Looking into a Speed6

Hello fellow motor enthusiasts, tomorrow I'll be looking at a Mazdaspeed 6 with 132,000 miles. After reading at countless threads and vids, it seems like timing chain and related components are common issues if prior owner didn't service their vehicle..with that in mind, ill be hearing for any unusual timing noises (will upgrade the timing components regardless, if I buy it). Moreover, ill be checking for clutch wear and the usual (oil leaks, cv joints and suspension). I'm a wrench monkey with a 2008 mustang bullitt all bolt on with cams (all maintenance and performance mods done myself) but I need something bigger as I got a new addition to the family. The Mazdaspeed 6 fits the bill, sleeper and quick. my ultimate goal will be to max out the ko4 with supporting mods and call it a day..
so I need a good starting point and suggestions on what too look for...thanks in advance.

 

Power steering likes to take a shit and leak all over. Rear calipers can stick from time to time. You will likely want to do a valve cleaning and other normal high mile maintenance items. @Sho Can also point you in the right direction.

 

@JohnnyTightlips thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately the car was sold prior to me going and checking it out. definitely love the uniqueness of the speed6.

 

Use my how to.
https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/what-to-look-for-when-buying-a-used-mazdaspeed.10009/

 

Compression test is #1 IMO. 180+ across all is what I would want unless plan to pull engine to rebuild/replace. Idk that you will find one with 180s at that milage...I have seen rare occurrence where compression and leakdown test fine yet car was burning qt oil every 1k with no smoke. Idk how. But replaced engine on that one and IIRC the issue was ovaled cylinder. So guess rings sealed during comp test but not during normal operation. Idk. Feel that is a rare case so still think 180s on comp test tell you at least engine good.
The rest of it you can fix (for the most part). Plan for a new clutch at 130xxx along with other stuff mentioned in raiders thread. Look at rear diff for sure as a sheared bolt is one thing but a cracked housing is another. Both pita but one is easier to fix. Im not sure I now anyone that has fixed rear diff where bolt hole cracked as its cast aluminum.
Good luck.

 

Thanks for all the replies but with this used car market, the car sold just before I got there....damn. I'll be on the look out for another one. Thanks once again.

 

The used market is terrible. I would not think affecting MS6s much but IDK maybe is as I have not looking at prices. Being how rare that are its hard to find a deal. Most left are ether junk, overpriced or...not running. Which is why I would go with a not running, for $1000 and buy a brand new gen2 long block PN L3DN-02-300F (~$3k+ship) along with axle/trans/PTO seals, clutch/FW and all other parts needed (including sending injectors out to be cleaned) to have a perfectly running MS6. And install a BNrs3 in it with a few other mods is under $10k for great car.

 

Is FS post still up? Im curious what you were looking at. if not what was price?

 

Here a screen shot. They seller told me that he got out of work late in the night and I didn't want to check out the car at night. The plan was to check it out early morning; next day I called him and sold the car that night.

 

Hard to tell but looks clean. If find another certainly post and tag me if want as will try to help.

 

Thanks, greatly appreciate the offer. If I see one, I know who to contact now. Have a great rest of the day.