Discussion in 'Mazdaspeed 6 Build Diaries' started by StreetSpeed6, Mar 22, 2019.
Do it ! Lets hit that 110 IDC lol
To the moOoOooonn
IT'S ABOUT TIME IT GOT HERE!!!! Felt like forever for my intake pieces to get here but it was only about a week. I purchased a 2ft piece of 3.5" aluminum pipe with a 90* bend. The only other thing I had to buy was a maf flange for a 3.5" pipe.
I went ahead and cut the 90* into a 60* and a 30* piece (which should've been more like 70* and 20* apparently). I used my little kawasaki 9" bandsaw to cut the pipe and straightened up the cuts and de-burred it using a flap disc on my 4 1/2" angle grinder but wish I had a belt sander to get amore flat finish.
This will give you an idea of what it will basically be but will be more angled towards the block to get it away from the fuse box and keeping room for a future mounting point for a small aux fuel cell. I also removed the factory big ugly plastic wire harness cover thingy and am wrapping it nicely with fresh electrical tape.
So... My car started having a slow crank and I think this ancient starter has had it. I put a new battery in and it still cranks the same so a fresh starter is about to go in. While I got the starter I realized how bad the oil leaks are on my engine (which it shouldn't even have). I decided mostly out of frustration to go ahead and just pull the intake mani as well and replace ehat appears to be a leaking pcv plate gasket.
Then, I am going to pull the valve cover and put a fresh gasket on that as well as it seems to be seeping from the entire valve cover. The engine shop had asked if it was ok to use silicone stuff they use on their race engines and I said sure (note to others: just use gaskets lol). Hopefully an hour long scraping process doesn't begin after I get that far but we will see.
Just sick of having oil leaks on a brand new built motor and so here goes nothing. Might also just say screw it while I am ripping the whole car apart and after getting it cranking good again with no leaks just slap on the CST4. Seems like a good time considering it might make all this work and effort feel a bit more rewarding again and I need that at this point.
Apparently it's a good thing I checked my valve cover gasket because the metal baffle piece that was made for me during my engine build has decided to break off in my motor and is possibly down in the timing cover or oil pan. Not really sure, but I do know I am going to drain the oil and see what it looks like. If that checks out I may look into pulling the oil pan off to see if it is down there or something but not 100% sure what to really do about it. Any suggestions would be appreciated lol My life......
Yeah that sucks, lets hope it did not do much damage and is just hanging out in the pan, I would def take the pan off and check the filter on the oil pickup too.
I agree with your suggestion for sure JT but thinking about doing it makes me sick at this point lol Guess I will just have to deal with it and try to get it done as soon as time allows.
Got my custom intake welded up today by a friend in the local and I have to say that I am very happy with it. Can't wait to put it to use! I kept the MAF sensor with a straight section of pipe about 5" so shouldn't need an air straightener.
I'll be doing the vvt on my car soon before the cst4 so hopefully that goes well. I am replacing my passenger and driver side mounts while doing it as well and received them and the new vvt solenoid today from Rock Auto. Vvt time and then time to push this thing to the maaxxxxx!!!!
Hey guys so I did the vvt job went well technically but is unfortunately still making the noise which caused me to replace it all lol Anyway for the details of what I did, I replaced the timing chain and tensioner, vvt actuator, vvt solenoid, cam bolts, crank bolts, and friction washers.
Here is a video of the tension after doing the install. I made sure to even out the tension before tightening the cam bolts as well by turning everything at least a full rotation while the tensioner was released.
As a fun side note the crank bolt is no joke and I straight up twisted the end of my 1/2" drive extension off trying to loosen it up. My impact would get it so I had to wedge a wrench between the crank pulley and my axle to where it would counter hold it for me. Finally got it but without my extension lol Marked the bolt and pulley after the 75ft lbs to make sure I got the 90 degrees when reinstalling.
All the while my spoiled cat was chilling in a recliner in my garage like this!
Couple pics of the vc before vvt job and how I decided the chain was hitting now and it wasn't just old marks.
Remind me of the noise its making?
Buddy did a vvt job on his 6 and accidentally put one of the longer timing cover bolts in the wrong spot which was causing a knocking sound. Swapped the bolts out to their correct places and it stopped.
Did it always make that noise, or did something change?
The odd thing is all the bolts I pulled out were the same length lol That would be an easy fix if it was the problem though. I'm going to double check the cover since I haven't after doing the vvt job. Here is a video of the noise.
It is much better than this now but still doing it just as a side note.
It began making the noise after I discovered a piece of sheet metal broken off and down in the timing cover that we had installed during my engine build as a "baffle" of sorts to block oil from being flung up onto my home made oil breather cap. I think I posted earlier in my thread about this
I guess I didn't post about my issue previous to this so I will fill everyone in on it. During my engine build I added a small metal piece under my oil cap area to keep oil from flinging up on a oil breather cap I made. Needless to say the oil still got into the oil cap filter and was a fail mostly.
Then about two months ago I pulled my car into the garage to fix a hard start issue. I replaced the starter and ended up getting deeper than expected into my car to track some annoying oil leaks as well. I then discovered that metal piece had broke off of my VC which started my search for it. I also went ahead and rebuilt my power steering pump that seemed to be leaking and causing a mess too as a side note.
I found it down in the timing cover below my exhaust cam gear after some time spent looking for it from below in the oil pan first.
I found another discovery that sucked while the pan was off unfortunately lol My builder didn't bend my oil squirters to clear my piston skirts so they got broken off apparently. He isn't familiar with our cars so I can't really blame him fully as this build wasn't in his normal field of engines lol
So after pulling that metal piece out my car started making the noise.. I feel that it would've been all along but the metal piece we installed was keeping the chain from hitting the valve cover and was hitting it instead which hid the noise. That would also explain how it got sheered off as well because the chain finally caught it just right.
So in pursuit to fix the noise I did the vvt job and feel no closer to solving why my chain sounds like it is hitting the valve cover since I have fixed everything I knew to fix and done it to the T.
I hope you don't have a bit of metal stuck somewhere
Exactly my thoughts lol I don't think so but idk. How dangerous do you think it is driving with my car making the noise right now? I mean I have been driving it and seems fine and this problem could take a while to figure out if I even can.
It all depends on where the metal is and if it stays put unfortunately
Yeah, I will probably try some thicker oil to see if maybe that doesn't boost oil pressure and help it at all
If you have an oil pressure problem its likely due to metal being stuck somewhere. Thicker oilight make it worse
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