Dropping and replacing subframe

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 6 Build Diaries' started by Kevin Stillwagon, Aug 3, 2021.

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  1. StreetSpeed6

    StreetSpeed6 Diesel Slayer Silver Member

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    I think kroil is actually MUCH better than PB blaster and pb is what I use 90% of the time too. It is great stuff but kroil somehow knows what to do to make it that much better.
     
    StreetSpeed6, via a mobile device, Aug 10, 2021
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  2. L337TurboZ

    L337TurboZ World Class Truck Squatter Greenie Member

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    Did you use the torch on that badly rusted bolt before trying to loosen it? It would also help to spray everything down with PB the night before and allow it to penetrate the rust before working on it again. I have heard Kroil is good stuff but I never seem to have luck finding it in my area.
     
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  3. Kevin Stillwagon

    Kevin Stillwagon Greenie Member

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    The one from yesterday? It was a small phillips head that holds the top of the fender onto the car, and the angle of the screw makes it very difficult to get any leverage on it when trying to turn it. Area it was in is not conducive to flame, and to be honest it looked pristine when I pulled the cover off, I wasn't expecting any issues getting it out. But just a small turn of the screwdriver stripped the head, and so I had to hacksaw it out. Broke the head off one of the lower fender bolts, so I'll be taking this advice and spraying everything down tonite on the passengers side in preparation for pulling that fender off tomorrow.
     
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  4. Kevin Stillwagon

    Kevin Stillwagon Greenie Member

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    So I sent these to the folks at POR 15, and their response was that prep work looks good enough to apply their product. They recommend the prep, treatment then paint, with two coats of paint for the job. Has to be re painted when still somewhat tacky, or else if it fully cures you’ll need to scuff the surface to get the second coat to bond.
     

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  5. Westbound

    Westbound Greenie Member

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    Man didn't realize you've got a post going too!! Nicely done so far, definitely second the stripped nut removal socket set and soaking in PB overnight for everything trying to remove. I've prepped that same exact area, however I ended up using a couple of coats of Rustoleum instead. Going to be prepping the subframe over the next couple of days. Good luck!
     
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  6. Kevin Stillwagon

    Kevin Stillwagon Greenie Member

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    Welp, busted the MFing headlight housing, then busted the MFing beauty ring underneath it because of some MFing bolt that stripped in the MFing plastic support piece it was screwed into.

    Mfer....

    Oh, and still had to stand there and hacksaw the MFing bolt out......
     
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  7. L337TurboZ

    L337TurboZ World Class Truck Squatter Greenie Member

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    Be patient. You're doing good work so far. Rust sucks but when you finally get everything coated and it's rust free/looking good you'll know that it was all worth it. I'm looking forward to seeing how it all turns out.
     
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  8. Kevin Stillwagon

    Kevin Stillwagon Greenie Member

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    Question.

    The steering assembly, that will drop with the subframe, correct? I've never worked on one before, and getting to that interior bolt is a real MFer, and it looks like the column is coming out of the housing anyway. Other than that, two small bolts up front and it's out. Spent all Sunday with a bare hacksaw blade cutting one of the back bolts off the drivers side bracket, so that wasn't fun.
     
  9. Kevin Stillwagon

    Kevin Stillwagon Greenie Member

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    It' s out. Pics to follow, but that thing is a mess. Next up is removing the exhaust, which is as bad a shape as the sub. Cut the down pipe last nite, trying to get to the upper bolt, but gave up after an hour so that will be the next project.
     
  10. Kevin Stillwagon

    Kevin Stillwagon Greenie Member

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    So how do you pull the exhaust manifold cover off? I have the five 8mm bolts out, plus a 10 that was on the bracket in back, but that fooker refuses to let loose. Any guidance would be appreciated.
     
  11. L337TurboZ

    L337TurboZ World Class Truck Squatter Greenie Member

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    There's gotta be another bolt you're missing. Try using a mirror
     
    L337TurboZ, via a Motorola device, Aug 18, 2021
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  12. jsmith

    jsmith Silver Member

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    Arent there two on the back/underside? One centered, and the other further down and driver sideish?
     
  13. Kevin Stillwagon

    Kevin Stillwagon Greenie Member

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    To be clear, I'm talking about just the cover, not the manifold itself. It feels for all the world like its hooked onto that bracket on the back, but that doesn't actually come off, unless there's a bolt underneath. I'll be under it again tonite trying to cut that downpipe off again, so I'll check it out.
     
  14. Kevin Stillwagon

    Kevin Stillwagon Greenie Member

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    I'm have to pull the down pipe, but the heat shield in in the way and both the 8mm and 10mm holding it on are stripped. I can't get a socket wrench into the area where the 10mm is up against the fire wall (AC hoses are in the way) and the 8mm is angled so I can't get a blade on it to cut it off. I'm thinking these bolt extractors and a box end wrench would be the best bet.
     
  15. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Motorhead Platinum Member

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    Can you pound a standard socket on that's a little smaller than 8 or 10 mm
     
    Easter Bunny, via a mobile device, Aug 20, 2021
    #35
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  16. Kevin Stillwagon

    Kevin Stillwagon Greenie Member

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    Gonna update this thread with some bad news. After pulling off the subframe and removing the exhaust, I finally got around to really looking at the back end of the vehicle, something I hadn't paid much attention to initially. Turns out the rust back there is worse than in the front, not the sub, but the floor pans. I took some pics and sent them to a local body shop and he feels the extent of the rust will make rebuilding this particular car .....problematic.
    So, I'm going to part out the panels and inside, whatever is worth anything on the engine and trans, and have the rest of it hauled out. I'm pretty bummed out about this, but this is all on me for not doing a better job looking the car over when I bought it.
     
  17. Cfoldone

    Cfoldone Gold Member

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    Damn, sorry to hear your situation. I was enjoying your rust wars...I had a left front hub, wheel bearing with a stuck axle stub...so junk yard hub to start over. Hope your efforts will see you find another one to work on, if you are.
     
    Cfoldone, via a mobile device, Sep 9, 2021
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  18. L337TurboZ

    L337TurboZ World Class Truck Squatter Greenie Member

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    Damn dude that sucks but at least you found it instead of driving the car and having an accident happen only to be seriously injured due to the body of the car being compromised.

    If you're parting stuff out I'm in need of the handle/pocket that's on the rear hatch trim panel. I also need a few other things and can PM you with a list if you want.
     
    L337TurboZ, via a Motorola device, Sep 9, 2021
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  19. Kevin Stillwagon

    Kevin Stillwagon Greenie Member

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    Sorry for the late replies. Jesus, I'm going to have to put this thing back together just to get it hauled out of my garage. Sub is out, all the front end suspension is out, steering is disconnected.....dang. So anyone wants parts, send me a list, I'll be checking back. I'm reusing the coil packs for my 2008, there the same part number. Not sure I can reuse anything else, I briefly considered an engine swap then decided I'm too fucking old for that kind of hassle. Lights, engine covers, air box, etc are all out and can be sent along to needy vehicles.

    Nothing on the suspension is worth salvaging, with the exception of the strut supports. And those are pretty knarly. Interior is in good shape, seats, dash, panels etc. I'm not going to pull it all apart and post pics, so if you want something send me a PM and I'll see what I can do.
     
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  20. Kevin Stillwagon

    Kevin Stillwagon Greenie Member

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    L337, send the PM, I'll pull what I can.
     
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