JohnnyTightlips Build "Maximum Carnage"

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 Build Diaries' started by JohnnyTightlips, Oct 9, 2018.

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  1. StreetSpeed6

    StreetSpeed6 Welder Silver Member

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    StreetSpeed6, via an iPhone, May 30, 2019
  2. Easter Bunny

    Easter Bunny Professional Engineer Greenie Member

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    They are not interchangeable
     
    Easter Bunny, via an iPhone, May 31, 2019
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  3. StreetSpeed6

    StreetSpeed6 Welder Silver Member

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    Didn’t figure they were.. thanks man
     
    StreetSpeed6, via an iPhone, May 31, 2019
  4. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Gold Member

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    Update:

    I was cleaning up my exhaust tunnel as the OEM stuff is falling apart and makes an itchy fiberglass mess. While down there @Sho advised me to make a shield for the power steering lines. This is close to where the dump pipe will be and I am waiting on block stuff so might as well keep trucking.

    I have a bunch of scrap license plates and wanted to use my rivnut tool so here we go.
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    I think it turned out pretty well and does not really flop around or anything.

    I also got my order of OEM parts from Tasca, took forever to arrive and one of the diamond crank washers is bent "sad face" will have to get them to send another.
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    I decided to "flush" the heater core while I had easy access. I used some radiator flush stuff from walmart and am letting it soak in there for a few hours. I will then flush with distilled water.
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    My Rockauto injector kits arrived so I decided to clean up and put the new goodies on them. Thanks @KiwiFlavor for the cleaned injectors , love you long time. Here is a quick guide on how all the seals sit.

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    This is the order they go onto the injector , these are old bits but you get the idea.
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    The concave part of the rings go down toward the injector bottom you can see how the injector is concave and they sit nicely in the groove.
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    Here is a finished injector with CS Seal.
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    That's all for now, just have to keep plugging away at little things.
     
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  5. KiwiFlavor

    KiwiFlavor Silver Member

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    @JohnnyTightlips rove you rong time.

    This also makes me want to make that heat shield and sleeve my power steering hoses.
     
  6. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Gold Member

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    Mini Update:

    The machine shop turned my stuff around in a week, which was pretty wild as they said 3-4 weeks. They did a great job from what I can tell and I am optimistically confident in their work. The guy gave me a tour of their shop and they were working on some really cool stuff. Was neat to see it all and he gave some tips for getting the parts prepped and for first start up. If anyone else is near here I recommend these guys. It cost me $615 to get the block bored,honed, cleaned crank cleaned polished, rotating assembly balanced, Pistons and Rods put together, head cleaned and decked. http://www.abrahamsmachine.com/

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    Last night I got it on the stand.
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    As the parts are all in spec I ended up order standard size bearings. Kevin at Oddball performance recommended Clevite AL Mains and H Rod Bearings. Rock auto had the best price.
    1 @ MAHLE/CLEVITE MS2245A Crankshaft Main Bearing
    4 @ MAHLE/CLEVITE CB1925H Connecting Rod Bearing

    It won't be until next week that those arrive so I plan to start getting the head back together. I will be cleaning it some more and then lapping the valves. This video is perfect and I will be following his steps. He is the same guy that made an excellent video on Cylinder Head Porting & Polishing

    A lot of the upcoming task will be tedious and require some focus so it will be slow going for me with the kids being wild all the time and working late I don't want to mess something up.
     
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  7. StreetSpeed6

    StreetSpeed6 Welder Silver Member

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    I bought the same bearings yesterday off Rock Auto. Great minds think alike man! Everything is looking awesome keep it up!
     
    StreetSpeed6, via an iPhone, Jun 7, 2019
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  8. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Gold Member

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    I believe it was a Fisher spider. Sorry that reply took so long lol.
     
    JohnnyTightlips, via a mobile device, Jun 9, 2019
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  9. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Gold Member

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    Update:

    Spent like 4+ hours lapping the valves. It took forever but I wanted this to be done right and I did not want to mess with it ever again "fingers crossed" I followed the video I posted before. Here are the steps I did.

    1. Clean Valve and head valve part
    2. Apply coarse grit valve compound , Lube valve stem with oil and few drops in head
    3. Grind until sound changes and starts to smooth, like 2-4 min "follow video"
    4. Clean Valve and head, Repeat the above process 3 times for Coarse and the 3 times for Fine, then clean and lube and check to squeaks "watch the video" PRO TIP if you put a tiny bit of oil on the suction for the lapping tool it will help it stick better, clean both surfaces before sticking it to the valve and press it down until it bottoms out on it.
    5. Before putting the head back together clean it all again with brake clean and make sure the valves go back to the spots they were mated with on the head, otherwise you did it all in vain. "check for leaks too" if leaking then do more work SON
    Valve on the left has been lapped. It looks like their are lines through it and there might be microscopic lines but it is smooth as butter and uniform.
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    Left side is complete here too.
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    All done, kill me now. Still need to clean and assemble but glad to be past that. If you are thinking of doing this yourself it is really just a giant time suck, not difficult at all. Take breaks so you don't fuck it up or miss something.
    [​IMG]
     
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  10. StreetSpeed6

    StreetSpeed6 Welder Silver Member

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    They are lapping my valves in the shop as we speak/post lol Looks good man it will all be worth it!
     
