CP-E HPFP vs Corksport Internals?

I just got my hands on a CP-E HPFP that looks pristine. It was part of a group of parts I just purchased from a blown Speed near me. My question is are the CP-E considered better than having corksport HPFP internals? Curious if I should be swapping my pump or just putting it up for sale if there is no benefit?

I can't find much info on them online other than CP-E write up talking about some hard coating they used inside the pumps but have they been proven more efficient?

 

Conditionally worse. Last I checked, if you open the pump, they won't warranty it.

With other internals, you could have a couple sets in case one goes down if uptime is a priority. With CPE, pretty sure you'd have to purchase an entire new pump as your secondary.

 

Do they even still honor the warranty? Didn't they just use auto tech internals

 

Well I have not opened it, however it is going to need to be cleaned because it came off the engine... so is the consensus it's just oem with auto tech internals?

Not really worried about having a backup because I clean mine up occasionally to make sure it's not getting nasty. Just want to make sure I'm not giving up the superior option

 

Yes but how you clean it and what you clean it with matter very much...As does the oil and fuel you use in the engine.

 

CP-e used APR internals which should be fine. If they die replace with something else.

 

I always follow the corksport video and use brake clean with Q tips, changing filter and O rings accordingly. I run 93 through it no corn. But I definitely hear you on the importance of backup parts lol God knows what could happen and it may come in clutch if my CS internals die

 

I prefer using lighter fluid (naphtha) for cleaning as its a great solvent for oil and fuel related residues vs brake clean.
Lubrication of parts I use Redline fuel injector cleaner, and also prime the pump with it to provide long lasting lubrication.

I really need to do a guide on this shit.

 

Yeah you should! I've been lurking on here about a year reading as much as possible, and I've heard about using redline FIC to prime and lube but lighter fluid to clean is new to me

 

there is a good guide specifying redline fuel cleaner and naphtha... JT knows his stuff and something tells me enki probably had "some" input

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...nd-spill-valve-michael-rey-facebook-kit.8069/

 

what kind of oil are you supposed to use in your engine to not foul the hpfp, and when you say the fuel matters, do you mean if you add/use corn on top of dino's?

 

Corn accelerates the issues, but using a DEXOS oil seems to do best longevity wise for the HPFP; the worst pump I've ever seen came off a CX7 which only ever saw pump gas, and had stock internals. Normally, you can just pull the internals out of the pump without removing the nut, but these had to be hammered out. It also came with the part that bolts to the head (that the pump bolts to as well), but that had to be hammered off too. Terrible.

Also, pick up some Redline injector cleaner; clean with lighter fluid/naptha, lubricate with Redline, when you put the pump back on the car, leave the spill valve loose and fill to the bottom thread with Redline before reinstalling the spill valve. That will likely help this issue, specifically.