Cas' 800+ or Bust Build

Thats what I used to mount my Walbro to the stock tophat:



-6AN 90* Bulkhead fitting Male to Male
-6AN Straight Adapter Female to Female
-6AN Radium Walbro Outlet

Still yet to install and test but hopefully shiuld work fine with the stock feedline for the return


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The brake fluid reservoir does also feed the clutch master and slave cylinder. However, even if your clutch fluid all leaks out on the ground there is a step in the reservoir so that the brake fluid will not also fully drain to the point where you get air in the brakes. When I had my engine out I let the clutch line leak fully out but brakes stayed just fine and I did not have to bleed them.

 

Sorry I just now saw this reply, I don't remember getting an email for the reply. That setup looks solid! I don't have any doubts that it wouldn't work.

Anyways I know why I'm popping lines off. In changing baskets and everything I didn't put the OEM FPR back in so basically nothing controlling the fuel pressure. I have a plan to just run an aftermarket regulator pre-HPFP and that should solve it. Pretty dumb mistake, not sure what I was thinking when I was going through everything.

On the clutch issues, I bought a power bleeder so I can bleed the system myself just haven't gotten around to it yet. I ordered a new TOB today because I'm leaning towards that being the under lying issue, it was only 40 bucks and good to have on hand even if I don't need it.

 

For 450 pump mod I make sure they are running an external FPR. The way i run and the way j recommend is splitting the feed to the HPFP and PI this will use the FPR on the PI for the LP system.

 

Yeah that's exactly what I'm going to do now. Just figuring out what PTFE line I can still use since I ran everything and extra fittings I need. Should be ordering everything in the next day or two. No real rush since it's cold here now. It would be nice to go WOT again with out worrying haha

 

Is it too late to say Happy New Year since I haven't posted since last year? lolz

Car is doing okay, I fixed my fuel issues with a corrugated hose from Radium. I also bought the hard lines like @TRBLSM posted above, they will work just haven't gotten around to changing it because you know still having issues in other areas. My clutch is pretty much dead. I guess the TOB or something is f'd up so now that I can go WOT without worrying about fuel issues my clutch slips anything over 5 PSI. I'm pretty sure I had a TOB issue that would cause it to not engage all the way and must have pre-maturely worn the clutch. I emailed OS Giken and it's 150 bucks to send off my twin disk for them to inspect to see if anything is wrong with it since Oddball couldn't get it to work originally. My OSG clutch has been sitting in my garage collecting dust so I figured I'd try and use it this time around. I'm going to do that when i get my bonus in a couple of weeks. My driver's side outer axle boot is torn again so I need to order a new one of those and do that while I'm replacing the clutch. Not really sure what happened to it since I replaced all the other boots and they are fine. Anyways that's it for now, I really wish I could be posting that I finished my PI system but with all this shit happening I don't feel like messing with it. I just want to enjoy the car.

 

Glad to hear you're pushing through I really want to see it make some jam. My clutch has been holding fine so far I hope I'm not going to have similar issues as my engagement is clear at the top too.

 

Figured I'd make an update, it's been awhile. I'm a dad now, my daughter will be 7 months old tomorrow! So that's partly why I haven't posted anything or worked on my car. Also laziness. I'll try and make the update short. Car still has issues to work out but I'm driving it. Long story short I installed the OS Giken twin disk again and it didn't work again so I just ordered a new ACT 6 puck. While my car was down I made all my fuel lines to a have a full return fuel system. If I get some time I'll post some pictures later on. I have two Aeromotive 325LPH pumps in the tank, a -8 AN line coming from the tank out to a Y adapter, one side going to the HPFP and one side going to the supply side of the PI rail. Post rail I have a FPR going back to the original supply line which now the return line. It's pretty simple but cutting all those AN lines was a PITA and time consuming. I had a couple leaks when I first started it up, one was just loose a little from moving around during the transmission install. The other was by the fuel tank and was barely seeping out from the fitting. The fitting had a burr on the threads so I ordered a new fitting and haven't seen any issues with that.

I haven't had any issues with the fuel pumps in tank disconnecting like they were before so that's good. No more getting stranded from a fuel pump issue, fingers crossed.

The latest issue I'm dealing with is the dip stick tube is popping out barely going into boost so I'm just getting too much crankcase pressure. I just ordered this:
https://www.c-f-m.com/performancepa...ther-Kit-for-2010-13-MazdaSpeed3-760p6532.htm
Also thinking about adding a spring to the dip stick so it doesn't pop out. Something like this:
https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-universal-dipstick-spring

I have two sealed catch cans on the car now and I have one vented Damond catch can sitting in a box in my garage. I'm thinking of swapping one of the sealed ones for the vented can. I hope adding the valve cover breather and the vented can would fix that issue.

For the other issues:
1. Exhaust leak somewhere. I think it's where the downpipe meets the mid pipe but I haven't actually looked yet. Not a big deal just smells when I drive the car
2. I'm throwing a code P0717 Fuel System Lean (Bank 1), I'm assuming it's related to a vacuum leak somewhere. I can go into boost just fine and nothing is lean. Haven't really done any troubleshooting besides making sure everything is tight as far as couplers and any vacuum lines. I've taken the car apart several times and it comes back every time.
3. LTFT is off and shoots to the max +20 or whatever the number is, I'm assuming it's related to the code.
4. O2 sensor is on it's way out again, also probably related to the above issue with running rich or lean at idle. I have another one ready to install.
5. Get AC recharged
6. Not really an issue I just need to take the speed 6 slave cylinder off and install the modified supra slave so just adding it to the list.

