Sid's sleepy 6

Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 6 Build Diaries' started by sid, Jun 15, 2020.

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  1. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Platinum Member

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    This is what I did to tighten the flywheel , might also work to hold the crank.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. sid

    sid Greenie Member

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    Haha nice. I probably won't have my flywheel on time to do this when ill be putting on the new pulley. The way i was thinking of doing it was by threading the old flywheel bolts in the crank, wedging a prybar between the bolts and having a friend hold the prybar while i torque down the pulley. Im just scared that the tiny bolt that aligns the pulley will crack while im doing this.
     
    sid, via a mobile device, Aug 11, 2020
    #22
  3. Maisonvi

    Maisonvi Silver Member

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    No, hold the crank, and there is a little M6 hole/thread on the pulley/timing cover to locate the pulley. That little hole wont hold it for anything but location, but it will get the pulley in the right location.
     
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  4. sid

    sid Greenie Member

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    Thanks for the help everyone. Finally got the engine timed. As expected, i just got someone to hold the crank with a pryback while I torqued the crank bolt. Worked like a charm. I had trouble finding an M6 bolt though, so we ended up making our own with an old thread making kit.

    Now its time to play the waiting game since CPE and edge are all in backorder :( While i wait, thought i might look into some stuff I might have missed/parts i might need. I just found out that the gaskets supplied by bnr are not the greatest, so ill be ordereing some OEM gaskets for the turbo / downpipe. I also found out that ill probably need a filterd oil feed line for the turbo. After reading this: https://bnrsupercars.wordpress.com/mazdaspeed-36-custom-oil-supply-line-built-engines-only/. Any thoughts? I looked into some oil feed lines for the BNR S3 and found this: https://www.graveyardperformance.com/products/bnr-s1-s6-mazdaspeed-3-6-oil-feed-line-w-billet-filter and I coudnt really find anything else. Im thinking of maybe getting a line done locally but im not entirlely sure on where to get the right fitting and what not. Any tips would help lots.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2020
  5. sid

    sid Greenie Member

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    So i finally got the BNR S3 on. I was able to fit the forced performance filter right at the block on the an fitting too which saved me some money on a 2nd line.
    IMG_20200829_194110.jpg
    IMG_20200829_194130.jpg
    All i needed to get was 2 -4 AN to 12mmx1.5 adapters, 36in braided hose and the filter. At least for the oil feed. I thought I was just going to put the stock oil drain but the line is kinked so ill end up just making my own like I did for the feed.

    Also had to use a modified coolant feed line (probably for a big turbo), because the fitting on the EGR delete plate is located closer to the turbo which kinked the line. At least this line is a lot longer which gave me a lot more room to play with.

    IMG_20200829_200936.jpg

    Now I just gotta make this dam drain line. Also, did anyone find a better way to tighten the AN fitting for the oil feed line on the turbo with it on the engine? It was a PITA to get to that fitting since the exhaust manifold was in the way. I had to grab a 15mm wrench and put the closed end in on the other end of the line (at the 90 degree bend) and feed the wretch to the other side of the line just to tighten the fitting :sweatsmile:
     
  6. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Platinum Member

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    https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-23903093-extended-oil-fitting-3an-to-1-8-npt-alum-black.html

    I actually looked at that and thought it might make it easier to get to. This is for the PTE not sure about BNR.

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. magikflight

    magikflight Greenie Member

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    so, kinda glad your build is current. i messed up the oil feed bolt/thread on my block. did you tap the threads for the fitting on the block? if so, what did you use?
     
  8. sid

    sid Greenie Member

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    Did you strip the bolt hole for the feed line or the drain line? Both threads on my drain line -> block were stripped so I had to tap them using a kit to 1/4" which is slightly larger and works well with the drain line. Im not sure about the feed line though, the bolt is an M12 so you might be able to tap the hole to M13 although im not sure if they sell any banjo adapters for an M13 size ... I didnt have to tap the hole for the fitting but i did find this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/14mm-x-1-5-to-4AN-AN4-M14-Straight-Fitting-Adapter-Water-/273417323152

    So you might be able to tap the hole to M14 but i'm not too sure if that is too much.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2020
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  9. sid

    sid Greenie Member

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    Didnt know they sold these, ill look for one that would fit the BNRS3 ... Im pretty sure its an M12 on the turbo. At the moment i think its tight enough though, ill find out when i start her up for the first time haha
     
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  10. sid

    sid Greenie Member

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    So its been a while since i posted. Been crazy busy, but the engine is finally in the car. Wired everything up, drained a bunch of old gas from the tank which was surprisingly easy. You just need to short one of the diag pins in the fuse box to ground to start the low pressure fuel pump and out goes the gas.

