Used forged bottom end help

I'm always looking for a spare bottom end and one has finally gone up for sale locally. Sale includes a 0.020 over block, wiseco 88mm pistons, K1 rods, Crank, and rod bearings.

Everything is used(except for the bearings) but the seller claims it was all checked for clearances. He's parting out and offering it for a complete steal. Is it worth it? Or something to stay away from? Plan would be to build it over the winter/summer and have it ready to drop in next winter. I could pick up a spare head locally as well for a good price and have a bare long block ready to go in.

Any input would be great. Thanks!

Pictures from the for sale ad:

 

I have no experience in shit like this, but I will still offer some advice.

I would try and get ABSOLUTE proof that the parts are in spec. I would want measurements from a machine shop and everything looked over, and comprehensive pictures. I know a lot of people have had experience with used parts, and they may be of much better help than I am. Just get as much proof/confirmation as possible.

 

thanks for your input! i understand the risk involved, in the past i purchased a "mint" srt4 motor without thinking much. opened it up, motor was shot.

this is already disassembled so i at least have the ability to check measurements on my own i figure right ?

 

You do have that ability. I mean, you could always get it in writing from him that the parts are in spec and usable, pay with PP G&S, get them measured, and if they're not in spec you can open a case with PayPal disputing the charge that they were not usable parts after getting measurements from a machine shop.

 

wow. this is actually a fantastic idea. then i have some protection for myself. paypal would protect against something like this?

 

I mean don't take my word for it, but if he is selling you parts and he is telling you that they work and are in spec, and they are not, then he's technically lying to you and gave you false information about his product. Paypal could then review the dispute since you paid using G&S and they would make a decision based on evidence.

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thanks for that idea. i like it as away of protecting myself. im going to go with my buddy who has a lot of experience assembling motors, bring the necessary tools to check what we need to check, and if its within spec i guess i can jump on it ? i know the k1 rods arent great, and the wiseco pistons are OTS, but its a good back up bottom end for CHEAP

 

I mean if your friend knows what he's doing and you have all the right tools, go for it. If it's that good if a deal it wouldn't hurt to at least go and see.

 

yea planning to go look at it at least. the pricing is insane considering everything here in canada is stupid expensive(exchange rate) so for the money this would be great. the last motor he built me was for my srt4 and that thing was solid, and that was similar to this, used block and crank so heres hoping maybe i score a wicked deal here

 

so im planning to go check out this used engine on sunday. ive tried searching around for stock crank measurements and what not so i can confirm everything is usable but im not having any luck finding specs? does anyone know where i can find them? i assume itll be in the service manual which id have to purchase? i cant seem to find a pdf of it, google has failed me. i did find one old post listing crank specs and rod specs, but im not sure if thats correct or not

 

How much is he asking? You haven’t said a price yet, just that it’s super cheap

 

I assume he is asking tree fiddy for the bottom end

 

Donate to VIP and everything you need from engine manuals and wiring manuals will be available.

His word is useless without any blueprints from the engine builder.

Unless you can get it for a killer deal and yank it apart just to check it. Or have it checked.

I've seen a lot of "good engines" end up being duds when they get them.

 

Idk building a used oem block is like teaching a shy girl some porn moves.

Buying a forged used block/parts is like dateing a porn star and her saying that her cold sore is just chapped lipps. I would stay away unless you dont give a shit.

 

thanks for the replies guys. i plan to donate and figured the manual might be in the VIP section. Also, hes asking $1000 canadian which is $750 USD. The block is freshly machined, brand new bearings(rods, mains) ordered by his machine shop, freshly polished crank, wiseco pistons, k1 rods, arp rod bolts, a fresh head thats been cleaned up nicely, fuel rail, injectors, oil pan, new valves, springs, retainers, VVT, cams, ect. basically everything to assemble a nice long block. to give you guys an idea, a stock long block from a wrecker goes for about $3200 here so thats why this is a solid deal. i went over the weekend and checked everything out. the block looks like its never been used(i guess it JUST got back from the machine shop).

Also just to clarify, the motor is currently apart. the guy bought it used but had it taken apart and checked over by a machine shop before he planned to use it. Its still apart so i was able to inspect everything very thoroughly

 

Even if you HAD to scrap all the parts and still machine everything yourself that's still a good deal.

Just for a used head, crank, and block that is still a good deal.

 

my thoughts exactly. im no expert engine builder but my buddy is pretty good, he did my big turbo srt4 motor back in the day, as well as a TON of local srt4s, 420a turbo builds, v8's and what not. he did come with me bringing his measuring tools. block measured just about perfect for a 88mm bore. crank was also almost perfect and the bearings were ordered by the sellers machine shop. im thinking im going to send this guy the money and pick up all of it.

 

so, i ended up getting the lot for 1000 canadian dollars(750 usd). this included a block freshly machined at 88mm, brand new bearings(rods, mains) ordered by his machine shop, freshly polished crank, wiseco pistons, k1 rods, arp rod bolts, a fresh head thats been cleaned up nicely, fuel rail, injectors, oil pan, new valves, springs, retainers, VVT, cams, arp head studs, autotech HPFP internals, oil pan, and a bunch of mazda OEM assembly components (friction washers and whatnot all brand new). guy had a build planned out ready to go, but ended up in a position that took financial priority and he dumped his whole build as quickly as possible.

so i guess this will be the beginning for a built block more me!

 

ditch the wiseco you will have premature oil ring failure. The ARP 2000 headstuds are also no good get either l19 h11 or 625+

 

i know the studs arent great but should hold 450-500whp shouldnt they? also the wiseco's, ive heard theyre loud, piston slap, maybe little oil consumption while cold but i havent read or heard anything about ringland failure?