Bought a Speed6 last week. Loads of fun so far!

We recently moved farther from my work, so I was shopping for a good commuter to supplement my 4Runner. I wanted something kind of fun (turbo(?) and manual), then this Speed6 popped up just down the road. Went for a test drive and bought it the same day. PO used it only for commuting w/ 147,000 miles. I knew nothing about Mazda, let alone the Mazdaspeed6. Brought it home, drove it about 20 miles to the next town, and it threw a cyl 3 misfire code on the way home... Good investment. I pulled the spark plugs... Lawd have mercy. They looked like Civil War relics, so I replaced those and knew I was in for catching up with a lot of preventive maintenance.

I bought it on April 16, and I've since changed the plugs, cleaned the air filter/throttle body/intercooler/engine bay, oil change, trans/PTO/rear diff fluid change, replaced all soft lines in power steering system/flushed and filled, and have waxed the dogsh!t out of the paint as it's badly faded on the hood and roof. As you can see, looks like the PO used a mix of coolant and power steering fluid where ATF is called for in the PS system. I also noticed soft steering in right turns/harder steering in left turns. Everything online talks about the passenger side MM going bad, so I replaced that - the OEM mount had failed BADLY, and it drives and shifts a lot smoother now.

While going through things, I confirmed the following upgrades.

COBB Accessport w/ Stage 1 tune uploaded
COBB EBC
SURE Short-shifter plate and stainless shifter knob
SURE Cold Air Intake
SURE Oil Catch Can
James Barone Racing rear and driver side motor mounts
Unknown down-pipe with cat delete
Turbosmart BOV w/ recirc plugged
Autometer boost gauge mounted in driver dash A/C pod

I've had the car for 9 days, and it has been jacked up with me under it 8 of those days. These things are a blast. I know that I need to confirm whether or not the high pressure fuel mod has been addressed, but is there anything else you'd recommend as a maintenance item to check in on? Seems like whoever owned it prior to the guy that I bought it from took good care of it and upgraded it with quality/tasteful mods.

 

welcome to MSO! glad you're enjoying the speed 6. amazing what a fresh set of plugs can do.

Worth cleaning that MAF as well, do you know the the VVT was serviced? something that you want to keep an eye on, any chain slap on the VC is a bad time, you can check tensions of timing chain at TDC with the VC off and inspect the VC for chain slap at the same time (keeping in mind it may have been doing around 100-120k so perhaps old marks if it's there but if chain is loose then I'd say it's new).

def worth having a look at the intake valves and probably giving them a clean, good time to have the fuel injectors ultrasonic cleaned and flow tested at the same time, that and a normal make sure all fluids are fresh which it sounds like you're ontop of, certainly want to get into that HPFP and check for upgrades (which you're already tracking).

If you're looking to start making power you also want to upgrade the RMM and rear diff mount, pretty nice looking 6 you got there.

 

I've read about the VVT servicing, but I wasn't sure how to diagnose it (noise, loss of power, etc.), so thanks for the tip on checking for slap. The PO said my test drive was the hardest the car had ever been driven since he'd owned it, and I was going medium on it. I'm sure the valves have plenty of buildup from it being driven like a grocery getter. I have a used CX Racing front mount on the way, so I'll pull the VC and check the chain/valves when I pull the TMIC back off. Probably check the fuel pump at the same time. I had a hard time getting the AP to communicate with the ECM, but I've read that it'll read the FP at the rail. Would that be a reliable way to confirm the high pressure upgrade or worth it to just open 'er up?

The RMM was upgraded to a James Barone RMM, but it's the older, square tube/tig welded version with 80D bushings. Forgot to check on the rear diff mount while under there. I think I'll hold where it is for a few months to keep shaking out problems before I push for more power. Appreciate all the information, and, yes, I don't think I could have found a more fun ride for the $5K I have in it! The interior is nearly perfect minus a broken hinge on the dash compartment. I generally go for Toyota's because they're so well thought out and easy to work on; Mazda seems to track with that - everything comes apart and goes back together logically.

I'll search the forums, but if anybody has found a reliable way to clip the front bumper on, I'm all ears. I can't seem to get the "wings" just in front of the front wheel wells to stop from pulling out.