    The one thing i had lots of issues with was the 3.5" jbr tip. I had to really play with it to get it to fit with the hks bpv. I had to use a different intercooler adapter for the bpv so the tip can reach the bpv. (The one that requires a 90° tube). Other then that, i just gotta make a battery box for the 51R battery cuz there's no way im fitting the regular battery in there with the tip unless i relocate to the trunk.
    So i finally got my downpipe today :) Might be the day I start the car for the first time. The CPE downpipe ended up coming with a 2.5" flange gasket so you dont need to buy a seperate gasket for installing on the magniflow catback. It also come with a bung for the engine light fix. Anyone know which restrictor i should put in? I assume the smallest one will do the trick. Ill be installing this bad boy today and starting up the car with the base map i got from freektune.


    Hopefully everything will go well[emoji1696] Probably gonna use 10w-40 for the break in because i do have loose bearing clearances i believe. Also gotta flush the rad from all the dust and crap accumulated in the pipes over the year.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    sid, via a mobile device, Oct 30, 2020
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  11. sid

    sid Greenie Member

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    So i did my first 160km (100mi) with it. Everything in the engine sounds great, I'm really surprised on how much the car improves as you break in the engine. Heres what i did to break it in if anyone is wondering:
    1. With everything hooked up, i cranked over the engine (no spark plugs in) with my foot mashed on the gas to disable the injectors. I did this about 3 times 10 seconds each. When i noticed that the oil light came off, i knew i was good to go.
    2. Put the spark plugs in, and started it for the first time. It started up first try and stalled, started it a second time and it ran like a charm. I waited for it to get to temp (because it cold as hell up here right now) and checked for leaks and monitored my afr and fuel trims. Once up to temp i kept the rpms between 2k and 3k for a bit. After 20, i shut it off and changed the oil and filter
    3. Went for a 30km drive with lots of engine decel and accel. I usually accelerated from about 3k rpm down to 1.5k rpm. I noticed a big change in how the car drove the more i drove it. It really improved the more i drove.
    4. Drained the oil and changed the filter. This time i cut open the filter to freak myself out over the little metallic bits. From my research, this is completely normal ans just means the rings are seating. Went for a 160km drive. Again lots of accel and decel.

    Now i gotta change the oil and filter again and keep it for about 600km or so.

    I did find a few little things wrong with the car though. Looks like something is wrong with my clutch switch. Whenever i engage the clutch at idle, the rpms go up quite a bit. I also got a CEL for a clutch switch sensor low voltage. Ill have to diagnose this with the fsm.

    The tranny is also noisy as hell. When im doing my engine decel, it sounds like its rubbing like crazy. Double clutching does help. I never drove this tranny before so it could have been bad before i put it in. Its full of MT-90 too. Hopefully it'll last haha.

    Other then that, the car runs great. Just getting a sneak peek at 1-2psi and now I'm really excited to see what it can do.

    Thanks alot for the help everyone!
     
    sid, via a mobile device, Nov 1, 2020
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  12. automaticonlyspeed3

    automaticonlyspeed3 Greenie Member

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    congrats man!! how much time (Estimated) do you think this whole build process took (in hours)?
     
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  13. sid

    sid Greenie Member

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    Well it really depends on what you consider as being part of the process. Getting everything disassembled takes about 3 days (including removing the engine from the car). Then you have to bring everything to the machine shop and wait for that which can take some time depending on how busy they are. Assembling the block itself is not too time consuming, i would say you can get the bottom end done in a day. It also took me about 2 whole days to clean and lap the valves and verify, relap and so on. I then got it timed and got everything else on (accessories) in about a day or 2. Then about 2 more days to get the clutch and tranny on and get the engine in. Then an other day to bolt everything back on. (Amounts to about 10 days). That said, it took me way longer then that because im leaving out a bunch of small things and i did this in a very linear style (did something, ordered part, waited for part, did something again and so on)

    Now theres a bunch of little stuff i left out. This has also been about a year long process for me because i didn't order all my parts at the beginning ( lots of waiting in between ) so this estimation could be completely off. Also i did a TONE of research which i would say could easily amount to 50+ hours. Also, like others say all the time, the really big time consumers are the "might as well do it while your there", kind of stuff. Valve work, and all the cleaning.

