Figured it was finally time to listen to everyone telling me to make a build thread. My car is a 2011 Mazdaspeed3 base model that I have owned since March 22, 2020. I bought the car with 76,600 miles and as of the start of this thread on 02/20/24 it has 119,292 miles. I daily drive it, and have truly enjoyed it through every mile. The primary idea behind the modifications I have done/want to do is to build a car that is as if Mazda decided to release a harder core, more aggressively tuned Mazdaspeed3 as an homage to its participation in motorsport, similar to how Subaru made the "S20X" versions of the STI, Nismo with the "Z-Tune" Skylines, Mitsubishi with the FQ Evos, etc. A car that is still retains its identity as unmistakably Mazdaspeed but increased significantly in capability from factory. This just so happens to align with the other primary goal I have for the car: to compete in autocross in the STH class, as well as the occasional track day. Not expecting to be inherently competitive, but to have a car that could take me there if I tighten the nut behind the wheel. My hope is to create a car that is drives freely and happily, feels good around the cones and the backroads, and is relatively reliable. Current Modifications: Engine/Exhaust: Corksport SRI (stock diameter), AEM Dryflow filter Corksport Aluminum Turbo Inlet Corksport HPFP Internals Sure Motorsports Charge Pipes ETS Version 1 TMIC Tial Q 50mm BOV Generic 3-Port MAC Valve EBCS Damond Motorsports Stage 1 OCC Damond Motorsports RMM, PMM, TMM (Race bushings) Ultimate Racing 3" Downstream Cat Delete Ultimate Racing 3" Resonated Catback Accessport V3 with Freektune OTS+ (93 octane) Handling/Brakes: Progress Competition 32mm Rear Antiroll Bar Moog Rear ARB Endlinks JBR Rear ARB Brackets/Bushings Whiteline 27mm Front Antiroll Bar Corksport Adjustable Front ARB Endlinks Moog Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends Centric-Stoptech Brake Rotors Hawk HPS Brake Pads Rear Stoptech SS Braided Brake Lines Monroe OESpectrum Reman Rear Dampers Lifestyle/Cosmetic: Corksport Short Shifter Assembly Solid Shifter Base Bushings Cobb Shifter Counterweight Zero Customs Weighted Shift Knob Zero Customs Anatomy V2 Steering Wheel Black Alcantara Shift Boot Corksport LED Interior Lighting Kit TYC Reman Headlights (Lamin-X GT Yellow vinyl) Sealight H11/H9/H8 LED Low Beams Sealight 9005/HB3 LED High Beams Corksport Carbon Fiber Hood Scoop Rear Reflector LEDs (thanks PO) Way too much crap dangling from the rearview mirror Wheels/Tires: Summer: Motegi MR145 Traklite 3.0 Bronze - 17x8.5 +42 Bridgestone Potenza RE71R - 245/40R17 Winter/All Season: Factory 2011 MS3 Wheels - 18x7.5 +52 Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 - 225/40R18 (fronts have the updated DWS06+ due to recent shortcomings of the Indiana Department of Transportation and Continental having discontinued the original DWS06) Maintenance: Oil Used: Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 Oil Filter(s) Used: Napa Gold 1348 (and Wix equivalent), Mobil1 M1-102A Interval: ~3000 miles Spark Plugs Used: NGK 3787 Gap: 0.026-0.028" Interval: Unsure of proper interval, has been around 30,000 miles, surely needs new plugs by now Gear Oil Used: Tribodyn 75W-90 w/o LSD Additive (per suggestion of JT) Interval: Again, Unsure of proper interval, has been around 40,000 miles, surely needs it by now Coolant Used: Whatever was in the car when I got it, plus being topped up with distilled water Interval: Eventually, I don't ever see abnormal coolant temps Plans for the Future: Looking to get valves cleaned sometime this year Looking to get VVT service along with timing chain replaced sometime this year Figure out the source of the weeping oil leak from around the oil filter area mentioned in my other thread Factory suspension is showing its age, hoping to upgrade to coilovers that are capable, adjustable, reputable/high quality, and not excessively stiff. Current options considered are Bilstein B16, Fortune Auto 500, and KWV2. I have yet to see reviews of more cost-effective options like the Corksport or Graveyard Performance coilovers in an autocross/track perspective. I currently have a set of Morimoto XB LED fog lights that are waiting for a warm day with free time to go on the car. PO did some hackjob wiring with the front left ABS sensor wire which added about 8 extra inches to it. Last year, it came dislodged from its clever hiding spot behind the upright and began contacting the wheel, causing a strange intermittent ABS and TC light. I've since replaced the wire with one from Beck/Arnley on Rockauto, but the new wire did not fix the issue and I've had the ABS and TC lights on for months now. I will look into it this spring and see if the wire/connector got damaged during install, or if I just need to get a new harness. Eventually the plan is to get a 3" intake OR the stock diameter Mazdaspeed CAI (rare and neat part), a 3" Ultimate Racing Catted Downpipe, and have the car full-tuned by Justin at Freektune for a reliable 280-310 whp and 300-330 lb-ft goal. I don't particularly care for big power, I am an amateur driver at autocross who already doesn't know how to handle the maybe 260whp the car has now. I would like to eventually get around to installing the Corksport Oil Filter Sandwich Plate along with oil temperature and pressure sensors and run them to gauges in the cabin. Thanks for reading this far if you did. Here are a few shots of the car to close out this initial post: ^here with my friend's 1988 Mazda 323 GTX, these cars are two bookends of Mazda's hot-hatch library
Was incredibly bored and up all night last night so I ended up installing the Morimoto fog lights. Really impressed with the brightness and light pattern of these. I had been worried that my headlights might have been angled too high up after I replaced them last spring, as I felt like the road surface just in front of my car wasn’t illuminated very well. Turns out that’s just the effect of having factory fog lights after upgrading to LED headlights. Pictures are kind of shitty because my phone is terrible with white balance among other things, but here is a before and after:
My thought though is that if I can hit the power numbers I want with a stock size intake, my craving for rare and vintage Mazda parts is insatiable. Especially because the other option I wanted (HTP 3” single piece) has not been available for a number of years now
So if you look in my build thread I was at 280 whp and 320 tq on a BNR S2 with a stock DP and a CorkSport Stage II Intake which is stock sized. This was also on a 93 tune and on a Mustang Dyno which are known to be heart breakers if you are chasing numbers. You may be able to find a HTP intake out there if you keep an eye on eBay and Facebook groups. I actually bought a 3 inch HTP of of eBay about a year ago. I ended up sending it back because it had a dent in it that the seller acted like he didn't know about. The dent was a pretty decent flat spot and the tubing measured about 2.6 inches OD at that point. Guy wanted to try and argue it wouldn't make any difference, yeah ok well sell it to someone else then.
It also wasn't a special part it was made by aem I believe and had a Mazdaspeed sticker slapped on Everyone threw them away in like 2011
Ah, gotcha. Probably just get a 3” then. This of course only will happen once I have enough money for DP and tune, which is probably pretty far away unless I score a sweet gig with a race team this year
I see you specifically noted that you didn't use any LSD Additive. Does your car not make grinding/rubbing sounds when doing low speed full lock turns?
Nope works great I'm running the same, has to do with the type of LSD we have, discussion here https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/transmission-fluid.10324/
