SPEED 3 awd conversion

alright guys LONG STORY I have a misfire issue that I'm just gonna assume is related to my injectors and or seals. so lets go back to the first video of me driving the car down the road. after reviewing the logs it seems I hooked up my ebcs wrong and had 0 WGDC and made around 31psi. so after I got back home after that ride I parked the car , and mind you it was running fine at that time, no misfire nothing. so the next weekend after that I was messing around with the dccd controller wiring it in completely, which I ended up getting finished BUT I went to start the car after that and the car ran like DOG shit. it immediately threw a p0223 code "throttle position circuit B high voltage", had no throttle what-so-ever. OK so I go back to my dccd controller inputs and remove the throttle position wire and now I got throttle again BUT I have a bad misfire. So I did the normal diagnosis for this, Replaced all 4 coils with some spares that I have, swapped plugs, compression tested (170psi across), now id assume if I had some valve issues I wouldn't have a good compression reading so ill rule that out as y compression test was good, not saying that they might not be leaking but definitely not bent or broken.

so my only things left to check are my injectors or seals, Which I do have oem style seals so maybe I blew them right out, anyways check out the video and let me know what you think. its throwing no codes towards a misfire but you can definitely tell its missing. the only code I get is for the fuel level sender which is gone out of the car so that's a permanent light.

 

Do you have a log of idle? What do trims look like?

 

@JohnnyTightlips I have all my logs from that run I did.

 

Idle Log #2 STFT is +24.8 which is MAX for that so you have a leak. AFR is lean 16ish so you are getting too much air in and not enough fuel which explains why STFT keeps trying to add fuel. HPFP looks good. Do a boost leak test and a vac test see what you find.

https://www.revisionsrus.com/logs/1833

Pre-turbo = + trims, air added or sucked in
turbo to TP = - trims, air lost or pushed out
post TP = + trims, air added or sucked in

 

looks like you popped a charge pipe with that 31 psi pull,

 

I forgot to dump some photos of the wiring mess I made in and out of the engine bay this past weekend. also getting finished up with the fuel cell area. I plan to keep the back seats in place as I'm not planning on building a firewall, although id assume to even go on any track with it id have to make one for it for safety reasons.

I made some mock up limit straps out of old HD ratchet straps until my actual limit straps come in. this was simply for some measurements and to get the plates welded to the body. I bought some actual GOOD quality limit straps for off road applications like jeeps and trucks and what not, but the company also sells small straps (less than 12 inches) which is exactly what I need. reason for this is the upward travel on the suspension is too much. When I jack the car off the ground I can basically take the coil spring right out with out unbolting anything, So getting these limit straps will keep the rear end from expanding to much if I were to hit a large bump or something of that nature.

The relay mounted next to the fuel cell is for the #1 surge tank pump, its to make it operate as an OEM in tank fuel pump would, Primes with the key and pumps when the car is started. then my other 3 pumps operate off of their own switch mounted next to my steering wheel. I am going to wire in a fuel level sender so my gauge works again, if its accurate that would be a plus but I know how AM fuel level senders are. I plan on addressing some of the fuel line fittings as I could have used some 90s where I used a straight fitting but I only had X amount of 90s at that time to use.

I also decided to mount the DCCD controller next to the shifter as it was the best spot, and you can easily get wires to that spot. I was able to keep most bunched up to fit in a 1/2" wire loom other than some random inputs like handbrake and foot brake signals. Most of the wiring is absolutely not noticeable inside the car once everything is back in place, but outside in the engine bay there's not too much options as to where you can go through the firewall. either the steering shaft hole or the main harness port behind the glovebox which is what I chose to do. I did try to keep everything routed along the firewall over to the PCM to keep it tidy. (Dont mind the duct tape and blue masking tape, I WILL be going back and re doing all of my tape with loom clamps to clean that up)

 

Amazing work man, keep it up!

 

I know you have other issues to deal with right now.
But when I say the "diff" I don't mean the whole rear carrier. I mean the differential itself inside the housing. They should be interchangeable although not sure. IRRC the rear diff on the 6 is sort of the same or similar to the RX-8. There is one version of the RX-8 which has a carbon fiber prop shaft. I remember looking into retrofitting one to the MS6 but it wasn't a bolt on affair.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233530969468?epid=2154480068&hash=item365f87cd7c:g:DzIAAOSwnZRecU0n

 

Those aftermarket coils "yellow and blue" never seem to work so that might be part of your engine issues. Everyone generally runs gen 2 coils if they need new ones. There might be some decent non OEM ones but I am not aware of any.

