street car gone road race

its been 32c+(90f) for the past 2 weeks straight so its been a warm summer so far.

i looked over the 615k+ and the 660's and im just worried about the wear. i know there are stickier tires then my RS4's but they wont last near as long. i have my set of re71r's on separate wheels for when i want that extra peak grip.

i have not looked into the new Yokohama offerings though. thanks for that input, i will definitely take a look!

 

Second the 615k+, they wear like iron. The RE-71 last exactly 5 track days for me.

 

You found the falkens had a good life span? Re71 I was killing way too quick but the hankooks seemed to have lasted a good while

 

Looking back at my tire rack purchase history I picked up the 615k’s in 7/18 and replaced them with PS4S in 3/19. Did 6 DE’s, a couple of canyon drives, and daily drove them approx 10k. Could have squeaked some more life out of them but it was an El Niño spring and it was white knuckle driving with those in the rain.

 

thanks for the input. maybe i should give the falkens a go this time round

 

New oil cooler is installed, it was as much of a pain in the ass as i expected. things got a little custom.


had to cut away at more of my crash bar which i didn't want to do, but at this point, ill either be going with a custom crash bar, or just modifying mine further. details below

first off, this thing is fucking massive. when i was researching this core, i was getting forum posts of GTR owners running these, RX7 builds, all sorts of cool shit.

old vs. new, 34 row vs. 9 row



bit of a size difference there.
switching to this new setup meant starting fresh, from the sandwich plate all the way to the core. i used a setrab thermostatic oil sandwich plate, and their add in sensor adapter plate.

built all new -10AN lines using some vibrant goods,

i bought every type of fitting possible, i will be returning what i didnt use.


So, my pressure sensor fit right in no problem, but i KNEW the temp probe wouldn't fit, its too long and it hits the center. below you can see the adapter and you can understand how that long temp probe was hitting the center. a solution had to be devised as there was NO way in hell i was going to drive home without having my oil temps reading after all this. F that.

solution? my buddy the machinist came to the rescue. we drilled out a 1/4" hole(in my brand new beautiful aluminum part), tapped it for 1/4" threads, stuffed this guy in the hole,

and gooooooood to go. it actually turned out to be the best possible solution, and was very clean,

look at that. probe fits beautifully.

and now the oil filter area...the filter hangs down to about the bottom of the pan, gotta keep this in mind while driving, its not too bad but yea, good thing im not THAT low.


and now for the core itself, get ready to LOL

absolutely massive.

it blocks more of my fmic then id like, and going forward the crash bar will be redone to hang the oil cooler higher as it sits RIGHT at the bottom on the bumper. any contact with a curb, or the ground(hard trail braking this will happen) and thats it for the cooler. we just ran out of time to redo the crash bar and at least this way i was able to test and see how it works.

so, results? my BATs have increased by about 10c on average, which fucking sucks but its to be expected. now the oil cooler is spaced about a half inch from the intercooler, with some weather stripping in between them in case they decide to meet each other. the oil cooler is mounted with 4 bolts at the top, and 4 bolts at the bottom. this thing is SOLID. its not going anywhere. wish i took photos of the mounts.

to address my bats, i want to move the oil cooler up about 6", and space it about 1" away from the fmic as i think heat is just transferring from the oil cooler to the fmic. in the future, id like to explore other mounting areas for the cooler, theres tons of room for activities in the wheel well, might go there. Coolant temps dont seem to be too bothered yet, but maybe thats cause of this next piece of info.

i have GAINED ~22psi of oil pressure on cold start, and at operating temperature. Gained ~22psi+ across the entire rpm range. that was unexpected and is amazing. at first i didnt know why, but it makes sense. this massive core is FAR less restrictive then the little guy, also im using better fittings(the mishi kit had HARD 90 degree fittings at the sandwich plate which really fucks up oil flow). so this is great news.

on the street id do a couple 4th pulls, oil temp would be around 230 and just live there. now? i tried a couple 3rd-4th wot pulls, back to back, couple of them. oil temp lives directly at 180f. hottest i could get was 190, then the thermostat opens, and temps drop back down to 170. basically oil temp lives from 170-190. amazing.

i will be hitting the track saturday for a full day, its going to be hot. perfect test day.

