Shooting for that 700hp stock flange

So I had everything to build my ms3 once before and it was stolen by my wife for the ms6 (which I stole back when she bought her 370z). So now I’m building Betty. (2007 MS3).
Dropped the block off to have it decked today. Hoping to pick it up Wednesday. Get it assembled and do the engine swap this weekend.
Build list is
Eco boost crank
Manley H-Tuff rods
Manley platinum extreme duty pistons with .250 pins
Oring block
Ported head
Supertech 70lb springs
Sp63 stg3 cams
CS 4” tip
CS exhaust manifold
CS 3.5” tbe
CS large FMIC
CS cst6 turbo
CS fuel cell
Damond PCV plate and catch cans
JMF v2 intake
ID1050x injectors
Xclutch twin disk
Grimmspeed ebcs
ARP main studs
L19 head studs
SSC and wot box
Tial 44mm wg
Tuned by PD

 

Oh yeah

 

I’m hoping. Basically the same set up I run on my ms6. Little different head porting and a little more compression on this set up plus the cams. Ms6 made 636 awhp so we will see what happens….

 

What kinda compression!?

 

Not your kind lol. These engines are supposed to be 9.5:1 I believe. I have not personally seen this on any mzr I’ve taken apart. They come in closer to 9.17-9.23 from my measurements. The engine in the 6 came out to 9.2 after opening the combustion chamber and what I took off the head and block. The one going in the 3 should come out to a true 9.5:1 after opening the combustion chamber, milling .010 off the head and .020 off the block

 

That being said I haven’t ran the numbers yet to see what actual compression will be with the new cams

 

Didn’t get the motor done and installed this weekend like I had planned but got some pics

 

Got my block cut today for the orings and 2 of the orings installed. And that’s about it. Lol. Really hoping to have everything done and ready to install this weekend.

 

Nice pictures! Thank you for sharing.
From previous personal water craft experience that using a small knife edge to scrape the sticky rust coatings on the steel "tubular" hose bibs while its so accessable. Just use very little force and do the scrape towards bumb edge, not removing or modification of ridge. I also turn knive edge at 90' and scrape around "nose" of pipe. Then if still not satisfied, some scotch bright to help clean, but not polish the surface. Especially the long metal piping from oil cooler, throttle body, over transmission to turbo water return and interior heater core.
The one in the picture, I still had to redo Insitu after rebuild, those darn spring clamps sometimes just don't like clamping a new hose...

 

Thanks. I have machines that can clean all that but I try to leave it as stock “190,000 mile” as possible. It gets ran thru the tank to remove oil and grease and anything in the oiling or water jackets. All the gasket surfaces get cleaned and internals but everything else on the outside I keep lookin nasty.

 

Finished the orings today. Only time consuming thing I have left is setting the valve lash for the new cams and maybe freshen up the valve job. Going to check the valves tomorrow to see if any are leaking. Hoping to get this stuff done Friday night and assemble the engine Saturday morning. Swap the motors Saturday night and have running Sunday. We will see how that plan works out

 

Once again I didn’t get the motor put in or finished last weekend. Cam spec sheet called for .014ex and .012in clearance. I didn’t have enough shims to set them exactly to those specs so I called to see if there was any variance like +/- .001 and they informed me they set them up to factory specs. But try to stay in the middle. Not sure why the cam spec sheet don’t say that but I suppose it is what it is. Got the valve lash done and the head bolted on. Oil pump and water pump is installed. Timing components are all on. Just need to lock everything down. Also verified true Tdc when timing plug bolt is installed. So trying to hopefully get it swapped this weekend.