 

Do the supra slave sooner than later , don't want to over extend the pressure plate. Have you done a boost leak test and check your pressure relief valve?

 

I have been babying the clutch so far until I can get that installed. I've only driven it a handful of times. I did do a boost leak test but my tester started leaking at 10 psi so I need to make a new one or repair the one I made. I have not checked the pressure relief valve but I think it's okay. I can do that test when I get home to see if it builds pressure after the car is shut off.

 

You need to make sure the car is all the way warmed up for that test.

 

I should have been more clear, I was going to run the test after driving home from work so it'll be warm

 

Time flies, I still own my car and drive it 3-4 days a week when I'm not working from home. It's still on a base map from like 4 years ago...lol I have 2 kids now so even less time to work on it but I'm happy with the change. Funny how your priorities shift as you get older. I changed my oil last weekend while also trying to find where an oil leak was coming from. Turns out it's leaking from where the trans and engine mate up through the tiny hole in the trans housing. I can only assume my rear main seal is going out. The last week or so driving to work I noticed the clutch was feeling a little mushy and not coming back all the way up, so I was thinking the slave cylinder was going out but nope. My clutch pedal assembly snapped in half up towards where it connects to the firewall. I was able to limp the car home with starting it gear and then rev matching/floating gears to shift. Wife wants me to sell the car even in its broken state, but I told her no (in my head).

My plan is to fix it following this How-To Clutch Pedal Assembly / Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement | Mazdaspeeds.org, the number one resource for all things Mazdaspeed! and then I'll deal with the RMS later when I can take the car down for a longer period of time. I finally got around to fixing the exhaust leak that I've had for years, just replacing the gasket and the bolts that hold the downpipe and mid-pipe. I have an axle boot that's ripped that needs to be fixed. I had one of my front ABS/wheel speed sensors fail on me which I was able to replace this past weekend as well. Basically, I have a list of small and large issues with the car that never goes away. I'd love to sell the car but every time I want to, I get sucked back in with how fun it is and the joy it brings me listening to the turbo spool up. I don't know if I'll ever be making the 800+ goal that I had but maybe one day. A buddy broke one of my injector connectors for my PI setup when he was helping me work on it several months ago so I would need to fix that before I can start tuning again. Not sure I expect anyone to respond but figured I'd give an update for those that may have been curious where my car is at now.

 

Welcome back, sir!

 

Bro, I miss you. If you want help tuning it lmk. I also have been doing adult things and it is fulfilling in a different way. Working from home is great but you don't spend much time getting to be in a car so it is hard to justify getting something fun. I got the wife a Kia Niro which has been a solid daily for her and I plan to get something fun when I am done remodeling my basement which could be another year or two. Great to see an update.

 

I miss you too dude and will do on the tuning! I’d really like to get the RMS and axle boot fixed before I push the car again. I wouldn’t want something break doing a pull. I vaguely remember how to do a MAF cal and I also have all the videos bookmarked somewhere when Will Dawson recorded all those tuning videos years ago

 

Here are said videos. @Sho posted em. https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/will-dawson-pd-tuning-educational-videos.8834/

can always grab DTA axles, they are cheap and work well.

Also glad to see momma didn't raise no quitters.

 

Well I fixed my clutch pedal a couple weeks after my last post, no joke that was probably worse than dropping my transmission by myself. The angles and tight spaces you have to fit a socket and your hand in were terrible. Initially I thought the clutch pedal throw was off but I think it's because I was so used to the broken one it just took a week or so to adjust to what the normal clutch pedal is supposed to feel like. This video was helpful since I replaced the clutch master cylinder too and I was able to do the water bottle method for bleeding it.

Now I have a wheel bearing that decided to grenade itself or at least that's what I think happened. I thought my axle was busted but I don't think that's the issue the more I read about it and comparing the noises my car is making to a failing/failed wheel bearing. Also I'm pretty sure one of the balls popped out of the bearing when I was turning and either damaged something in the bearing, hub, or disintegrated. It sounded like a loud pop when I made a 90* turn driving to work one morning. I found a thread on here to help walk through it that looks very helpful. Front wheel bearing How-To kinda sorta | Mazdaspeeds.org, the number one resource for all things Mazdaspeed!
So because I have the driveshaft shop 5.9 axles I can't just buy an OEM hub so I reached out to the DSS to see if they would see just their hub on the chance that mine is damaged. On their site it says they supply hubs with all their MS3 kits now so I would think they would have them in stock. We shall see, I'll update at some point when I get the car apart hopefully over the holidays.

I can't win with this car, every time I fix something, something else breaks a month or two later. I will say it's cheaper to keep fixing this car than to purchase a new one or at least I keep telling myself that.

 

I had to do the master as well and it is straight up torture. I thought many times about just ripping the dash out. I had to do one in my brothers focus ST and it was very similar. We ended up getting a small sawzall in there and cutting a bracket out that was in the way and doing nothing "I think it was for the auto focus" after we did that it took like 10 min. IDK why they made it with the design they did but I hate it. I don't think the rx8 will be as bad but they also have issues with breaking at the firewall so I bought some gussets from Japan to reinforce it.

 

I know that exact bracket you're talking about, I almost cut it off too. Hopefully I never have to touch it again.