HOW-TO: replace MS6 transfer case

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 6 How-To' started by Matt@DM, Feb 26, 2020.

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  1. Matt@DM

    Matt@DM Approved Vendor

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    How to replace MS6 transfer case

    To begin, this how-to shows how to replace the transfer case, without removing the subframe, just dropping it a little. If I were to do this again, I would remove the subframe completely, just for easier access getting the TC out of and into the car, and can save time.

    Tools needed:

    Socket wrench:
    10mm
    12mm
    14mm
    17mm
    19mm
    19mm deep socket
    21mm
    23mm
    25mm or 26mm?
    Many extensions
    Swivel sockets
    Breaker bar
    TQ wrench

    Wrenches:
    14mm
    17mm

    Allens:
    5mm
    6mm
    10mm

    Screwdrivers
    Hammer
    Sledge hammer
    Brass bar
    Pry bar

    Special tools:
    Coupler flange bar/brace
    Pulley puller







    Start by jacking up the car as high as possible, and supporting it on jackstands, or putting the car on a lift. If you don’t know how to properly do this, stop immediately and pay someone to work on your car.

    [​IMG]


    Remove the front wheels, 21mm, and remove the undertray splash shield, 10mm.

    Drain the transfer case of all fluids… or in our case metallic fluids with chunks of metal. First remove the 23mm fill plug, then the 24mm drain plug:

    [​IMG]


    ALL OF THIS IS DONE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE CAR, UNLESS NOTED.

    Remove the two brake caliper bracket bolts, 17mm. Hang caliper aside.

    [​IMG]


    Remove the ABS/wheel speed sensor from the knuckle, and hang aside, two 12mm bolts:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Remove the sway bar endlink from the knuckle on both sides of the car, 14mm 5mm allen.

    Remove the 2 lower ball joint nuts, 23mm. These are on tight, so get the breaker bar or impact gun ready.

    [​IMG]


    Once the nuts are loose, put them slightly back on the ball joints, as to not damage the threads while hammering.

    Hammer the nuts with a sledge, until the ball joint pops free. Once free, remove the nut, and pull the ball joint out from the knuckle.

    Remove the 17mm ball joint nut atop the knuckle, use a 6mm allen to prevent it from spinning and not coming loose. Repeat the same hammering procedure as the lower ball joints to remove the top ball joint from the knuckle.

    [​IMG]


    Remove the 17mm bolt and nut connecting the LCA to the strut cup(circled in green):

    [​IMG]


    Remove the tie rod from the knuckles on both sides of the car, 17mm. Use same hammering procedure, as before:

    [​IMG]


    Now the knuckle and axle assembly should be free of the suspension components, and the axle can be removed.

    Pop the axle joint from the transfer case using a a hammer and brass bar… really wish we got a pic of this, but here’s how to do it:

    [​IMG]


    Remove the axle from the car.

    Remove the oil cooler bolt from the transfer case, 10mm allen, swivel socket, and lots of extensions:

    [​IMG]


    Note the two rubber seals on the cooler, replace later if necessary. Support the cooler, up away from the TC, using a cable tie, or rope:

    [​IMG]
    Pic shown with TC removed.


    Remove the four 14mm nuts and bolts that attach the driveshaft to the transfer case. Let the driveshaft hang aside:

    [​IMG]


    Remove any heat shields bolted to the TC, and catalytic converter bracket, if equipped.



    Time to drop the subframe. If you wish to remove it completely, here’s a list of what else to remove:

    Driverside 2 lower ball joints
    Driverside 17mm bolt and nut connecting the LCA to the strut cup.
    Power steering rack from subframe, two 19mm bolts, support rack to prevent it from dropping

    Everything else will be outlined with dropping the subframe.

    Remove the splash shields where they are attached to the subframe, five plastic clips IIRC:

    Two on passengerside:

    [​IMG]


    Three on driverside:

    [​IMG]


    Remove the brackets holding the power steering lines to the subframe, four 10mm bolts(there may be an additional bolt in the area under the pump):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Unbolt the RMM from the transmission, 19mm:

    [​IMG]


    Time to lower the subframe, get some jack stands, or blocks of wood to support the subfrome, once unbolted from the car.

    Remove the four 17mm bolts that attach chassis brackets to the subframe(marked in red), then remove the two 19mm subframe nuts:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Remove the two bolts that support the front of the subframe, 19mm deep socket:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Support the subframe, or remove the subframe:

    [​IMG]


    If you’ve removed the subframe, ignore this next step, if not get your coupler flange brace/bar, and pulley puller ready. The driveshaft flange needs to be removed in order to have clearance to maneuver the TC out of the car, since the flange will interfere with the subframe and downpipe exhaust.

    Remove the 25mm or 26mm? nut connecting the flange to the TC.

    [​IMG]


    Put the transmission in gear, connect your flange brace to the flange(I made one out of steel bar, with holes drilled 2 7/8” apart), get a breaker bar on the nut, and remove the nut. Simply putting the car into gear won’t work, the nut is on TIGHT, and I was able to turn the flange trying to loosen the nut.

