Confusing boosting issue

I have checked the plug like 10 times in the past 3 days and it looks secure. I'll take a look at my logs later today for LTFT.

 

You can always bypass the ebcs and see what spring pressure does. You can also test the wastegate with compressed air. It should crack around 12psi for stock I think. Definitely check that the ebcs is getting power.

 

3 (pretty dumb/noob) questions:
1. How do I bypass the ebcs to check spring pressure?
2. More of a statement: don't think I could check the WG by myself with compressed air. I'm ok with mechanics but no expert.
3. What do you mean to check EBCS is getting power? Like confirm it's plugged in?

I've read a good amount of threads and most of these checks look simple which is why I'm hesitant about paying a shop to do them for me. However, I've spent so much money on new parts that at this point I think I may just have to. Literally have upgraded everything related to boost in the past 3 months trying to chase this.

 

My 3rd gear WOT log shows LTFT at 0 all through WOT. Once I let go of the accelerator pedal then I see them go to 7.4, -5.47, -2.5.

 

Hi everyone, as I'm trying to isolate my boost issue to either the wastegate or EBCS, I've been instructed to do the following:

"Have you tried hooking the boost reference line off the turbo directly to the turbo waste gate itself to see if the problem is still occurring or if its hitting spring pressure? This can help us eliminate the Wastegate or the EBCS ."

On CS site I found an articlethat says to use the lower nipple (A) and cap off the top one (B). Just wondering though: would I have to cap off the two plugs from the EBCS that I disconnect (WG and boost source)?

 

@JohnnyTightlips @Enki @andale927 thoughts on OPs issue? As my troubleshooting knowledge is limited to my already input and I'd look to you gents for more information.

 

You can just let the EBCS sit. You want a single line going directly from the turbo (boost source) to the wastegate. You would probably want to cap off anything that is left open anywhere else, but the EBCS can just sit there. .

Process of elimination is best IMO, once you find that your wastegate is operating correctly you can start looking at other areas.

 

@andale927 Thanks a lot! I'll do as directed.

 

Thanks again for your help man! Just did this and sent some logs over to CS. Seems that with doing this routing, my WGDC never exceeds 50% and as a result I am holding ~11.5PSI all the way to 5500RPM. Previously, I'd start seeing a drastic decline in boost once I passed the 4800RPM range. I'm hoping this means an EBCS issue... if that's the case, I'm just going to purchase the CS or GFB boost controller.

 

Grimspeed or Cobb ebcs are the two go to controllers for the speed. Is it a new ebcs you have? Manufacturer should warranty it if it's the issue and new.

 

Yes its new, the kit JBR sells. I wouldn't warranty it, I'd just buy a grimaced one instead.

 

All the of the controllers are just MAC controllers with pretty stickers on them. If you are confident in your soldering or crimping skills just cut the connector off and slap it on here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAC-3-Port...122705?hash=item2aee07ead1:g:NWwAAOSw8MZbvjJQ

If your wastegate was not opening far enough you would see boost creep and spikes, you would not see low boost. If it was opening too early or too easily you would see low boost as it is letting all the pressure bypass the turbine wheel.

 

After checking my new logs, Justin has confirmed that boost is still significantly dropping (~6PSI) in the higher RPMS. It sounds like the WG is opening too early or easily based on the comment you've made above.

Hoping CS can help me settle this!

 

Have to checked the wastegate preload?

 

I've adjusted before as directed by Justin... I've been trying to solve this since April.

1st time =2 full turns
2nd =4 full turns
3rd = maxed out preload

Every time boost went up a bit but never exceeded 13.5 and always dropped to 6psi in high rpms.

At this point CS wants me to check for leaks again and adjust preload again so I'm going to speed performance and having them help me. Hopefully this suffices for a warranty claim (if necessary) or just to help me identify the issue if other than turbo/WG.

 

Hi Everyone, putting this out there to help anyone who may have experienced what I did. I know I will get flamed for a dumb lazy f***k and not doing this check first, but here we go....

A year later - new turbo, full bolt ons, and a crap load of posts/emails/calls... the issue I was having wassss... that my freaking air filter was tucked too close to my intake tubing which severely restricted airflow. I remember doing a WOT pull on I95 here in NJ, then my next pull I felt a "wall". I guess during that WOT pull, my clamp broke which let me air filter just roam freely eventually getting sucked into the actual CAI.

To be honest though, the car gods blessed me with this issue because due to this I got permission from the wife to FULLY upgrade my beautiful lovely genPu, but DAMN what a shame.... all this time I've been crying for power and more boost, and all along it was just a simple a** fix.

To any noob that sees this post, learn from my dumba**.

My car is so freaking fun! All those years imagining I owned a race car have been fulfilled. Long live Mazdaspeed.

P.S. really appreciate everyone's input towards my posts. I learned how to bypass an EBCS and track down vacuum lines, secure them, etc. So thank you everyone for the patience and feedback.

 

I'm glad you learned something. That's pretty wild and a reason I never mess with CAI especially on a turbo car.

 

Came with car bro but Nishan told me to get a 3.5 asap so I can get the most out of my set up. Honestly though, compared to my b20v hatch, my car is fast as fck and I don't know if I really need more power for now.