Rang-a-stang's GenWon

Copy. I plan to get a Cobb Downpipe after smog in February then will get it re-tuned.

 

Yup 50-75$ for a revision, price should be listed on your tunas website if not just shoot them an email and ask buy typically in that range

 

Last weekend I changed my trans fluid with the TriboDyn blue stuff. Last time, I changed my fluid at 60K with the Ford stuff (I don't remember the part number but it's the stuff that's like $20/quart). At the same time I was doing my trans fluid, I replaced the shift shaft seal IAW this thread:
https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.p...haft-seal-bearing-breather-replacement.10062/
Went exactly as described. I would recommend anyone doing the shaft seal also have a brass wire brush and some white lithium grease. I cleaned all the pivot points that the shift cables interact with the shaft and now my shift feels much more smooth. It does not shift as smoothly when "cold" with the TriboDyn as it did with the Ford stuff but it is an almost imperceivable difference.

I also threw my secondary cat back on and got it smogged. For the last time! Woooo hooo!

Today I got some new tars. I ordered a set of Goodyear Eagle A/S's in 245/45R18 and they look GREAT!


so far they are much quieter than the Hankook Han Ventus S1 Nobles I had before. This is the first all season tire I have ever installed on this car. Since I am leaving SoCal during the life span of these tires I figured it was a good time. I get it aligned on Saturday (I aways get an alingment after I buy new tires).
I am still on track to get my downpipe in February, too!!

 

I can't even imagine trying to smog my speed.

 

Lol Maryland is weird. They think they are being hard on modifications but as long as I have no cell and no more than two not readys i pass. And now they have self service kiosk's so don't even have to worry about a visual

 

The secret to getting through smog in California purely comes down to paint. If the smog tech pops your hood and sees chrome, blue anodized, or anything else that is not flat black, or cast aluminum, they dig. If you have an access port hanging on your dash, or an obnoxiously loud exhaust, then they dig.
But if you show up and they pop your hood and it looks mostly stock with maybe one CARB sticker there, they assume the car is a run-of-the-mill Mazda and push it through quickly.

These days all the smog tech wants to do is scan your computer for check engine lights and IM readiness. They did not notice my tune in my computer this time. $60 smog check takes 10 mins. Annoying.

 

Which downpipe did you end up going with?

I should consider doing this with a turbo upgrade while the lockdown up here continues.

Edit: nevermind...saw you're going with the Cobb.

 

I have all the cash in the bank for my Downpipe but called on a business trip that's gonna take me away from home until May so I am waiting until I get back to order. I am starting the process of my touch up tune with Freek and am investigating going to E85 (https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/some-newb-e85-questions.12189/).

Other than that, my MS3 is rockin! Longer term (about 5k miles now) review of the Yellow stuff: they dust more than the Hawk HPS I used to run, they do bite better when cold but I don't think they are worth the price difference. When these wear out, I will probably go back to the HPS. IMHO, the Yellow Stuff is worth about $15/axle more than the HPS but not the almost $40/per axle.

 

E85 would be amazing on the S3 I bet. Makes a huge difference even on the K04.

I've been debating doing the S3 install...even ordered the supporting mods (3 bar MAP and harness, 3-port EBCS, Forge V1 BPV), but my quarters and doors are starting to rust.

Trying to decide if I proceed with the mods or stop and just enjoy the car as-is until she needs to be retired. It's a tough, 1st world problem I'm faced with, lol.

 

copy that @Duey1083! I have loved this turbo so far. IMHO, the fun to drive aspect is sooo much more important than what it looks like. I say, let that biatch rust and run like a raped ape! there is nothing better than an ugly turd that is faster than a gorgeous garage queen! The uglier it is, the less you stress little things, anyway.

 

Big maintenance and parts fest this weekend. Started with a coolant flush. More info, here:
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/what-coolant-is-best.12689/
I also did some research and asked about switching to Corn:
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/some-newb-e85-questions.12189/
Pulled my bumper cover to work on it's alignment, swap a headlight housing, and polish the other headlight. I wrecked my Speed about 8 years ago and had to install an aftermarket driver side headlight. That headlight SUCKED. The clear outer lens has cracks in it and it generally oxidized MUCH faster then the factory ones did.

I had the original factory housing from that side but it had a broken bracket so I ordered Mazda part # BPYK510B7 and used it with some JB Weld. It's solid now.
https://www.zoomzoomnationparts.com/p/Mazda__3/Headlight-Bracket/48696573/BPYK510B7.html
Both headlights got a good polishing and then re-coated. I have polished many headlights over the years with the Nulens kit but recently saw this Duplicolor kit that comes with a new UV coating. I really like it! Hopefully it lasts a lot longer now. I used the Nulens kit to polish it to super nice, then the Duplicolor kit to coat it. Both side look great.


Did a quick oil change with Costco's new Dexos Gen 2 oil and a K&N cartridge.
Then moved on to my new favorite part! Installed my new Cobb down pipe! Woo Hoo!! Went as expected, not a lot of pictures because you just follow instructions. The only "difficulty" I had was the middle top nut on the turbo stud had some interference with the COBB Logo cast into the bell mouth. I could not get a box end wrench or socket on that nut. My turbo stud nuts are the stainless ones that came with the BNR S3 so maybe that's not an issue for stock nuts but it was for me. I had to use an open ended wrench. I did not figure that out until everything was in and I did not feel like taking it out to grind the COBB off so it just cranked it down. BTW, all 5 nuts are easy to get to with this downpipe. The bottom 2 you can easily get to from underneath with a box end wrench.
I'll tell you what, that is a good looking piece of metal!