 

Honestly I have been running those coils since I got the car. it was the first thing I bought along with spark plugs and basic maintenance parts when you buy a new car. I never had an issues with them. but I have many spare parts on my shelves so I just grabbed a set of oem ones from an old motor I had to make sure the coils weren't the issue

also I have done a boost leak test and nothing major resulted, I did find a vac leak from the vtcs hose on the intake so I replaced it. but still has the misfire. so I'm onto injectors as well what else could it be? when I pulled the fuel rail off of the injectors there was oil on the top of the #4 injector. not much but definitely oil. I'm wondering if my injector is stuck open or something along those lines. many many gallons of an e30 mix has been run through them so it wouldn't surprise me at all, I should probably clean the hpfp internals as well and get new o rings.

is that amount of deposits normal on the injector tips?

 

this is tight af. very interested in seeing more. had thought of importing a jdm 3 that was awd and just dropping in the speed3 engine...possible? maybe...practical. eh. love the work put into this. 100%

 

Those look pretty terrible. I would send them off to get cleaned up as that won't hurt. You can use the rock auto GB kit to get new seals orings etc for them and then get the overspeed or CS kit for the injector seal. You could also replace those torx botls with studs and nuts to make it easier on you next time. Might want to look at getting a nice intake gasket from adapter performance too. Lots of little stuff that adds up bit it is nice to be done and not have to go back in there.

 

sus

 

Agreed those Injectors look rough, get them cleaned +1 for the overspeed seals (head to Injector) and GB reman seals (Injector to rail),
I picked up the Majinspeed customs Injector stud kit it's great.

When you get injectors back from cleaning make sure the pins are straight...learnt that the hard way.

Looks like you've got some black gunk in the rail, you can pop the PRV and fuel pressure sensor out then clean out with brake clean.

 

Hey guys, some more progress is being made.

So lets start with the misfire issue, I have gotten 1 of my sets of injectors cleaned and ordered some Corksport seals. I then decided that its never a bad idea to clean the valves when the intakes off so I spent a couple hours cleaning them, lets just say that the carbon blobs are all gone for now.

Another thing I wanted to do was relocate the battery/pcm as I'm tired of having to take it out every time you do something in the engine bay, Yes I made a battery box out of wood. its about the best material that I can work with that's not steel. made perfectly around a 58 series battery. I even put a Corksport sticker on it to be fancy.

Stainless braded ptfe hose was always part of the plan as its just better to look at and more resilient to gas and e85 for that matter but the cost is just outrageous. Gotta pay to play though so I ordered it through my work so it was cheaper than I thought it was going to be, but still around $500 for hose and fittings.

The lift pumps and fuel filters have been moved to in front of the fuel cell as I feel it looks like a cleaner setup plus I had the hoses off anyways so of course I had to try and perfect things a little more. plus I feel like having a million feet of hose in the car just doesn't look to good.

 

So the last thing I needed to get done before I start road testing this is to make a full exhaust, so this past weekend I spent doing just that. now I'm gonna have ground clearance issues but its either be really loud or have some ground clearance issues. I may have to buy some stock speed 3 coils and raise the car back up to stock height.

Also the Misfire issue has been resolved with the clean injectors and new seals. the cars running a lot better than it has in a long time honestly. maybe I need to start servicing the injectors like every 50k or so.

Now lastly I'm no fabricator, I had 0 experience welding or fabricating when I started this build (and I mean absolutely 0) so some stuff may look bad but I'm trying my best to make it look decent and probably spending more time than I need to making things for the car.

now lets move on to road testing and see what happens.

 

Is there no way to tuck the exhaust up more? That seems really low and it looks like there is still space above it.

 

For a first time fab guy it's good man haha With all the work you have put into it I would take some time to try and tuck that up a bit higher but that's all your decision. Anyway keep it up man and excited to see it running on the road!

 

There is room where its not needed and no room where its needed if that makes sense. the lowest point is the 2 bolt flange. I may just have to cut that out and put a piece of flex or straight pipe there instead, which will give me another inch but hey anything at this point helps.

 

What about ovaling the midpipe area? Like flatten it some and then have it shape back to normal roundness near the rear subframe? The build looks awesome so far and I like seeing the progress