 

You will wear them out before they heat cycle out.

 

Visited the track on saturday, it was 105f outside so it was an extra spicy day.

well first off, new oil cooler setup is freaking working amazingly well. oil temps came up to 240f, and just lived there forever. hot lap after hot lap oil temp did not move. oil pressure was fantastic also, so thats sweet.

As expected BATs and coolant temps suffered though, mainly BATs. i averaged BATs around 140-160 through out the day, and coolant lived around 220-250, 250 being a one time peak. coolant temp seemed to maintain around 235f. I was able to stay on for 15-20 minute sessions without slowing down at all. i could finally focus on driving again, not starring at my oil temps. so that was great.

future plan is to move the oil cooler behind the fmic, that should fix my BATs, i will also need a new AC condenser so air can actually pass through it, and i also plan on doing that bayson R style open front grill. the amount of airflow that grill gives you access to...i need that in my life.


i went out with a local buddy of mine i met recently, has a 1gen white ms3, built motor, gtx2871, bilstein b14s, CS camber plates, gloc r12 brakes, TMIC, koyo rad. very similar to myself in terms of track day build and he was looking to get out there and get some seat time. so we went!

it was a mazdaspeed day, even though we didnt plan this...every local showed up, many were lapping, majority of them it was either their first time out, or they just dont go alot, but it was still cool to see so many speeds on track lol


some footage below, no i didnt set any new personal best, but i held my own as i usually do lol. next outting ill push for a new PB. i was braking way to early, and my line wasnt 100% where it should be but this was my first event of the year i could actually focus on driving again.

this is just some footage of my following my buddy after i gave him a break down of the track, i went for a few laps with him, he went for a few laps with me, it made a massive difference to his driving so thats good news! i know something useful to teach someone...woohoo!

 

Wasn't 235 (def F) the edge as far as acceptable coolant temps before the engine started acting up?

 

Not sure. Maybe? Or maybe it depends on the tune interms if pulling power out. I know my car is not running at 335whp on track with the high boost temps and whatnot. Probably closer to 300ish. I think the max like safe temp is around 240? A spike probably isn’t horrible but once I see temps reaching and staying above 235 I cool it down

 

You’re happy with those temps?

 

Coolant temps and bats are too high. Oil temp I’m happy with. It’s perfect. BATs and coolant will be addressed though as I mentioned

 

What are you running for coolant? If not there already, I recommend a quart of 50/50 coolant, half a bottle of Water Wetter, and fill up the rest with distilled water. Also, make sure the air is going through heat exchangers, so lots of ducting.

 

I’m currently just running 50/50 coolant and water. Nothing special. I’ve been considering trying straight water with water wetter though. Thanks for that suggestion. I think I may also consider upgrading to the koyo rad when I do the ac condenser? I’ve heard mixed reviews of the koyo rad. Some say it does nothing, some say it helps. Not sure though

 

Koyo, Mishimoto, meh. See if these guys can make you a custom radiator. But I would run the mix I suggested first.

 

I’ll give the mix you suggested a go first. If it gets me even 10c cooler that would be amazing.

those radiators look real nice. Wonder what custom would cost though lol

 

No idea but their racing radiator for the Civic Type R is about $1,000. I had a Ron Davis radiator on my Mazdaspeed6, I don't remember the cost, maybe $700 or so?

 

I remember reading in your thread about the Ron Davis radiator. I definitely wouldn’t mind going that way if I could, but I’m also interested to try your coolant mixture first to see how that goes

 

I may not know what the hell I'm talking about, but what about an angled setup for the oil cooler using the hoodscope to remove the oil from the FMIC and radiator area? Hose routing might be a pain, but seems a waste to have the hoodscoop there without taking advantage of it, especially when this stacked method is hurting your BATS and coolant temps.

 

The concern with using the hood scoop area would be an oil leak causing an immediate fire when the oil hit the exhaust manifold.