Clutch Parts list doubt

Good evening guys

I'm getting ready to purchase a few parts for the clutch installment but i have a doubt, they told me to take advantage and replace the inner transmission/axle shaft seals, they told me these where a good idea to be replaced when doing clutch) when talking about the inner transmission seals are they the same thing as inner shaft seals
They gave me these part numbers:

A601-27-238 Manual Transmission Output Shaft Seal
A602-27-238 Manual Transmission Output Shaft Seal
I want to know if these are the actual seals I'm talking about replacing?

The other parts i will be replacing are these:
Slave Cylinder
LF01-16-510 Bearing
YF09-11-303 Pilot Bearing
L305-16-520 Release Fork
L304-16-311 Clutch Flywheel Bolt
9XG0-24-26S Plate Bolt
LF01-11-310B Cover Rear (W Seal)
Redline 70w90 trans oil
metal lube treatment for manual transmission
Is it true you have to wait like 10-12 hours after or when replacing inner seal?
Am i missing something anything else on my list? Can anyone clarify my doubt?
Thanks

 

I'd run Tribodyn manual gear oil over redline, speaking from experience.

Also don't forget your brake fluid to bleed the clutch, if you never dealt with the speed clutch bleed before it's a dual resovoir the clutch is in the back gotta keep the brake fluid up at the max line+ (over filled) to ensure the clutch resovoir actually gets filled.

Some people take advantage and replace the rear main seal (that's on your list) which I get and don't at the same time. As for transmission output shaft seals, if it's all out and you're planning on doing your rear main seal then yeah may aswell do those especially if they look tired. If you didn't have the rear main seal on your my sentiment would probably be "meh, see how they look".

 

Rear main seal I would have on hand but not plan on replacing unless it looked like shit

 

driver's side is A60127238, passenger is A60227238 for thr axle seals. You have the correct part numbers.

 

I'm going to replace it because a friend of mine went through the rough work of having to take down his transmission because his clutch was ruined due to oil leak through seal, he had to buy a new one. I'm not going to risk it or have to go back to take down the transmission which is not such an easy task, honestly.

Thanks you my friend! for confirming me this

Thanks for the heads up! Let me ask you this, how much is this oil and where do i get it cheaper? how much quarts does our transmission take?

 

You need 3 qts of transmission fluid, it'll take just less than that to fill, tribodyn is not cheap
https://tribodyn.com/products/tribodyn-75w-90-fully-synthetic-gear-oil-1-quart-946ml

I have been Able to google some discount coupons in the past, I will say it's worth the money if you get temps below freezing, again personal experience and chatting to others. If you don't want to spend the money I totally get it the Ford XT-M5-QS fluid can be had really cheap from rock auto and is coined "unicorn jiz" in the speed community because of how good it works and until recently when someone tried tribodyn was the go to fluid. Chatting to people and reading the forums tirbodyn and it are definitely the top 2 recommend fluids over redline.

Here is a thread to discuss transmission fluid
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/transmission-fluid.10324/

 

Great! thanks for the info! I'm going to check it out.

I need to clarify with any of you who have replaced the inner seal part number LF01-11-310B/A Cover Rear (W Seal),
is it true that when installing this seal, you have to wait 9 to 12 hours to run the car? supposedly the instructions states this.
Another question, is it true that this part comes with a tool to align the seal in order to avoid damaging it? I talk to priority mazda in Virginia and they told me that it does not come with the plastic tool but my friend who worked as a mazda mechanic tech. told me that when he worked at the dealership this part used to come with the plastic tool. I'm lost here because i already ordered the part from Priority Mazda and I'm wondering if I will need this tool. If anybody of you can share some light here, I'm going to appreciate it.

 

Every rear main seal ive ever purchased directly from mazda or edgeautosport has come with the special service tool attached to it inside the packaging. ​

This may be the part# on for thr SST if you wanna look it up

 

as for your question ref letting it sit for a few hours after you do the rear main seal: yes because you apply silicone sealant that needs to cure and set, if you don't give it time then it can leak.

 

Thank you so much! this really clarified my doubt. My friend was right! By the way, were can i get this part separately?

Thank you my friend! for such valuable information, where exactly is the silicone applied?what silicone type and brand is recommended here?

These are the great benefits of being a member on a forum, you get the precise information that other people locally can't give you or don't know. Thanks to all of you who have helped me here with my project. Cheers to all of you

 

Cant believe they asked me for $90.00 for the plastic tool to install the rear seal!!! i said fuck it! i aint spending $90.00 dolars on a tool for a one time use. Im still lost here practically everybody has told me the seal comes with it so that being said ill wait for the seal to get to me.
Im thinking this guy probably doesn’t know
or has no clue to the part. Dam! this really upsets me

 

Look at the picture sho posted 2nd box shows where to apply sealant basically on flat mating surface

 

Ok Thanks!

 

Good evening guys!

I got my parts today and i have a very big doubt, some parts i ordered came in Ford brand but labeled with mazda oem part number(pilot bearing, rear seal and clutch plate bolts). The dealer told me that mazda was sending them the parts like this.
Is this ok or did i get the wrong parts? should i return them?I attached pictures so you guys can give me some light here.
Another question is, the rear seal on the picture, is the plastic white piece in the middle the adapter to install it?



Thanks for your help here!

 

have you not noticed the FOMO stamped on parts of your engine block? your dip stick even says FOMCO. you're fine

 

Those of you who have done the rear seal, what is the best silicone for this task or which brand seals best? Just want to be sure no oil leak damaged the new clutch like it happened to my friends car

 

RTV black all the things

 

Thank you so much for the advice and picture, I'll look for this brand.

 

Finally tomorrow my friend and i will be doing clutch replacement so that being said i have a few questions,
1) Do i apply silicone before installing the seal or after?
2) It says to apply silicone on mating surface but i noticed that on that surface there is a long groove line, also on this groove?after installing seal do i have to apply more silicone?
3) How much silicone you guys recommend applying?
4) How much brake oil do i need to bleed slave?
Sorry for the so many questions but this is the first time ill be doing my cars clutch. Thanks in advance for your support

 

Sorry to bump an old thread, but hoped someone could give some related advice. I'm doing a clutch job on my 2012 and have ordered most of the same items above - I received the new slave cylinder, but noticed it didn't come with a new hydraulic line. Should the old hydraulic line be replaced as well, or can that stay?

Thanks for the help!
~Sass