Well its out!

You really don't want to use a fram oil filter

 

I guess that depends on who you ask EB, may I inquire as to why you have this opinion?

 

The use cheaper materials and the bypass spring is weaker than most other brands. Meaning that most of the time you are using it there is no filtering just bypass

Use either a wix or motorcraft about the same price and much Bette quality

 

Wix / napa gold (they're the same) or OEM Mazda for oil filters is what I've come to.
There have been cases of bad Fram oil filters out of the box failures leading to engine failure or almost failure. That bypass spring and anti back flow gasket are of prime concern on the Fram, I've seen posts about the filters back flowing as well.

 

So I'm guessing no one here reads Bob is the Oil Guy forums? Yes the cheaper Frams are garbage I agree. The FRAM Ultras are very highly rated over there.

 

I didn't know there was a different line I just thought the color was off in your picture that being said I would support a company that makes the flaming garbage of their standard filter

 

EB I hear you but I've been reading about this for the past week or so and it's one of those things you can make yourself nuts with.

So I used to run Purolator Pure Ones for the longest time as the testing on those rated them as top tier. Then some of the dissections over on BOITG revealed some media failures.

So now it looks like WIX and Purolator are manufactured by the same company. Not to say WIX isn't a good filter but it seems to be very specific which filters from any given company are good vs bad.

Those guys on that site treat UOA and filter testing/construction as a hobby. I figure if I pick one of the ones over there they say is good and run it for 3 k I should be fine. There's guys that run these filters over 10k and get good UOA results same with certain filters from other brands.

I'm all for intelligent discussion and figuring out what's best, if anyone has data that points to better results I'd be happy to know!

 

OEM filter is like 9$ on amazon isn't it

 

Well nothing too exciting compared to some of the projects out there but I did hit the Dyno last Thursday. I just wanted to get the bulk of the tuning done so I wouldn't have to take as much risk on the street. I wasn't too sure where I would end up but I am not surprised by the results as I have some restrictions in the system and this only a BNR S2. I'm thinking I need a DP and a 3 inch intake to let this turbo breathe but that will have to wait for now. My long term plan is to get myself a new DD and then address my airflow issues and go to an E30 tune.

 

That's pretty nice for the S2! Yes a DP and 3" intake will probably make it sing but nothing wrong with those numbers at all. How's it feel compared to the ko4?

 

It's not as punchy as the K04 as expected, it comes on a lot smoother. Also feels a lot better past 5000 rpm. It's weird because I know the car is def faster but it's deceptive when you lose that punch the stock turbo had.

I never really anticipated ending up with a built motor when this all started last November, had I known I may have done things a little different.

 

Well I just finished up installing a Cobb catted DP and a JBR 3.5 intake on the car along with a 3 BAR MAP sensor. The plan was to open up my exhaust and intake and see what the S2 Gen2 could do and then I did a thing.....

I was perusing Ebay and saw a brand new in the box BNR S3 for a price I couldn't say no to so I bought it. I guess I get to undo all the work I just did!

At least now I can actually use some of the potential of this built motor. I'm absolutely going to run E30 once I finish up my 93 tune. Should be a fun summer I'm looking forward to having a "Fast" Speed3.

I'm using that term loosely also as I've seen what some of you maniacs have going on!

 

Great choice, S3 is great, spools at about 3500rpm for me. Curious what the powerband is like on the S2?

 

So I haven't tapped the full potential of the S2 because I was on a small intake and the OEM DP. I was planning to retune and see what would happen on new parts.

The power band feels good though it comes on differently than the K04 though and its more of a smooth push than that hard kick but it pulls all the way to 7 K.

Bryan at BNR said that the Gen2 S2 is supposed to have the most power under the curve of any stock flange turbo for the Speed. It's a 43lb-min turbo vs 46lb-min for the S3. I'm sure fully opened up on E30 it would have been fun but I knew I wanted to max stock fuel at some point.

 

Well the car has been on jackstands for the past month. Finished up everything yesterday and got it running again and took it for a few short drives on the basemap for the S3. Just in time also because the weather here was beautiful yesterday and today has turned to shit, have to love Spring in Chicagoland!

So I installed a JBR 3.5 intake on the car and relocated the ECU to the top of the fuse box per the usual. I figured this was the most cost effective was to do this and keep the OEM sized battery and box. One thing I did do though was to make an adapter plate out of some ABS plastic so I could bolt the ECU to that and then bolt that whole thing to the fuse box cover. I also put some 3M Dual Lock in between the fuse box cover and my adapter plate.

My other little project was putting an ethanol sensor in the car as I plan to run E30 and would like to know where my mix is at without playing the guessing game. I made a fuel line using AN 6 PTFE line and fittings to run from the firewall hard line to the sensor and then from the sensor to the HPFP. I mounted the ethanol sensor to the front of the battery box under my EBCS. I had to extend the wires on the harness that was included in order to route everything through the firewall and get to where I plan to mount the gauge.

Cobb Catted DP was also installed as well as a 3 BAR Map sensor and a second catch can from Damond to go with my stage one can. Routing the hoses from the PCV plate to the second vented can was a good time, ended up cutting the handle down on a wrench to get in there!

I'm working on finishing the Ethanol content gauge today which I'm mounting in a vent pod from Late Night Racing. I'll post pictures when that's done. I also have a P0171 code that popped up that Ill have to figure out as well.....UGH always something.

 

Is ABS good to above underhood temps? Le google has it listed as ~221 deg F before fun things start happening.

 

Well you know I never even considered that I just saw an even lower listed temp. I guess I'll make a new one from something more suitable. Thanks for the heads up!

 

Fun fact: I know this because we tried to in-house source some vacuum tubing for a big ol tool. It...didn't survive the negative pressure AND temps we were sucking at.

 

I found that black abs did not like heater line temps. Ballooned and bent a little under the heat / pressure of engine cooling water loop. Was a temporary measure until I found a prebend shape that was just right.

 

Have you considered cutting that hard coolant line to make the clearance for the inlet a bit easier? May need to make/source a fastened hose clamp for the flexible line but it helped my install-ability a bit.