NEXT!
Only my rear driver side tire rubbed and only when I was fully loaded with people or crap. My tire after about 5k miles looked like this

I had tried rolling lip and that helped a little but not enough so I trimmed about 1/4 inch from the lip. Then I used some self etching primer over the cut, then touch up paint over that to prevent rust.

Then I flushed the brakes. Nothing notable there. I used Lucas DOT 3 Synthetic.

I noticed a tiny bit of crap just inside the lip of the master but the brake fluid looked ok as it came out. I have done the brake fluid a couple times before so it was pretty much as I expected.

...then I bled my clutch. IT WAS GROSSSSSS. The crap that came out my slave cylinder was shocking. The bleeder valve was clogged so I had to remove it and clean it out with brake cleaner and compressed air. I wish I would have taken pictures. it was nasty. This is the first time I have ever bled my clutch.
Moved on to my HPFP rebuild. I found Corksport now offers an E85 O Ring kit, too. Hm. It also comes with some new hardware so I ordered it.
https://corksport.com/mazdaspeed-e85-safe-hpfp-o-ring-rebuild-kit.html
The instructions were FANTASTIC. Rebuild took about a hour and I took my sweet time. My pump seemed to be in good shape and not a lot of crap in it for 140k miles.


Primed it with Redline fuel system cleaner and threw it back together.
I did not notice when I installed my TMIC that the cover did not quite fit right. I noticed this when I took the cover off this time:


I used a 4" cutoff wheel to grind the lip down and spent a few minutes straightening out some of those fins. I know it won't really make a difference but it bugged me.
Lastly, I washed my rims inside and out, rotated the tires and put it back on the ground. Flashed my new Freektune in it and have been driving it this week with no front bumper cover. My A/C is not working (compressor clutch is dead) so I don't want to put the cover back on until the A/C is done.

So far, pretty happy with the downpipe. It sounds almost the same (my wife didn't notice any change in sound but I do) which is AWESOME (yes, still stock cat-back). I feel a tiny bit more power around 3k RPM but my tune is still the rough draft so I expect a lot more as it get updated. Once this touchup tune is finalized, I will buy another one and tune for Corn. I can hardly wait for that!! I am more excited to feel this turbo, with this DP, with Corn than I was buying my house! hahahaha!

Stupid A/C.

 

All of your images appear to be broken.

 

(face palm)
Fried from the day. I'll fixem later.

 

cracks

polished headlights and the stuff I used

Only DP Porn

Scraped tire from rubbing

Fender trimming

Brake fluid I used:

goop in Master cylinder

HPFP pre-cleaning


TMIC Damage

 

Just finished my tune after the Downpipe install and fuel pump rebuild. I struggled getting my fuel pressure where it should be. Ultimately I needed to replace my pressure relief valve and had over-torqued the spill valve. I have a pretty good idea how the fuel system works on these guys now.
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/should-i-replace-my-prv.12954/#post-95284

Funny story: My tire caught a bolt and it was not fixable. I have about 5k miles on these tires and LOVE THEM. I had to buy a new tire and after warranty it was $70 out the door. Why is that a funny story? It was the one that was rubbing and had some slight sidewall damage. So IMHO, I paid $70 for a tire with no sidewall damage.

Thoughts on downpipe: My wastegate duty cycle is down about 20%, injector duty cycle is about the same (around 85%), fuel economy seems all but unaffected (maybe .5mpg difference?), boost is about the same around 21psi, and the car drives almost exactly the same as before. Like I said above, it sounds slightly different but that's about it. Overall, wasted money on this combo with 91 octane. I paid about $650 to install this (with military discount, straight from Cobb) to lower my WGDC by 20% but no other real noticeable improvement.

I am under a vaccine mandate and I refuse to get it so I may be unemployed in the next few weeks. If I do not get fired, I will buy a Corn tune since that is really where I wanted to go anyway but right now It's all about saving $$$. Hopefully this combo will really react to Corn....

 

Imagine thinking that a 20% reduction in wgdc to make the same boost "isn't worth it."

Imagine being so stubbornly ignorant that you're willing to risk your job, health, and the health of those around you by refusing to get a simple shot.

 

100% We should really be promoting truth in science here, all these cars run on science.

 

Why not just get the vaccine? I didn't want to get it but still got it anyways. The second dose kicked my ass but o well. Everyones gonna die someday so if this shortened my life span or not I dont really know or care.

As for thinking getting a reduction in WGDC is a waste to make the same boost then you're wrong. That shows the DP is better designed and flowing better since the turbo can spool easier without the back pressure preventing the turbine from spinning up as fast. You essentially made a larger window to control boost pressure with and though you may not feel it, probably a few HP freed up as well.

 

Why do you care if someone gets the vaccine?

If it works and you got it who cares what other people do they can't get you sick

If it doesn't work then why bother

 

I just don't want dude to lose his job if it comes down to it. I'm all for freedom to make a choice on it. It is sad we are at a point where it's you can get the vaccine and work/support your family or don't get it and you're SOL.