PJB....not a sandwich.... here is whats inside

....This is not a how to.... This is how I did it....
I needed access to wire up ignition and illumination for a set of center dash pods. IGN1 or IGN2 are available on PJB and I personally don't like tapping into wire loom unless no other way. Bonus is the existing fuses for the needed circuits I was tapping into will be used. If you picked off wire loom the protection fuses would be the main fuses in engine compartment. By using the PJB picked circuits can be after smaller individual circuit fuses. The illumination could be picked up on the taillight wires heading toward back, but this is more elegant.
Wanted a excuse to break it open anyway. As you will see the PJB have loaded fuse holder interconnections that match only the chassis options (wire loom too) from factory. While maybe a loaded option model could be used, I bet Mazda didn't think so.
Just in case you have forgotten where it is

Here it sits, disconnected. You are going to need to remove ALL the fuses, so best to cover your destruction.

Now remove the 3 phillips screws. While resting on the "TOP" fuse side the clam-shell tangs need to be separated, push apart. I use handy plastic Popsicle sticks. Start on the edge as I have shown, the plastic will separate easier. Proceed along to the corners and first tangs on side then a LITTLE force with screwdriver wedging will cause the rest of the case to pop apart. No cement is used, just the tangs.

This is the processor and glue chips, the opposite side is the fuse interconnects. You can see the solder captivated males pins for the wire loom connectors are held into place. Kinda a nifty (cheap) way. At least not glued in place......nice

Its a double sided double layer board with the plastic spacer / insulator. Now if you were me, I found by using dvm which pins, lands, solder connections were the ones I wanted. Most of the fuse interconnections of interest will be accessible from that side. At least for my needs.
Not a guide, just here is how I soldered and created access for my connections.

Remember as Metal Members access to factory manuals...On Gen 1 the Mazda 3 2006 Wiring Diagrams
are priceless.
A hint of the needed diagrams, just a png so step up to << Metal Membership >>

 

Can't use an add-a-fuse?

 

Yes. Since I spent my career in electronics, electrical, instruments, industrial controls. That is a option. I admire others who use those much better than... bare flattened wires, even seen wrapped aluminum foil. I just don't or won't unless no option or selling it quick.
I mean no disrespect to others abilities but that's half assed to mine.

 

You're wiring gauges, not defusing a bomb. Shouldn't need more than an amp unless your shit is lit up with halogens, so those should be perfectly safe.

 

Removed I overreacted.

 

Lmao

Edit: I wasn't sure if this was supposed to be a how-to but I don't think many people want to do a modification to their cars that requires so much effort just to save a dollar or two. You'd only need two add-a fuse to get the whole power/lighting thing down and the suggestion of tapping the harness is a bit extreme, let alone pulling apart the fuse box.

Also, since I'm not a petty child, I won't be downvoting you simply because I don't agree with what you say. Have fun doing you though.

 

Neat solution to tapping power for some gauges. Definitely not for the average joe (add a fuse would work well for people like me).