    It really depends though, as a first time i recommend taking your time like i did. You avoid missing something and you really take the time to learn concepts and understand things that will benefit you in the long run (the stuff i learned from this is invaluable). I set out to do this as an opportunity to learn and holy shit did i gain knowledge. I think that the time building is very minimal compared the time spent researching and planning. I also think that the best thing to do would be to gather all the parts before starting the build. I made the mistake of ordering my downpipe from cpe about 4 months ago and i just got it now, so for about 4 months the car was waiting for a downpipe.
     
    sid, via a mobile device, Nov 1, 2020
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  14. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Platinum Member

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    My thread goes pretty in depth on the process you can spend a lot of time on things and do it right or you can take some short cuts and hope it works out to speed things up. I did just about everything I could to make sure I would not have to mess with it again for a while and took my time so it took forever. It was my first time doing it though and I am married with a family so I can't just live in the garage. Funds also can slow the rebuild down. https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/johnnytightlips-build-maximum-carnage.7025/
     
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  15. sid

    sid Greenie Member

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    Quick update:

    Hit 13 pounds today and it felt great. The car is noisy af though. Those damond motor mounts + bsd + light weight flywheel really add up to some NVH. Im sure ill get used to it though and its worth it imo. I am starting to get paranoid with all the little noises I hear tough so its time for a spin on conversion and an oil pressure gauge to ease my paranoia. Obviously Im seeing quite a bit of flakes in my oil filter but I expect this in the first 100 miles or so. Anyone know for how long I should be expecting this?

    I was listening to my engine today and I noticed a very slight ticking near cylinder 1 at the oil pan. Noticed it at first startup too.
    Either a) Its the injector ticking hitting the ground and coming back up to my ears.
    b) The oil pump (maybe it does this noise normally?)
    c) Bad bearing but i feel like it would be a lot louder
    d) Im going crazy (possibly related to point a)

    By slight i mean, quieter then the injector tick. Anyone experience this too?
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2020
  16. sid

    sid Greenie Member

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    Well the answer was definitely a combination of a) and d). I grabbed a long magnet grabby thingy and stuck it on the oil pan while the engine was running, no knocking/ticking. Now I just have to install this oil pressure gauge and start getting rid of rattles from the engine bay. I know for a fact the IC is rattling so ill have to mitigate that.

    Other then that, the engine is running great, I just need to deal with this dam neutral switch issue (throwing a P0850), pretty sure the switch is bad on the tranny but thankfully I have an other one to swap in.
     
  17. sid

    sid Greenie Member

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    Hey guys, i just did an oil change at the 500km mark (300mi ish) and i cut open the filter. Im still seeing quite a bit of metal shavings in the filter. Is this normal? Im starting to get a little worried something might be going bad.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    sid, via a mobile device, Nov 11, 2020
    #37
  18. JohnnyTightlips

    JohnnyTightlips Platinum Member

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    I would keep driving it as long as it all seems normal. I am sure even if you got it hot tanked that some crap remained. I didn't even inspect mine after I built it and it has been solid over a year now of DD and me being dumb.
     
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  19. sid

    sid Greenie Member

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    Yeah im just worried a bearing might be going. That said, i just installed an oil pressure gauge. Once im up to temp (gone for a drive), my oil pressure is at about 75psi at 3000rpm. Im assuming this is ok since the shop manual calls for max 80psi at 100°C. I did notice that my oil pressure is at about 70 psi on cold start. After going for a drive and doing a few pulls, it idles at about 25psi. Im assuming the high cold start oil pressure has to do with the fact that I'm running 10w40. I also think that if a bearing were to go bad, i would get way lower oil pressure then that right? Im also considering switching to 5w30 since the oil pressure seems to be a bit on the high side.
     
    sid, via a mobile device, Nov 11, 2020
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  20. sid

    sid Greenie Member

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    So quick update:

    Hit about 800kms on the new engine today. Did a compression test and got 170 psi across all cylinders :) not sure if the 170 is accurate at all given the price of the compression tester ... Engine is running rich though, im getting a steady -10% LTFT at idle and my plugs seemed a bit on the dark side. Not sure if the dark plugs are a product of the fact that they are 1 step colder or because I'm doing lots of stop and go/city driving. Other then that, my paranoia is finally easing off thanks to the oil pressure gauge i installed. Probably gonna go for an oil temp gauge next :) [​IMG]
     
    sid, via a mobile device, Nov 16, 2020
    #40

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