[SOLVED] stutter/vibration, Cyl 1 codes

Autotech fuel pump internals
EGR Diamond delete kit
K&N short ram
NGK 6510 .27 gap
new oem injectors with graveyard seals
CS fuel line
oem FPRV

Hello friends,
Im back again with some new issues now that I finally got my car to start via the dealership.

It is having this very strange stutter/vibration when giving it gas, parked or driving. The codes I have gotten are
Present codes- P0301, P0421

Past codes- P0172, P0335

I replaced the CPS yesterday with ease and that did seem to help some, I also checked the plugs and they are still good (they have less than 100 and I'm running the NGK 6510 gapped to 27). I moved coil from cyl 1 to cyl 2 with no misfire issues from cyl 2, so I assume my coils are good.
I don't have a custom tune, I'm running the Cobb stage 1 + SF 93 tune ATM till I can purchase a custom one, but unless my instinctual compass is way, I don't think that would do it. I did try putting the Cobb OEM tune on the car and it didn't change anything other my AFR's kind of being all over the place.
Normally, my next though would be an injector is sticking open or the like, or bad O2. But can this style of fuel system still have a stuck open injector ?

Any ideas or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

 

Post a log. Upload it to here and post the link, https://www.revisionsrus.com/
Try to log idle and the stuttering. It is probably your Pressure Relief Valve as that becomes more common as these vehicles age.

 

ok, will do.
I forgot to add, but I replaced it along with most of the fuel system. I.E. fuel pump internals, CS fuel line, oem injectors, and pressure relief with an oem one.

 

https://www.revisionsrus.com/logs/2242
^ cold start


https://www.revisionsrus.com/logs/2243
^ after warming up a bit with a couple of revs.

Didnt have time to take it around the block to try and capture the stutter as im leaving for work ATM, I will try tomorrow afternoon.

https://www.revisionsrus.com/logs/2247
^more data available cold start.

https://www.revisionsrus.com/logs/2248
^idle revs.

 

Those logs seem fine, try to get one with the issue.

 

Yeah, once I get off tomorrow, i'll do a driving log.

 

Ok, I was finally able to record and get some more logs. Listed below is basically a collection of what I could get with detail.
https://www.revisionsrus.com/logs/2283
cold start and idle
https://www.revisionsrus.com/logs/2285
another start and idle, cold
https://www.revisionsrus.com/logs/2287
doing the stutter while driving
https://www.revisionsrus.com/logs/2288
after drive home from work idle in drive way, running temp
https://www.revisionsrus.com/logs/2289
another log of stutter
https://www.revisionsrus.com/logs/2290
another log of stutter
https://www.revisionsrus.com/logs/2291
another log of stutter
https://www.revisionsrus.com/logs/2292
and another log of the stutter

 

Also as an update, I have replaced my coils with brand new ones, I also changed the spark plugs to oem heat range to see if that made a difference, and I bought a new maf today. Haven't put it in yet so these logs are still with a current set up.

Another quick update, I just came back in from car after checking something and when I turned the car(not start) my fuel psi was reading 26/48.
So I'm assuming something is leaking, or not reading correctly ?

 

I am seeing constant knock in your logs. This will pull timing and cause all sorts of other issues. This could be bad gas, a leaking injector seal, bad sensor "electrical" or an actual physical issue with the engine. I would try and sort out the cause of this before you do much more driving. What are you using to log this?

 

My AP. my friend and fellow gear head was looking over my logs and we both noticed the knock. Hopefully next week I can get a compression test done to eliminate that as an issue.
This morning I replaced the MAF and the Cam position. When I went to start the car it fired on the first try, which is great progress because before it would take 3-4 before it would start. I'm going to replace the injectors, again, with new oem ones. The ones that are in the car are supposed to be ultra sonic cleaned and flow tested, but I'm starting to believe they are cheap Chinese knock offs and none of that has been done. They don't have fomoco anywhere on the injector and at first I though that was just from the cleaning.

 

To sum up and close out this thread, it was my injectors. once I swapped out to some OEM ones, the problem went away. I am still running rich, but I believe its all down to tuning now.