DIY: Radiator Ducting Gen1 (FMIC woes)

If you're like me and have a FMIC, then you've already noticed your coolant temps are stupid high in the summer months. I live in Tucson and our summers are some of the hottest. It wasn't uncommon to see my coolant temps hit 210* on short 15 min drives to work and easily saw 219-228* on the freeways with the A/C on 110*+ days. I know the engine likes to run hot and the ECU compensates fuel trims for this, to get better MPGs and shit, but Horsepower aint got any time for that.

About my car and area affected:
Gen1, CXracing pipes, TR8L core, Damond PS cooler kit, stock crash bar, stock radiator and fan.


I ended up taking my car to the local karting track here in November of 2015. Amb temps were around the mid/high 70s which you would think are ideal for tracking. Most cases, it is. The car easily got heat soaked by the 4 lap and ECT's would max out at 232*F and I would have to take a cool-down/hot/cool and so on. Cool-down laps only got down to 219* and that was with the heater on. Man, was I an unhappy camper and sought out a way to defeat this nonsense.


What you'll need:
- Cardboard
- Scissors
- 2x 10mm bolt/metric
- 14"x24" Aluminum sheet metal (Sold a Lowe's/HomeDepot). Don't use steel because it will rust.
- Sheet metal sheers that cut Multi-directional (also at Lowe's/HD)
- Rubber trim (flex reinforced/moldable) http://a.co/cIR064l
- Heat Gun (helps with rubber trim)
- Aluminum Foil Tape (Pepboys/Autozone)
- Raider's radiator cover for FMIC guys only (Sold at JBR's website)

So one weekend afterwards, I had the car up in the air and started looking at the inefficiencies of the front bumper/radiator flow path and instantly saw the big problem. I took the undertray off and shook my head even more. With the extra obstacle the FMIC provides, it's no wonder the car's cooling is near shit. Air is slowed down too much before it can get to the actual radiator and then has the means to bypass it altogether by going around the sides






So, I started mocking up cardboard to basically act as endplates. I slowly cut them to shape that I needed to fill the area to get a decent seal. During this process of fine-tuning the cardboard, there will be a lot of trial/error with test fitting the bumper. You don't need to full install it. Temp install by engaging the clips is good enough.




Made mine so it uses the factory PS cooler bolt holes in the radiator support. Just use a metric 10mm bolt for mounting.







Next it's time to cut it out of your sheet metal. You're going to use your cardboard cutouts to trace on the sheet metal. Be really careful because sheet metal is sharp and you want to keep all your fingers and blood. Your fitment should have some gaps to it. This gap will be filled up by the rubber trim you purchased




The rubber serves 3 purposes. To seal/keep minimal airflow from escaping. Protecting your charge pipes/PS lines from the sheet metal digging in. And lastly to keep your new hack job from sounding like a loose ass exhaust heat shield rattling everywhere you go.




I used my heat gun to help contour the rubber trim around the curves




Use the foil tape to seal the aft edges against the plastic radiator support






Lastly, if you'll install "Raider's" radiator shroud. This is the last piece to the puzzle. It keeps the air from bypassing over the topside. Keeping the high pressure area in front of the radiator and a lower pressure zone behind it.





I have had this setup installed for 1.5 yrs now. It definitely helps out a lot. On those same summer days, temps went from 210 to 190-199 on my 15 min commute (which is city). Highway temps are usually around 210 and lower. And my track temps got no higher than 219 in 80* amb temps.

Now during cooler months <60*F is where the magic happens. I noticed that when I did a 4th gear pull with ECT's starting at 192*F at the end of the pull, ECT's dropped down to 178*!!! The FMIC dropped temps much quicker and resisted heat soak better.

___________ Before: _______ After:
Commute:___ 210*F ________ 190-199*F @100+*F amb
Highway:____ 219*F ________ 210*F and Lower @ 100+*F amb
Track:_______219-232*F_____ 219*F maximum @ 75-85*F amb

 

I am intrigued by this idea and would like to subscribe to your newsletter.

 

This is awesome, nice work.

 

If you wanted to add to this to improve the function of the intercooler you could construct a "cup" on the front of the intercooler to create a pocket of air which will be forced through. You will also need to seal the back of the intercooler to the front of the radiator to create a pressure differential and maximize airflow