    [​IMG]


    Here’s a pic of my bar:

    [​IMG]


    Remove the flange from the TC. Sometimes it will just slide right off. If not, use a pulley puller:

    [​IMG]


    If you’ve decided to drop the subframe, ignore the above steps for pulling the flange.

    Time to remove the TC.

    Begin with removing the two 14mm bolts securing the TC to the TC bracket(blue). Then remove the four 14mm bolts securing the TC bracket to the block(yellow):

    [​IMG]


    Using some extensions and swivel sockets, remove the two 17mm bolts that go into the TC from the driverside of the car:

    [​IMG]


    Remove the three remaining 17mm bolts from the passangerside, there are two by the RMM, and one up top:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Pull the TC straight out from the transmission, careful not to damage the seal on the transmission, and remove the TC from the car(note: some transmission fluid will drain out from the transmission once the TC is removed),:

    [​IMG]


    Install the TC.

    Slide the TC into the transmission, being careful of the seal on the transmission, and turn the TC so that it goes into the alignment holes, and bolt holes align.

    Install is reverse of removal. Don’t forget to put fluids in! Torque specs, and important info:

    Note: TQ spec for the flange nut is 124-166FT-LBS, and the 14mm nuts for the drive shaft are 36.2-42.7FT-LBS

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Will update soon with info for replacing the MS6 TC with a CX-7 TC... just waiting on pics.
     
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  2. RiceCarGuy248

    RiceCarGuy248 Greenie N00B Member

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    Interested to see the specifics of using a CX7 pto, what you need to watch for when buying one and installing.
     
    RiceCarGuy248, via an iPhone, Apr 11, 2020
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  3. matt_krebs

    matt_krebs Greenie Member

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    I don't know why are people disliking your comment. I came to this forum to ask just that!! From what I see viewing the Jim Ellis store they are identical yet I hear of people having to switch seals, intermediate shafts, and driveshaft flanges. Also, there are reports of some CX 7 transfer cases (front differentials) having riveted driveshaft flanges making them impossible to swap--and therefore unusable in a Speed 6.

    I am confused as to how these issues are possible since the listed links below (to the Jim Ellis Mazda Parts page) show that the Speed 6 front differential is the same part number (2700B) as the CX 7 front differential.
    2007 Speed 6 Front Differential
    2007 CX 7 Front Differential

    There is definitely some confusion if you look at 2012+ models of the CX 7 because there seem to be two different variants. They both have the same part numbers but have different preliminary numbers. This is hard to explain so here are links to the two versions: Version 1, Version 2. The kicker....neither of which (along with the 2007-2011 models) appear to have any of the problems listed above. Therefore, I don't know why I have heard other people talking about them.

    My transfer case in my Speed 6 is making a grinding sound that has been progressively getting worse so I am really on the hunt for a cheap alternative to buying a new "Speed 6" labeled one. I hope some people on this page can clarify what really needs to be watched out for and what the differences actually are.
     
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  4. matt_krebs

    matt_krebs Greenie Member

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    Also, I should include a copy of the forum post from MazdaspeedForums.org that sparked my interest in this topic. Sadly because they closed recently I can't provide a "working" direct link. Attached is a pdf I saved of the page through the use of the wayback machine. You will notice several of the pictures mentioned later in the thread can not be viewed because one had to be logged in to view image links on MazdaspeedForums.org and that can not be replicated using the wayback machine--to the best of my knowledge. For those who are interested, or believe you can get more information, below is the original link to the thread.

    http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f111/how-make-cx7-transfer-case-fit-your-speed6-125736/
     
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  5. StreetSpeed6

    StreetSpeed6 Diesel Slayer Silver Member

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    Hey Matt I came across this while trying to figure out what the bolt specs were for the tc bracket that bolts the the block. I was hoping you possibly would know and/ or be able to find out for me? Thanks!
     
    StreetSpeed6, via a mobile device, Aug 26, 2020
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  6. matt_krebs

    matt_krebs Greenie Member

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    Sadly, I do not have my removed transfer case with me as I have moved since making this post, or else I would give you the exact spec. I do have the workshop manual though and know that the tightening torque is 31 - 45 ft*lbs (page 4731). I am sorry I couldn't be more help but here is a link to all of the documentation I have on the car--maybe you can find some answers in there. The page number I referenced is from the file called "2007_Mazda6_FSM.pdf" inside of the "0607MS6.zip".

    Also if that doesn't work this link to Jim Ellis Mazda Parts may be helpful. I see that it includes the bracket in the lower-left corner and you could probably find the OEM part number for those bolts at least.
     
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  7. StreetSpeed6

    StreetSpeed6 Diesel Slayer Silver Member

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    Thanks man I actually did find the part numbers on Jim Ellis but was hoping not to spend $60 for the 6 bolts lol
     
    StreetSpeed6, via a mobile device, Sep 1, 2020
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