Just change it all at once? I have a problem.

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 Suspension & Brakes' started by DubC, Mar 5, 2021.

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  1. ToyCop

    ToyCop Greenie Member

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    I used the newer Focus top hats when I did my suspension. They are a little more robust than the Mazda version.
     
    ToyCop, via an iPhone, Mar 13, 2021
    #21
  2. DubC

    DubC Gold Member

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    Think I read that somewhere that they’d work. But I never know. Ordered oem versions. Hope they hold up as well as current ones have.


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    DubC, via a mobile device, Mar 14, 2021
    #22
  3. Awafrican

    Awafrican Moderator Gold Member

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    Yup Moog rear end links suck to install, only reason I'll be using them again is because of the lifetime warranty. Last time was able to get them to seat with a pry bar on the back "nut" then impact gun to zip it down oh man I'm not looking forward to that coming off... It'll be a cut off I'm sure
     
    Awafrican, via a mobile device, Mar 15, 2021
    #23
  4. DubC

    DubC Gold Member

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    how often do end links take a shit? i know some can be random but...once you get a bigger bar and some new suspension does that tend to wear them out quicker? or is it cuz you're hammering the car in x-cross or somethin?
     
  5. SharksInSpace

    SharksInSpace Planets and shit. Silver Member

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    It really depends. Honestly, just go on RockAuto and check out their cheap options. Look at pics to make sure they are oem-style installation with a hex-fitting on top, and then choose your preference. They're so cheap and easy to replace (as long as you don't get Moog style) that it isn't a huge deal when they go bad.
     
  6. Awafrican

    Awafrican Moderator Gold Member

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    seems t be every 2-3 years, upgraded sway bar AND POS roads with pot holes everywhere
     
  7. DubC

    DubC Gold Member

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    OK! so finally got around to installing these over the last 2 days (yeah i'm slow). also did the rear sway bar whilst i was under there. god damn some of those bolts reeeeally didn't wanna come out.

    anyways, so here is my issue (potentially). i'm not sure i have the springs/height adjusted correctly. can someone with knowledge of these please give these a lookover??

    when i pulled the rear springs out of the box the adjustment rings were loose on one of them. i then assumed i needed to measure it out, per spec, and adjust each side.. the adjustments were pretty easy to measure with a digital caliper and the booklet instructions were easy to follow by picture (top of spring rubber ring to bottom adjustment ring). here is the current setting:
    [​IMG]

    the struts were a different story. i was pretty unimpressed with their illustration for the adjustment as they had the range (225-240mm) but the lower portion of said range was X mm below the stop tab. no numbers actually printed. i called bilstein just to be sure and the guy said "just set them where you think they should be. you'll need to adjust them anyways." well...that was unhelpful.

    then i was told by @JohnnyTightlips that likely they were set right out of the box (the rings were tight as i recall) but i adjusted them anyways. so here is what they are now:

    [​IMG]

    i took the car for a 10 mile test drive, varying the road types, speeds, acceleration, etc. there did seem to be some clunking noises when going over bumps (even backing out of the driveway) from maybe the left front? it's somewhat hard to tell. also i'm not sure what is actually a new noise i'll need to get used to from having stiffer suspension and hitting a bump vs a "oh shit that's a bad noise" noise, like bottoming out.

    anyways, any help would be appreciated. i was planning to run these about 200 miles before getting an alignment.

    thanks all
    [​IMG]
     
  8. SharksInSpace

    SharksInSpace Planets and shit. Silver Member

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    I just started with mine set to the middle of the adjustment range, drove around the neighborhood to settle it, then dialed it in to my taste from there. Didn't get too scientific with it.

    For clunks, start with a check over all the bolts again, especially the strut mounts and end links. You want to wait to torque the links down until the suspension is back under load, either car on the ground or on ramps.
     
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  9. DubC

    DubC Gold Member

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    That’s a bit of my problem. I can’t tell if where I have it set is within that range.

    I’ll try to check the torque on the end link bolt. That’s gonna be a bitch getting up in there with the tire on it.


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    DubC, via a mobile device, May 12, 2021
    #29
  10. DubC

    DubC Gold Member

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    turns out the end link bolt on the passenger side was not tightened. that was amazingly stupid of me. i thought i checked everything but nae. i also adjusted the springs and in essence raised the ride a little. turns out, i found out after i was already done, that i had them set already to the min height in spec. der. will change that back later. a test drive yielded no clunking noises and a normal ride (albeit stiffer). woot! thanks for the help @SharksInSpace and @JohnnyTightlips
     
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  11. DubC

    DubC Gold Member

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    one more question...did anyone that installed, well, any aftermarket suspension that lowered the car, also install adjustable rear camber or toe arms? i have not done that and don't want to ruin my tires. is this now necessary?
     
  12. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    You’ll be fine. If you slam the car you’ll gain more negative camber but with a minor lowering it should be OK. It’s not ideal but it’ll be fine. I personally run rear adjustable camber arms because track duty and dialing in alignment. Choice is yours.
     
    gotovato, via an iPhone, May 13, 2021
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  13. DubC

    DubC Gold Member

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    What arms are you running? All seem to be about $200


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    DubC, via a mobile device, May 13, 2021
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  14. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    They all do the same thing. I’m on the SPC arms. If you care about a properly dialed in alignment I’d suggest doing them. If you don’t care(99.8% of people don’t care) then you will be just fine without them.
     
    gotovato, via an iPhone, May 13, 2021
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  15. DubC

    DubC Gold Member

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    I just don’t want to ruin my tires prematurely as they were not cheap. I’ll spend $200 to save $400 in rear tires if needed.


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    DubC, via a mobile device, May 13, 2021
    #35
  16. SharksInSpace

    SharksInSpace Planets and shit. Silver Member

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    SPC and their clones are the best option for rear cambers arms. I actually have a brand new pair in my garage that I'm undecided on installing...I need to get my alignment checked and see how far out of whack it is on the stock arms at current height.
     
  17. ToyCop

    ToyCop Greenie Member

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    With the Eibach springs I have t had any tire or alignment issues with the arms. I’ll be going in for another alignment soon since I’m back on summers. Fairly sure it will be within spec
     
    ToyCop, via an iPhone, May 13, 2021
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  18. Kevin Mobley

    Kevin Mobley Greenie N00B Member

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    I have a totally stock 2013, 70k and am finally getting around to upgrading my suspension, It's a second vehicle/DD. I want coilovers and am looking for at least an 1" drop, but no more than 1.5", nothing real low. I've done lots of research and have considered KW, ST, H&R, and Bilstein. I've always had great experience with Bilstein and am leaning heavily to them. I would prefer B16, but they seem hard to find and I'm not totally sure on correct part number for them (please let me know if known). Rockauto has BILSTEIN 48121262 B16 for $1402 assuming they are the correct ones for the vehicle. The B14 are my second choice. I'm wondering how much drop you I can expect with the Bilsteins and overall long term reviews?
     
  19. Kevin Mobley

    Kevin Mobley Greenie N00B Member

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    Follow on question between the B16 and B14. Is it worth getting the B16 as I probably just set them and leave them? I'm fine with the $500 difference as long as there is benefit. I will be adding a CS RSB too.
     
  20. gotovato

    gotovato Silver Member

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    I have the rockauto B16’s. They are legit. I love them. I went from the ST coils to the b16’s and it was night and day. That said I’m a track guy with a track focused build. For you, and for most, the B14’s will be fantastic with no dampening to mess with. The b14’s also have slightly softer spring rates I believe.
     
    gotovato, via an iPhone, Jun 5, 2021
    #40
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