First time owner G2 speed3

I appreciate all contributors!

You guys rock and I apologize if it's a million questions. Still learning about my car and that's the fun part.

From the beginning, I had developed a connection to the speed3. Knew it's something special and unique.

I went from many questions to better understanding. Still a long ways to go, but am glad for advice and tips I've gotten up to this point. If someone spots an issue in my logs, please do let me know.

Observations : since there was a possibility of a bad reflash, I went for a drive earlier today. I noticed something very different with my AP. I didn't log today, but the AFR and boost seemed more targeted compared to before. I will see if I can datalog a wot tomorrow. If not, then Monday morning.

 

Punch it!!! Woooo!



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My exhaust. No brand as it was built by muffler shop for PO of my speed3.

As suggested by @Duey1083, I added actual throttle position for datalog.

I also did 2 wot pulls, but fell short of redline in 5th. Will do the upload later because I forgot the cable for my laptop. Lol.

Engine bay is filthy and will upload a pic of the CS CAI. Thanks for all the help so far.

Edit : I enabled the 6 gauge layout on my AP. Does anyone know how to customize it? I can Google it, but thought I just ask.

 

soooo datalogging is usually done in 4th gear because of the ratio or 3rd, dont want to be boosting in 5th or 6th if you're not going into it from high rpm from the gear before (almost redline)...torque loading is bad in those gears

 

So just 3rd - 4th. Gotcha.

 

To second @Awafrican, the datalog should typically cover just one pull in either 3rd gear or 4th gear, but not typically back to back like you described. You dont need to go through all of the gears...haha, in addition to the concerns that were laid out in the post above, I'd hate to be on the other side of the law with a pull to redline in 5th...that's just not safe for any public road.

How to do various datalogs:


How to configure gauges on AP:

Not 3rd to 4th...just 3rd or 4th.

Watch the link to the first video in my previous post

 

Thanks

Engine bay pics. Bit dark, but did the best I could.

 

@Duey1083 is there some flaw in 5th and 6th to not handle to torque and horsepower band from mid-range that can prematurely fracture or even catastrophic failure of the transmission?

Another question that has been bugging me is the knock retard. In my last logs I noticed that during the beginning of the pull it would read 0, but as approaching 4500 rpm, the value increases. Is this the ecu just making adjustments?

 

It's not so much the transmission the can't take it is the rods in the engine that can't take the low end torque, you can boost in 5th or 6th but if you're wot in those gears you should be coming out of a basically maxed 4th to ensure the rpm is high enough to not throw a rod. That's generally a rule for any car in top gear is downshift to accelerate, automatics do it all the time.

You can get a little increase in knock as the turbo fully spools, KR only becomes a concern over 1.0 and depending on who you talk is really only a concern when you get close to that 2.0 side note partial throttle knock while driving is also perfectly normal

 

In my experience running a Cobb map it was always around that 12 afr mark which is the most lean you want to run so that can sometimes cause a bit of knock as well. This is another good reason to run a protune, because then you can keep it more in the happy mid to high 11.5-11.75 afrs and know it isn't borderline too lean.

 

This is all good info. Thanks for the support.

I haven't looked into the specs or brand of plugs for the speed3 in the om. What plugs and gap are you using in your mzr?

 

Time to learn how to search my friend into Google: "spark plug site:mazdaspeeds.org"Or whatever topic you want will only return forum posts. NGK 0.026" to 0.028" gap 6510 for 1 step colder 6509 for stock heat range (you can do stock range until you add more mods and tune) https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/spark-plug-data-base.1436/

 

[mention]Pcktrckt [/mention] This is seriously a great way to find info in the forum.


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Will do. Thanks.

I have seen this mentioned in other thread, but just wanted to get an idea of what the vets run in their speed3/6 builds.

 

Definitely get the NGKs in the stock heat range...also, buy your plugs locally and not online. There is some suspicion that there may be counterfeits on Amazon and eBay.

Avoid the other brand (cant think of the name right now).

Don't go one step colder yet.

 

I know about the counterfeit plugs for denso and ngk. My assumption is the step colder will be after the tune?

 

No you don't need colder plugs in a dd

 

I beg to differ lol What you meant to say is that you don't need one step colder plugs in an average dd haha 500hp might thanks you for a step colder plug

 

You should have plugs based on primary use. If you have colder plugs and ride on the highway mostly they will foul. If you beat the piss out of the car all the time you might need colder plugs. You need to read your plugs and adjust from there not just assume you need colder because you are at a certain power level.

Keep in mind that because we are turbocharged that on a normal commute the motor will be performing pretty much the same duty regardless of turbo size. It's not like an NA car with a ton of overlap in the cam to make power

 

It's been quiet since my last post. Busy with life in general. My parts arrived from corksport on Monday. I'm stoked about getting them installed. But I've decided to delay the install a little longer. The issue for me is pretty simple. In need of a long tube cat dp. Trying to find them used, but for obvious reasons, the welds need to be closely inspected even if name brand. Plus, it's my DD and don't have another way to get around atm.