    StreetSpeed6, via an iPhone, Jun 10, 2019
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  11. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Gold Member

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    Update:

    I got all the valve springs seated and detents in place. The "Lisle 36200 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer" worked amazing. I actually would suggest getting the dual Lisle 36050 kit if the smaller one is smaller then the 36200 as the removal tool is almost too big and can score the bucket walls if you are not careful. So if anyone buys the Lisle 36050 let me know.

    1. Put a rag under the valve so it can't move.
    2. Oil and install spring.
    3. Oil and Install retainer.
    4. Put keepers into retainer and then press down with your thumb to seat them they won't go all the way but will grab the stem a bit and get in place.
    5. Now Use the Lisle tool and line it up with the middle of the valve at this time you also want to line up the spring so it is centered. Push the tool down so it sits flat against the retainer.
    6. Hit the Lisle tool with one good wack of the rubber mallot, it may take a few tries but a solid hit should do it.
    7. Profit and rev to 8k

    Step 5 Pic
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    Step 6 Pic "not in pic but make sure you press it down flat against the retainer" youtube has some vids too
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    Step 6 Pic
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    Now it is time to start building the short block. Not sure when I will be able to start on that.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2019 at 7:30 AM
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  12. Maisonvi

    Maisonvi Silver Member

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    I have to say, this is all pretty impressive work, and your documentation is the kinda stuff that this forum needs. Good work.

    Now I want to go see if I can save/rebuild my fire motor just to do it from the ground up by hand like this.
     
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  13. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Gold Member

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    Thanks for the awesome feedback. I am trying to make this build as helpful as I can without it being too much. I could probably break it into mini how to's at some point.
     
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  14. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Gold Member

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    Update:
    My dump pipe came in and this thing is BEAUTIFUL. Instant Boner, probably the nicest looking thing on my car. DTP Fab on facebook is the shit, thanks Jim!
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    Cranking it - Fun times with my Crank @alexwlwsn
    I got some time last night to get the crank installed. This was not very difficult but you need to be a little methodical and take your time. The machine shop had checked clearances so I did not do any plasti gauge "JUST GONNA SEND IT"

    Here is the procedure I followed. This video was a HUGE help. The bearings I used are Clevite MS-2245A

    1. While you have the bare block there make sure you install the oil squirters and the BSD kit plug. I used red loctite on the bsd plug and some blue on the squirters. I do not know if that is needed but it makes me feel better. I did have to buy 1 new squirter from the previous engine exploding. I cleaned out the other squirters with brake clean. I did not use tq specs just nice and tight, don't go wild they are not very big bolts.[​IMG]
    2. Now it is time to clean shit and clean it REAL GOOD. I used Naptha to clean everything. I also used break clean to spray out the oil passages on the crank. Clean all bearings and Clean all Bearing surfaces. Clean the crank Main Bearing surfaces, you can leave the rod ones as those should remain oiled until you are ready for the rods to go in. Use multiple rags and take your time. Clean motor = happy motor. The machine shop recommended I use Scotts Pro-Grade shop towels as they are cheaper and low/no lint. Do this, do not use shitty paper towels. I found them cheap in the paint aisle at Farm and Fleet[​IMG]
    3. Now that all the surfaces are clean you can start installing the bearings on the cradle and into the block. Watch that video and other videos to get a good idea on how to do this. Clean them again before install just to be sure. You want them to go in dry "that's not what she said" The ends will be flush and the bottoms centered. The Bearings that have the groove in them go into the block, the ones that are just flat go into the cradle. Another clue is that the block bearings have holes for the oil too. The thrust washer main bearing goes in the middle you can't really mess it up if you pay attention.[​IMG] [​IMG]
    4. Now that the bearings are in place and everything is clean. Lube them up with a decent coat of assembly lube. Don't go wild but a nice coat will do. I forgot to take a pic but watch the video I linked. I used the Red Line assembly lube and it is NICE. Crazy smooth and the crank spins with ease. It also had great reviews. You only need to lube the bearings the crank will get lubed when it ins set in there. [​IMG]
    5. Now triple check that the main journals are clean on the crank and set it in the block. Be gentle and it is heavy so be aware. Once it is in there you can install your studs. OEM uses bolts but I do not like messing with torque to yield so I just got the ARP MAIN Stud Kit the instructions are on their site as well. The video also covers this very well. You will want to thread all the studs in so that they bottom out. Use a wrench and tighten to like 2 ft lbs, you are really just making sure they are bottomed out. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN and DO NOT LUBE. Now loosen each on and then tighten again by hand , double check they are all hand tight.
    6. You can now lube up the bearings on the cradle and slowly drop the cradle down onto the crank. Make sure it is in the right direction I forgot to take a pic but you can figure it out same with the the crank. Now get that ARP lube and generously lube up the washers, put all the washers in place. Now put lube inside the threads of the nuts and tighten all nuts down by hand until they bottom out. You will want to start in the middle and tighten in 20 ft lb increments in a circular pattern "check video" until you reach 60 ft lbs then double check that each is at 60ft lbs. So tighten all to 20ft lb, then to 40 ft lb then 60 ft lb. Clean off excessive ARP lube.
    7. You should be able to spin the crank by hand now and breathe a sigh of relief that it is in the block and you no longer have to worry about it sitting on a shelf.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2019 at 12:06 PM
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  15. alexwlwsn

    alexwlwsn Gold Member

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    Usually when I tell someone "I got the crank in last night" and "#feelsgood" I am talking about something else....
     
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