Post ZZB Diaries CWP Gen1

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 3 Build Diaries' started by alexwlwsn, Jun 24, 2016.

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  1. Redline

    Redline I done fucked up for the last time. BANNED Greenie Member

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    Some AFR "hunting" is totally normal when coming to a stop, at least with Genpus. As I understand it, it's part of how the ECU tests the functionality of the O2 sensor and keeps everything in check. Can anyone speak to this on a Won? Also, did you specifically notice the same conditions before with different results? I'm not sure about you, but I know that I personally sometimes watch things like a hawk when I change my setup and am sometimes so hypervigilant that I make a "thing" out of something I find to be quite normal, but was oblivious to before I started watching extra carefully.
     
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  2. alexwlwsn

    alexwlwsn Greenie Member

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    I honestly can't report if it was exactly the same before my build, but I can say I don't remember my STFT hitting-2X.XX every time I come to a stop. My main thing is that I don't want a rich condition fowling my plugs or anything. Just trying to keep on top of things really. Will isn't terribly worried though, it's just something I am curious that if it's a real issue or not (however minor).
     
  3. alexwlwsn

    alexwlwsn Greenie Member

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    Had a SUPER rich idle after warming up my car yesterday (10-11afr constant) but in cruising things were normal. STFTs were hard negative and LTFTs seem to be shifting south too. So, either this solenoid is sticking hard open or something else is up. It seems strange that when my issue started there was a distinct length of time where STFTs were negative, AFRs were rich, and then click - everything went to normal. This makes me feel something physical is causing this issue.

    I'm not yet convinced I can rule out the purge solenoid. I gave it a little lube job after my rich idle incident and it seemed to improve things slightly. I might be picking up a Dorman OEM replacement one this evening though and tossing that on to see if anything improves more. I'll also clean up my MAF and then reflash my tune. Maybe a little reset will clean things up.
     
  4. Redline

    Redline I done fucked up for the last time. BANNED Greenie Member

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    Rich @ idle could be a DP flange or other pre-O2 exhaust leak too, perhaps?
     
  5. alexwlwsn

    alexwlwsn Greenie Member

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    I'll check and make sure my DP and wastegate/dump are all tight tonight. Luckily they're all vband so it'll be easy
     
  6. CMajor

    CMajor Greenie Member

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    My car did the same exact thing, I did some searching and asked around but didn't find much other than thinking it was a vacuum leak. I fixed all my vacuum/boost leaks and still had my AFRs dipping rich when coming to a stop. It drove me nuts for awhile and I think it was Sean Strout that told me it could be the JMF because the plenum is so large. I just stopped worrying about it because it wasn't causing any driveability issues, at least after I fixed the leaks.
     
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  7. alexwlwsn

    alexwlwsn Greenie Member

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    So, I must admit I was dumb. Filled up from almost empty with 5 gal e85 and 5 gal 93 octane like always and all my problems magically disappeared. I've been good so far at keeping my mix consistent but who knows. I guess it's time to get an ethanol content analyzer.
     
    alexwlwsn, via an iPad, Nov 15, 2016
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  8. alexwlwsn

    alexwlwsn Greenie Member

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    For your viewing pleasure:





    First video just little revs to around 3-4K or so and Second video was against a buddy's cammed/tuned Corvette.
     
    alexwlwsn, via an iPad, Nov 23, 2016
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  9. alexwlwsn

    alexwlwsn Greenie Member

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    Track day bro!
    IMG_20161203_105913026.jpg
    Took a little trip to the track today to see if Will aka @Captain KR could crack a 9s pass. He got a real nice 20' and then PTO said "goodnight and good luck".
    IMG_20161203_112816128.jpg

    Having Nishan and WIll both in the same place at the same time today was fun because I could pick Nishan's brain a little and got some advice on which oil to run and they both recommended 15W50 Mobil One. I made that change today since my car's been tuned for almost 3000 miles now so it was that time. I had a minor ticking in the head which I was told not to worry about since the valve springs I have are pretty intense but that actually seems to be gone. Nishan said he almost guaranteed it to go away with thicker oil and it looks like he's right.

    IMG_20161203_163330682.jpg

    Other than that, tomorrow I'll be cracking open my HPFP spill valve. I got some nice cleaning directions from everybody's favorite mad scientist @Enki. I'm not sure if 3000 miles on E45ish blend will cause things to get gunked up but it can't hurt to take a look in there.
     
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  10. Redline

    Redline I done fucked up for the last time. BANNED Greenie Member

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    Sweet stuff! I always heard our engines shear Mobil 1, though. But you do shorter intervals (right?) and are built though, so I'm sure that changes things. Anywho, gonna do a UOA, just to see how it likes it?
     
  11. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    It shouldn't unless the oil doesn't like ethanol and heat in the same environment. If it does, just use the Redline shit and clean/reassemble like I told ya and you'll be fine for a long time.
     
  12. Sho

    Sho Silver Member

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    Curious to see the results of a UOA with the mobil1. I've been using Brad Penn 10w40 in my built motor for most of its 54k miles with 2k mile intervals. Shits expensive, though.
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Dec 4, 2016
  13. alexwlwsn

    alexwlwsn Greenie Member

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    Yeah I am curious as well. I was going to go with Brad Penn for this change but since this came with such a recommendation, I figured why not.

    Is it recommended that for Brad Penn you use such short intervals? I've read some places that sometimes shorter intervals actually wear a motor more since it's a little thicker initially. Almost like there's a sweet spot and going under will wear your motor over time since you have oil that's too new in the motor too often. (this may be totally false, it's just something I've read)
     
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  14. Sho

    Sho Silver Member

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    Nothing scientific about the intervals I changed my oil at. Basically, once the oil wasn't tinted green anymore , I'd change it. I haven't done a leak down test yet, but last compression test was:
    1- 205psi
    2- 200psi
    3- 200psi
    4- 205psi
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Dec 4, 2016
  15. alexwlwsn

    alexwlwsn Greenie Member

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    @Sho that's awesome compression for a built motor at that many miles, are you running 10.5 CR pistons?

    And here's the before and after shots relief valve cleaning I just did. Super easy and relaxing actually, I enjoy taking little things apart. It seemed to be a little dingy but I haven't seen the insides of many HPFPs before to make a real comparison.
    IMG_20161204_130955416.jpg IMG_20161204_132124080.jpg IMG_20161204_132643529.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2016
  16. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    The color doesn't matter; was it sticky?
     
  17. alexwlwsn

    alexwlwsn Greenie Member

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    The little piston seemed to move okay.
     
  18. Enki

    Enki Motorhead Platinum Member

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    It's the needle in the spill valve and/or the internals piston that have issues.
     
  19. Sho

    Sho Silver Member

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    @alexwlwsn standard compression 88mm Manley platinum series in my car
     
    Sho, via a mobile device, Dec 4, 2016
  20. alexwlwsn

    alexwlwsn Greenie Member

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    Might as well bump this thread with a little cold start video:



    Still running strong. I have next week off from work so I think I'm going to bring my car to my parent's garage and claybar/wax and put on my stock wheels finally with all seasons along with general maintenance. I'll have to take pictures of it all clean before putting the stock wheels on so the wax doesn't go to waste. I recently got some Adam's polish I'm looking forward to trying out.
     
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