First time owner G2 speed3

Do you read the answers people give you? The second cat is unmonitored you can remove it and nothing happens so just buy a test pipe and move on. Stop overthinking it trying to prove the flex joint that Mazda felt was necessary to include

 

Yes I do read what is being posted. Thanks.

Am hesitant yes to doing the downpipe. Why? It due to a multitude of things. Most of all, I want something that's going to last a while and not blow up in my face later down the road. Also, I want to keep a cat on the exhaust so going to a high flow cat option there.

Additional joints do make a difference as fail points and causes leaks. I work around exhaust lines on a daily basis and know that flow restrictions exist with longer and shorter piping with multiple connections. But thanks for the comments and yes I do overthink my purchases. I'm trying to avoid owning a paper weight in the end.

 

I got around to installing my CS HPFP internals. Noticed a few changes. Not sure why, but did happen.

Still on OTS Stage 0 map. Noticed at idle HPFP pressure is @ 400. Is this normal? Did a boost load and pressures above 1600. Then I noticed that AFR is leaning out. Is this normal? Have not had a chance to clean my MAF yet.

 

We'll, it's been sometime since my last post. Was able to get some traction on the DP.

I was able to get my hands on a used CPE catless DP. Really wanted a 1 piece and it popped up. I'm in the process of removing the stock one. The turbo seal got a copper spray and was able to get it locally from my stealership.

I also got a CPE TMIC on order. Due to delays, it won't arrive until mid March at the latest. I also upgraded the OEM hoses to the TMIC to silicone.

That's it for now. Should be finished tomorrow.

When I removed my o2 sensors, the upper sensor is covered in soot. It's been rich all this time. Whilst the downstream o2 was ok, but upon closer inspection it looks to be running lean. These may be the reason why my AFR is out of balance. When I go to reinstall them, if no cel or cel pops, the plan is to have tuner turn off the upstream o2 and get a replacement downstream o2.

Tuning is now delayed due to no TMIC. In the meantime, looking for E85 solenoid. Planning to use AEM universal kit. I've determined not to opt to upgrade the injectors and fuel pump for now. Because my goal is to build a solid daily.

 

What injectors are you upgrading

 

you realize that upstream is the primary O2 sensor and needed right tuner aint disabling that if you think it's dead then replace it. if you're tuning you need to upgrade that HPFP internals even if you just have an intake on the gen2. also yes which injectors are you upgrading because there are no upgrades for the injectors only way to "upgrade" them is to run port injection (running more of them).

 

I don't think he realizes what direct injection is

 

My thoughts exactly... Here is what a ok running K04 turbo exhaust port looks like, that sensor you believe is sooty is only 4-5 inches away from this outlet environment so that is a normal sensor surface. The lower is after cat, catalyst reduction involves heat and chemical reactions so that lower sensor must look different unless cat is polluted or bad.
As stated above..... You must have first sensor and if your opinion is to remove you have better spent more time understanding our vehicles platform tuning.
The first sensor is in a closed loop with the fueling, ecu looks in real time at sensors, fixed programming (tune mods too) based on inputs modify injector duty cycle and fuel pressure to bring into what ever mixture air/fuel ratio, timing, vvt ecu wants in next loop cycle.

 

I am not wanting start crap on the forum but you guys need to take it easy. I have enjoyed being a part of this forum for going on 5 years now and don't want it being turned into some obnoxious place with people smarting off to everyone else. Especially with new members we need to be kind. He isn't trying to ignore what you are telling him, he just simply doesn't fully understand our platform and has been respectful to you.

As for your questions and hesitancy about the dp and all that, the first O2 sensor is the only one needed to tune and the second O2 sensor doesn't really matter. The catalytic converter answer I would think would be to just use a midpipe in place of your second cat until test time and then throw in the cat to pass the tests.
W
Would be very simple to switch out and give you a high flowing setup the rest of the 2 years between tests. If you really don't want to have to do that then have a high flow cat made with flanges that will bolt up just like the stock one does.

Lastly, the o2 sensor having soot is normal. Having a catless dp you might get a cel for it, but you are correct that an etuner will turn that code off. Your AFR's are probably lean because you are on a Cobb map. Mine were always close to 12 when I ran a Cobb map. I suggest if nothing else to just get a basic base map tune from freaktune or purple drank tuning if you don't want to do a full custom tune right now. It will be cheaper than a custom tune and will still be much safer than running that Cobb map.

