged one or more of those O-rings, but before I go ahead and take the whole damn thing apart again have anymore ideas?

    Also pardon my ignorance but what's the hard line, and how would I know if it's cracked.
     
    GOTTHEFUZZ, via a mobile device, Mar 12, 2018
    #38
  19. neganox

    neganox Feline Führer Moderator Platinum Member

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    You'll see the hardline on the driver side of the block attached to the HPFP and the fuel rail.

    https://edgeautosport.com/mazda-oem...azdaspeed-3-2007-2013-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/

    If it's cracked you should(?) see fuel around it/the area. Mine never cracked so I don't have experience with the visible symptoms. CS also sells a flexible line that won't crack.

    https://corksport.com/mazdaspeed-high-pressure-feed-line.html
     
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  20. GOTTHEFUZZ

    GOTTHEFUZZ Greenie Member

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    Okay so I took a look at that line, and it looks dry as the Sahara desert, so I suppose we can rule that out.

    So I might just take the car to Kilo Racing this weekend to someone who knows much more than me to hopefully help out, but I have to see when I even have a day off.

    As for now I'm going to looking over every little thing you guys can suggest untill I find the issue.
     
    GOTTHEFUZZ, via a mobile device, Mar 12, 2018
    #40
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