Building for the road course...again

I won’t be messing with bias/prop valve. Stock bias is about 70/30 front to rear. The master cylinder is an oem part from an Acura TL type S. Directly bolt on. No modification required and no bias modification required. The stop tech big brake kit is also designed to retain bias. My reason for the larger master is for when I get the brake fluid a little over temp(I often tend to) having the larger master will mitigate some of the pedal squish/softness I always had and hated with the Mazda. The pedal will be super firm and responsive otherwise. Should be interesting. If it’s an issue I’ll just go back to the stock. This is more of an experiment. When people do the Acura TL brembo upgrade on the civics it’s leaves them with a soft pedal. The answer is upgrading the master. We’ll see how it goes.

I will have to try a few different rear pads however to balance out the hawk dtc-70’s that’ll be going up front. There’s a method for figuring this out but it’s some trial and error on track.

 

Well lately I’ve literally been weighing the options.

Full race 3” exhaust? Or custom titanium exhaust. Price difference is about double but the weight savings with titanium is significant.

With my other minor weight savings, if I went Ti for exhaust it would put the car down into the 2700’s. Wouldn’t take much more past that to get it into the 2600’s. Maybe I’m crazy but I think titanium exhaust will be happening this season!!

Ti is going to weigh approx. 15-20lbs with a resonator, and muffler. Done properly.

stainless setup is about 55lbs. Resonator and muffler as well.


I really wanna get rid of the crappy stock cat back as a 3” is good for close to 10whp on these cars. They really like to breathe.

 

First exhaust quote just in. These guys did my Mazda fmic setup and they did a fantastic job. They’re basically my local weld porn shop. Both exhausts are identical minus the material. High flow 3” cat(it’s still a street car), one resonator and one muffler. Holy crap lol. Guy also told me it’s approx 60lbs vs 15lbs for completed weight. I’m Gonna shop around a little for sure but at least I have a general price idea now. These guys are good but there’s another shop I have in mind for this. Hopefully it’s a few bucks less lol

 

If you want to drive to Maryland these guys will hook you up with stainless

https://m.yelp.com/biz/tonys-custom-exhaust-glen-burnie

Last full exhaust ingot was dual 2.5 no cats and it was like $550 American but also 12 years ago. Still cheap and good though

 

If I ended up going stainless I’d probably just buy a prebuilt kit for $1200 and call it good. Thinking I’m going titanium for the weight savings. It’ll be worth it in my class.

 

If you're planning on making that sauce and not going screamer pipe you may want to consider going 3.5" exhaust.

 

I am thinking about it as at this point the jump in cost wouldn’t be too bad.

you really think 3.5” would be necessary though…? I do intend to boost this thing in the future so whatever exhaust option I go with will also be supporting a boosted setup. I even have the potential turbo setup picked out already(efr 7670).

 

Is boosting really worth the hassle? Seems like it's such a solid car, you would just be adding more headaches for marginal gains.

 

I’m planning to boost it in the longer term. Next season maybe(2023) or 2024. Tracking the Mazda has got me used to a certain…acceleration that the civic just don’t have. I have some weight reduction planned so that might change how I feel but I know me, once I get comfortable whipping the car around in it’s track trim this season…I’ll probably be dying for more power.

 

Weight reduction scheduled for my car. The plan here first and foremost, to keep the interior in tact. This is a street car still so I’d like to have my interior. A good chunk of my weight savings is coming from brakes wheels and the exhaust. That gives me a huge head start here.


passenger seat and rear seats total 90lbs. I can remove those on race day. All of my current weight reduction listed above does no impact my car in its class for time attack. I can also remove my AC shit and subtract another ~60lbs from the car. As we can see here….getting the car into the 2500’s is gravy. 2400’s ain’t much more work either.

I’m estimating with my cams, throttle body, ported IM, and exhaust the car should make around 220whp. At 2570lbs race weight, I’ll be one of the lighter cars in my class with a bit of a power advantage(gotta love that k20 Na power brz can’t touch this this).

weight reduction is the best. So easy on this car. On the Mazda I never gave a shit cause that things heavy AF and even max effort couldn’t get that thing to 2500lbs lol.

 

The best exhaust you can put on any turbo is none at all, but compromises must be made.

 

You’re right. As this built is sort of a minimal compromise build I will look into going 3.5”.

 

Wants a hassle free build and is going to add a turbo to an na car

Good luck my friend

 

Do these cars do well on E85 or a similar kick? Maybe nitrous or solid rocket boosters for that nudge out of the corner, but I would be loathe to ruin the Honda reliability.

 

E85 isn’t available here so that’s out of the question.

car will be NA for now but I do see myself going turbo. 10-14psi is good for mid 400’s wheel on these motors. That low boost is a god send when lapping. Less heat less torque less stress on everything. My Mazda at 22psi was just barely cracking 370whp and that was basically a max effort pump gas build minus PI.

Civic don’t need no 8 injector nightmare setup. That alone is added reliability lol.

 

When the time comes we will see. The differences are staggering when it comes to boosting these motors.

 

This season my focus is getting weight out of the car, and getting as much seat time as I can. I have maintenance I need to do as well as a few little bolt ons and that’ll be it for the season. Learn to drive with the ridiculously aggressive wheel/tire/suspension setup the car will have.

 

Probably one of the nicest parts I’ve ever purchased.

Very very excited for these. The build quality is unreal. I was not expecting this.
Fortune auto 510 series with swift springs
10k front 16k rear

they include shock dyno graphs for front and rear. Build certificate is signed by the builder once, then the QA guy, then the final QA guy. These look amazing.

they are hand built to order in the USA. The valving and internal pistons are also built in the USA. Not just over seas crappy shim stacks.

Now just for my crazy stoptech kit to show up…

 

5.5 hour round trip for this great deal.

K20z3 long block with 70k miles on it. That’s like brand new for one of these fuckers. This is a spare for my car. It’s going to be getting some 9000rpm+ mods and some “it might see boost” prep but otherwise it’ll be stock.



SO clean lol. The valve cover underside is also CLEAN. This thing did not miss and oil change.


It’ll be getting valve train, ported type R oil pump, and arp head studs. That’ll support 9000rpm+ and a couple psi should that day come…

 

Little update on my “spare motor”.

my Honda guy has more or less complied a list for me, most of which is on order currently.

arp head studs
Gasket kit
King bearings
Super tech springs and retainers
Type R oil pump
…
Forged rods and pistons…

it’s about to get exciting. He’s hooking me up pretty heavy on the engine internals(he’s sponsored by supertech must be nice) so yea…it’s escalating. I’ll be starting to tear this motor down ASAP to determine the condition of the cylinder walls…if it’s in good shape we’ll hone it and send it with 86mm pistons and good to go.

forged rods and pistons will mean I can spin the motor well into 9000rpm land reliably…I cannot wait.