 

Read the whole thread. This guy has no idea what is going on and has completely ignored any helpful suggestions. I half think he doesn't read the replies

 

So far, it's fine. No cel yet. It won't be driven for now. Waiting on my TMIC. Delayed until March. Going dyno tune in early April.

I appreciate the feedback, but waited until a 1 piece catless dp came up for sale. Also verified shaft play, and there's none.

Yes, I'm hesitant, but within reason. You can bash me all you want, but can careless. Once the tune is done, then everything comes back part for powder coating.

I have my HPFP internals since December. DP installed. Primary covered in soot and no cel prior to install. My logs shows more lean on OTS map. I've parked it until tune.

Next is to do tmic upgrade, plugs, valve cover gasket, coolant, serp belt and gear oil so that it's fresh for tune.

If the cel pops, then I'm going to replace them. As long as it's not posting, I won't replace the o2's.

 

I understand lol

Your o2 sensor closest to the turbo will always be black like that it's normal man. The o2 sensor won't throw a code until you put the catless dp on.

 

So far, no codes. The afr needs to be dialed in by tuner. Just waiting for the tmic and then off to tune. Around March.

 

Thanks for the feedback and support. I'm still learning as I go along. This is my first FI turbo so have a learning curve.

The reason I chose the long Dp is due to efficiency. The less connections, the better off I am. Everything went well and so far no cels.

As for emissions, I think I'm good. They don't do a visual and I have to remember to remove my ap. Lol.

Afr is everywhere now and using cobb OTS Stage 1 just to test. It's been parked since the afr went from 12 under boost to 15 under boost. My instincts and experience tells me to stop driving it otherwise I get zzb.

I'm getting a dyno tune in March. Still have to start the EGR delete. But am a bit confused about the coolant bypass on the TB. What is the benefit of doing the bypass over not touching it?

I have help locally, so it's making more sense as it is explained. Going to be adding e85 tune also. Which also needs more research. I've heard of black death being mentioned on the stock system, but not wanting to go into port injection just yet. As I want to be able to build a solid daily driver.

Turbo shaft play is non existent. So not worried about the k04 dumping yet. Have plans for a different turbo in the future. Lucky for me, I got this forum and my buddy to help me along the way.

 

I have a "full" dp that is catless as well and sometimes my car wouldn't throw a code for the missing cat for a good while. It probably will eventually throw a code but it's no big deal. If you hit 15afr in boost that is super super bad and I'm surprised you didn't blow it up lol I would definitely check everything out to make sure you don't have any fuel issues with your system. I know you said you aren't driving it but of you were seeing anything under 1700psi during your WOT logs then they aren't working correctly.

If you live where it is cold at all don't do the TB coolant bypass. To answer about the E85 I am told that a mix of 93 and E85 to make E30 or so is safe and free from black death in the hpfp. I think it's when you run E50 or higher that you get issues from it mostly but correct me if I am wrong plz anyone.

 

Having gone this route this last summer, you are correct about anything in the e25 to e35 mixture range being safe.

 

Also fairly easy to solve black death with ethanol safe o-rings, Rey's Mazda parts selling rebuildkits (can be had on graveyard performance and use mso5 coupon code for 5% off). Includes all o-rings and filter even includes new bolts to replace the torx bolts. (CS just started selling kits too). Good hpfp clean and fresh o-rings good to go (still would recommend routine cleaning on hpfp if running E50 or higher)

 

Keeping in mind you'll start running out of fueling room on the stock injectors if you're running higher ethanol mixes. Anyone running setups with no aux fueling would likely see no benefit running higher than an e30 mix anyways.

I am probably wrong on this point, but good to mention the additional fuel injector capacity requirements when running ethanol.

 

Yes fueling headroom is lost when running E mix fuel. Also @Awafrican yeah that kit isn't even very expensive either I don't think. Im pretty sure it is like $30-40 right?

 

$45 when you use mso5 as the coupon code from graveyard https://www.graveyardperformance.co...-hpfp-rebuild-kit?_pos=1&_sid=ce2cd2972&_ss=r

I have dealt with them and they're great shipped quick, trying to get them as a vendor here