Overboost, misfires, AFR all over the place

swap coilpacks between 1 and 3, see if the misfire moves. Could be bad coil.

 

Good point, will do that and report back.

Also, going to put the bolt back in right now, and noticed something, am I tripping, or is the top port of the Tial EWG supposed to be plumbed to the EBCS? Right now, it has nothing in it. Trying to trace the lines off my EBCS but it's all obscured, might have to remove some stuff.

I bought this car off a friend of mine who did not do any of the work himself, and he was the one who had it Dramatuned, just trying to sort it out now.

 

It depends on what mode it's running in; best bet is to check the documentation for the EWG and see if that's a valid method of operation for, say, 3 port EBCS (pretty sure it is; trust but verify).

 

Seems like EBCS is plumbed for an interrupt setup, so top port would just vent. Put the bolt back in with a lock washer and sealant on the bolt to make sure it holds, car boosts appropriately now (still between 18.5-21PSI depending on RPM). Ordered an e-tune from PD and will be doing a boost leak test tomorrow, as I haven't got around to it yet, hoping that will fix the variance in boost pressure I am seeing, as I do remember a pretty consistent 19PSI before these problems cropped up.

Getting a p0300 instead of a p0303 now, and it only shows up after a morning cold start, if I clear if after the car is warm, it doesn't show up until the next cold start, hoping the retune will fix this. Other than that, everything is looking good! All other CELs have disappeared and have not returned thus far, and car is running pretty smooth again.

I will say, one thing that is bothering me is that as of about 2 weeks ago, I've noticed a metallic tapping/ticking noise from under my car (and can feel the vibrations of it happening through my feet) when starting off in 1st gear, and sometimes in second at low rpms, or when turning. This noise goes away in higher gears/higher rpms. Checked suspension, looks good (CV joints are good too), and can't find anything noticeably loose under the car that could cause this. Not really sure where it's coming from. I should mention the power steering in this car is gone, I assume the pump died, but maybe the rack is having problems? Could explain the noise?

Only other thing wrong with the car is a small leak from the rear main seal, which I plan to do when I replace my clutch soon. Anything else I should do/look at while down there for the clutch job/any common points of failure on these cars that I should look out for beyond the timing components?

Thank you so much for your help so far! I am entirely new to this platform and these forums, and this has been a great experience so far, everyone has been super helpful.

 

Do you feel the tapping in the clutch pedal

 

When you post a code, post the description at least too; most people don't have them memorized and it will save literally everyone reading your post from having to look it up.

If the ticking you're hearing stays in line with vehicle speed and not engine rpm, it's probably something transmission related; only other time I've heard of something like this was when a friend of mine went through his transmission trying to figure out something very similar and found that his diff had part of a tooth missing. Easy enough fix.

Time will tell, just be patient and tackle things one issue at a time if at all possible.

 

Sorry about that, p0300 is random/multiple cylinder misfire detected.

It's is consistent with car speed, but goes away after a second or two when starting from a stop, and doesn't come back until I stop and then start driving again, like at a stop sign or a light.

I will tackle one issue at a time.

I do not, it sort of feels like it's coming from directly under the car, and you can hear it, it's decently loud.

I do have to replace the clutch soon though, if you have any recommendations. It's decently worn and I can hear the throw out bearing is worn when I leave the pedal out in neutral at idle. Flywheel also makes some noise sometimes. Car sounds like a siren in reverse lol

 

If you have it up on jackstands, spin the tire and see if it still clicks. If it does, it's likely diff damage, probably chipped like my friends was.

 

If it is diff damage, I am assuming a replacement is necessary. Any good aftermarket diffs or should I go OEM?

 

I don't know of any aftermarket gearsets, just LSDs (which use the existing gears). I guess the appropriate term would be final drive.

 

By the way, I changed diff fluid, transfer case fluid and tranny fluid about 10,000 miles ago, tranny and diff were good, transfer case plug had some extremely fine metal power stuck to the plug. Any cause for concern?

 

New Basemap from PD flashed, but car is running super rough. AFR too lean in all gears (perfect at idle). Car stutters and hesitates a lot in 2nd gear and up until around 4800rpm.

New CEL: P0069: Manifold absolute pressure - barometric Pressure correlation.

Enki said this is due to an aftermarket MAP sensor that is unaccounted for.

Got exact MAP sensor model/numbers and sent to will@PD in case I sent the wrong info.

Flashed old DT tune but car is still running rough even though prior to flashing the PD tune it was running fine on this tune.

Assuming MAF has to relearn for a while, but still unusual behaviour I think. Will wait for an update from Will@PD but likely next steps will be a compression test and maybe MAF sensor replacement.

 

It is. You have a leak somewhere or told Will the wrong intake.

 

I did a DIY boost leak test. Should I get it over to a shop and do a smoke test?

 

Was it leaking? What did you use to do the test?

 

Used an abs 3.5" cap on the intake, plugged it with a valve stem and 30PSI pressure gauge from AutoZone. Pressurized to 20PSI at a gas station, didn't seem like there were any leaks, used some soapy water and a spray bottle to check, but shouldn't hear anything or see any bubbles.

 

Is there an airflow straightener in the intake?

 

Not that I could see.

 

That is...probably part of the issue. I personally use a honeycomb style one and it works very well; you can get these from several places but mine is from Treadstone. Pricey, but cleans up the airflow quite nice.

If you get one, when you go to install it, don't cut it; just crush the outside a little and let it friction fit (tightly) into the intake.

 

Will buy one from treadstone. Thanks for the tip.