[SOLVED] ENG BAR 1 fuse keeps blowing when accelerating

Hi folks, need some help
. Car is a 2007 MS3. Chassis has 196k on it. All wiring harness are original and have original factory loom cover. Never had been cut or spliced for anything..
Notable Mods:
Built motor (now has 34k on it)..
Cpe exhaust mani.
Pw46 ewg.
PTE 5862 turbo.
Cobb front mount with cx piping.
HTP 3.5.
Aem meth kit.
Hpfp internals
Grimmspeed 3 Port EBCS
Stock intake mani with vtcs removed

Symptoms :
Saturday afternoon I was driving from the grocery store to head out to a friend's, and the car started bucking under constant throttle, rpm would drop then go back to where it was. At first it was occasional (once a minute), then became very violent and regular

Car shut off and I coasted into a gas station. Discovered Injector plug for cylinder 1 had come off the Injector, ENG BAR 1 FUSE was blown.

Had the car towed home.
Pulled the manifold and reconnected and secured the Injector harness to the Injector and tied it down temporarily until I get a new Injector that has the little nub in tact to keep the plug in place.

Started it up and let it warm up completely. Revved in neutral and car was fine. As soon as I put it in gear and gave it gas to move out of the garage, ENG BAR 1 fuse blew again.

Replaced throttle body with known working one as well as cam position sensor.

No wires are exposed as far as I can see.

Stock sized battery in Stock battery tray. Ecu is mounted on fuse box and has been like that for over 120k miles.

Basically every time I give it gas in gear and the car starts moving, the fuse blows and the car shuts off.

I have a new coil pack harness and Injector harness coming tonight.

But here are the codes it's throwing. And presents itself on multiple tunes.












Any help is appreciated

Here is a diagram from all data regarding that particular fuse

 

When you switched to the new PMM, did you tighten the ground wire down good?

 

PMM has been in the car for 3 months now. Haven't touched it since. I did check the ground and it is in tact and secure.

Damond rmm and TMM went in last Wednesday as well as a new thermostat and cleaned the spill valve. No issues whatsoever until this Saturday

 

My first guess is a ground somewhere. Outside of that, maybe a wire shorting out somewhere, which could awful to track down. Do you have a multimeter?

 

I do, and I've tested continuity and resistamce on every plug related to the DTC codes thrown

 

@Sho I think and am almost certain you are throwing all those codes because they are on the same fuse and circuit. 1 of those Items has to be the culprit. or something is wet or has a conductive liquid inside of loom or shroud somewhere with enough wire showing on both to short them out. Or a random bend or corner that doesn't show until the car moves and things shift.

 

Issue solved. Crank position sensor connector/the wires leading into it. My friends Jake and @Need2pu came over tonight and pulled every connector/sensor related to that fuse including the accelerator pedal. We KOEO and plugged in each connection til the fuse popped. Came down to the APP connection, primary o2 and crank position sensor left when the fuse stopped popping with KOEO cycle. Last one we tried was the crank position sensor and that was it. I gotta cut that connector off and splice in a few inches of new wire and a new connector, but all will be well after.

For funnies, here's all the fuses we blew tonight.

 

Wow, that's a wild issue. Never thought the CPS wiring would blow the main fuse.

 

Glad you found it man. I for sure have never seen that issue before.

 

We had a local that had the same issue, but it was an exposed wire from a wire tuck being done that led to the cam position sensor. He was actually one of the friends that helped find it. I'll post some wiring diagrams from all data in here later that show everything tied to that fuse. There's a lot of random shit you'd never expect.
[doublepost=1462921947][/doublepost]






The vapor canister under the car and main gas tank is also connected to that fuse

@Raider @Maisonvi
[doublepost=1462931565][/doublepost]Also, the issue with the crank sensor is that the clip that holds it to the back of the block was broken. And it was sagging and rubbing on the axle, which exposed 2 of the wires and they shorted. Fixed it tonight!

 

Had a grave yard of fuses haha. But this is not the first time a little short has blew that fuse a million times... so for all you people that are reading this in years and months to come do this: pull every single last connector off its sensor, put power to the car, and plug one in at a time and watch the fuse. you'll quickly find your issue. glad to see ol trusty rusty back on the road!

 

i have to laugh, to save on fuses we use a paper clip with a loop. plug one sensor in at a time and watch for the glow.