Crank Keying Crank, Pulley and Spockets

This is a topic few people talk about. Many say, it's built security and others say if you build your build right, you won't need added security. There are many DIY builders that might need the added security for a peace of mind so they don't think about the what if's.

Are there any recommended shops out there that offer this service than SP63 for $445.00 combo with crank turned in? Not a bad deal with balance & micro polish. Massive Speed System, on eBay, selling brand new keyed set up claiming everything is factory new and keyed in bulks for $1,253.13 and $78.85 for shipping. Some local machine shops in my area state they can do the key way for the crank but not for the pulley or sprocket.

Everyone's knowledgeable input is welcome to provide us with more reliable resources.

 

I had sp63 key my crank and it was 2 theeth off.. i couldnt line up the crank sensor. You could see the scratch marks for where they measured and then you can see the cut keyway to the right of thoes marks ffs. Luckely the reluctor wheel is pressed on so i removed it with a screwdriver and hammered it back on in the right spot. They do good work but it is not consistent.

 

Yea when SP wants to do good work they do, but it seems all too often they're not paying attention to what they're doing. I've heard so many stories.

 

I had three builders all but dismiss the procedure as unnecessary when I was getting mine built. At the same time, we have a member here who suffered catastrophic engine damage that would have been prevented had the crank been keyed. Jumped timing is one thing. I have personally seen it happen and cause practically no damage. Our oil pump is driven by a crank pulley, and well...oil pump stops pumping while the engine is running and bad shit happens. I didn`t get mine keyed, but I was also very, very clear about my views on who would be responsible if for some reason the friction washers did not hold. The shop was very aware of the power I`d be making and they completely stood behind the build and the friction washers holding just fine at the 500whp mark so I saved the several hundred dollars.

 

This is the exact reason I'm thinking of keying mine. I'm building my motor and if i fuck up it's on me, so the extra protection would be nice.

 

Had I built my engine in the garage I would have gotten it done. Not one doubt about it.

 

I just gotta find a local shop to do it since I really don't feel like sending it off to SP.

 

This is the situation I am in. I am building one block so I want that security. I have a Napa Machine Shop building another.

--- Double Post Merged, Oct 8, 2017 ---

This is what I am trying to avoid. I know too many people with negatives coming from those guys

 

You'll have two built motors? Hardcore.

 

Something like that. I just purchase another pu for a salvage title deal but it's not salvage. It has a good amount of electrical problems with missing key components. I want to get it back on the road. All the blocks will be built on different levels. The block in my pu now will need some love soon so 3 blocks. One block will just be an OEM rebuild with upgraded studs and basic headwork. Second is a built capable of 650 daily but a 500+ DD. The third will be an all out racing block. I'll be selling 2 of them or find 2 non salvage speed (that needs an engine or purchasing just a frame) and put a motor in it.

 

We have a local shop that has done keying of the crank (I dont think they pinned the cams though)

That said I would have loved to have done it, but at the same time it wasn't in budget. Really the diamond washers have been proven to hold 600+ hp without issue when done right.

 

When I did my build I was under the impression keying/pinning was basically the thing that you do if you want to make big power... now with more research under my belt, I know motors can and do hold plenty of power for a long time without that added security. I have no regrets though, as the pinning was included in my head work and keying of the crank isn't overly expensive in the whole scheme of things. As I always say when talking about this, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

When assembling a keyed/pinned motor, you really just need to get it into time, and then go ham on the crank bolt with a impact. That aspect is pretty nice as I am rather confident I'll never have any timing issues.

 

See this is the first motor that I'm building, and I'm slightly retarded so I definitely want the added security. A couple hundred bucks is worth protecting my 4K motor if you ask me.

 

Exactly the same boat I was in last year and here we are around 6k miles later and still making 600+whp. You can do it!

 

I have faith I can do it. I'm just waiting to finish up medic school before I do this. So I got 9 months for that to be over. Did you get upgraded cams at all or stick with a stock refresh on the head? I'm picking up some piper stage 2 cams.

 

Stock cams, SP63 stage 2 single runner headwork. The cost/benefit of cams, at least when I was pricing everything out, just wasn't good enough for me. I do plan on doing a little refresh of the motor soon though and was considering swapping out the cams. Where do you even buy those Piper Stage 2 cams?

 

this did not go unnoticed.

 

You have to contact Justin at freek directly to get those, prices vary though due to exchange rates.

 

Jef, this also made me

 

Update! Called my local machine shop who just so happen to specialize in Ford motors and they said they have no problem keying my crank or pinning the cams.