Need help with timing issue

Ok so I really need some help fast with a timing issue. I blew the head gasket and am getting ready to take off all the timing components and figured I would check it before hand. What I found was at top dead center the 2 cam lobes on the HPFP side are at a perfect 45 and everything I'm seeing says that is backwards. I have verified this like 50 times and it is definitely set like this. I have been driving this car for like 6 months and has always felt it was under performing but wasn't sure. Can anyone tell me if it was accidentally set this way and is drivable or did it just manage to perfectly jump timing and land exactly 180 degrees backwards. Timing chain is not loose. If I set it back the way it's supposed to be will I need a retune? Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Check this post out. https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.p...eed-3-mazdaspeed-6-cx-7-vvt-the-roku-way.855/

 

How are you finding top dead center? The crank makes two revolutions for every one revolution of the camshaft

 

To answer your question directly; I DO NOT know that this engine can run with the Cams 180* out from the Crank.
I do, However, know that a Ford 302 will start run like that, and a Chevy 350 will start and run like that, both will be low on power and both will have more issues in the higher RPM band. So it is possible, I would say much more possible that the timing jumping perfectly 180* out.
Let me ask a clarifying question; When you say "What I found was at top dead center the 2 cam lobes on the HPFP side are at a perfect 45 and everything I'm seeing says that is backwards."
Do you mean that BOTH the Intake (HPFP side) AND the Exhaust side are at perfect 45* but pointing away from each other rather than in towards each other, as in the pic below?

I think what Raider wants you to see (other than the whole post on how to do the job) is this;
"Now, look at your Lobes... these things here on your cams:"


Note that under that rag, yes that rag, there really is something to see. Look closely it is the timing plate.
He used the TDC pin (usually comes with the Timing plate) This will make sure that you are at the Correct TDC for cam timing.

Notice the Bolt hole shown above under the crank bolt.
In the below pic you will see a bolt in that hole, this is important.

If the TDCP is in and the crank is against it, and you can put a bolt through the harmonic balancer in to the front cover, your crank is in the right place. If the Cam lobs are in the position shown int the first picture and you can wiggle the timing plate in, your Valve timing is correct.

I notice that you said in other Posts that you had a P2188 code, did that get resolved, was it resolved with tuning by Freektune?
You mentioned that you were doing boost leak test, What were the results of that?
What PSI did you test to? Something 10% or more higher than your Planned boost?
I also notice that you said in other Posts that this is a "Built Engine". Is this the first time you have opened the engine up to look at anything? Was it already in the car when you got it?
What exactly do you mean by "Built Engine"?
The P2188, may have been an indication that there was an issue with Valve timing.
Boost is lower than expected that may be an indication that there was an issue with Valve timing.
IF you have put the engine in the correct position to check valve timing, and it is 180* out. It is More likely that the engine was built with the timing 180* out than it jumped timing to 180* out.
It is very unlikely that BOTH cams Jumped Exactly 180* out.
Please Make for Imprint sure that the crank is in the correct position to check the Valve timing.
I say it that way because, you can put the crank and Harmonic Balancer in the right orientation, then by loosening the bolts to the Cam gears, put the cams in the correct position. The issue here is replacing the friction washers.

You also asked about Big Turbo Boost numbers, these numbers would be based on your particular goals with the engine and car (daily/race or something in between) you are using the CST5, Cork Sport says it is good for 30+ PSI, and I believe them. Of course that requires a lot of other things be upgraded, especially fuel, I bring this up because of the P2188 code you had. What boost pressure were you running before blowing the head gasket? Do you know what AFR you were running? After making sure of your Valve timing, I would check the head torque, do you have head studs or stock bolts?

Good luck, and please let us know what the outcome is.
I am very interested to know if your engine was running well enough to be driven and tuned with the cams 180* out.

 

Did you ever figure this Out?