 

Unfortunately the only way to check the hpfp is to pull it, you cans ee hpfp actual pressure yes but the dip you would be looking for would be during a WOT pull in 3rd or 4th gear not the time to be looking for a fuel dip, even that's no reliable which is why the recommendation is just pull the hpfp, when you do check the chain ensure you're at TDC. Also fyi cx racing fmic core really isn't better than stock if at all. good news is the piping works great with the treadstone TR6/8 cores.

as for the bumper sometimes its the clip on the body bracket that is worn and this the bumper does not clip into place at which point you can simply replace the bracket and be good to go, if the tab on the bumper is broken then you're not so lucky and some quick release clips become the best bet, Raider our forum founder and some other members worked with quick latch to design a custom kit: https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...1st-gen-mazdaspeed-3-bumper-fitment-fix.2343/

 

should get a real etune, the cobb ots tunes are garbage

 

^this is true, even a freektune OTS map is better than the cobb ones get a little calibration for your car and from personal experience it drives much much smoother some of the best money I have ever spent on my ms3. https://www.freektune.com/products/mazdaspeed3-6-ots-plus-map

 

Check your HPFP relief valve too. Its easy peasy.

Fully warmed up engine post shutoff should have fuel pressure rising to above 1600 PSI. If not, replace valve.

 

Thanks for the tips. I did already order the replacement "natural" colored brackets, so that should help. The large holes closest to the wheel well are broken on both D/P side... sounds like a job for epoxy as I'm sure these bumpers aren't easy to come by.

Will do on tuning. I've never run a COBB product. As Trump said, "Sounds good; Doesn't work." I can feel it leaning out higher in the RPM range, especially in 6th for some reason on the interstate.

Yeah - The CX core looks.... not great... with the janky, stacked thin and thick design. I'm mostly in it for the plumbing @ $300 to get the intercooler away from the heat since ambient gets well above 100 where I live in the summers. I can find another intercooler. This forum is great so far. I'll stop asking questions and try to find answers myself, but thanks a ton to all who've responded.

 

Welcome, This is great...we have new Speed6 owners popping up on the forum every day lately.

Still way more Speed3s, but we have a table going over here in the corner, lol

 

Top mount is actually better than front mount under 400 hp if the Underhood duct work is intact

 

Welcome to the forum and as stated by @SyntheticAtmosphere I am also glad to see more speed 6 guys on here. If you you have any questions feel free to ask me!

 

Interesting. The duct work is all in great shape. Based on Awafrican's comments and yours, I'm foregoing the FMIC and going to continue the focus on going through all the systems to make sure everything's reliable. I know it's not the proper way to check the chain tension, but I can reach through the oil fill hole on the VC and touch the chain. Feels a little loose, but I don't see witness marks on the VC (again, I know I can't see the whole area for contact). No/very little metal in the oil - went ahead and changed it again last night after 500+/- miles since the previous owner didn't seem to care for PM, and it was purdy dark.

So - I'm going to change the timing chain and VVT. I know there are numerous threads on which parts to use and stay away from. Are there other upgrades worth making while it's stripped? I.E. head gasket, head studs, valves/springs, etc.? I seem to be losing a little oil with no leaks and not getting crud on the rear bumper from burn, so something to keep an eye on.

@SyntheticAtmosphere - It's been a warm welcome! I can't believe these cars were never on my radar, and I'm thrilled to see there's a supportive group of members that have already mapped out a ton of problems and upgrades.

 

OEM head gasket and studs are good to around 500 ft/lb tq. You will not really need to pull the head to do timing. Upgrading the valve train is not really necessary until you go build and get more fuel. OEM setup can rev to 7200 all day long.

 

Thanks. Knew the head wouldn't come off for timing/VVT service, but timing/VVT would have to come back apart if I were wanting to replace HG/studs in the future. No plans to go to those numbers on torque, so I'll keep it simple.

 

Continued surprises, mostly good!

VVT gear and timing chain appear to be in great condition
Cams/valve cover in great shape - shockingly absolutely no sludge when I pulled the VC
AutoTech internals (looks like full pump) are there
HT18s-2s turbo "upgrade"(? still researching whether this is good of bad)
JBR driver side MM
EGR block spacer(?) installed under the two-bolt connection on the EGR valve.

The EGR block seemed to be leaking and threw a p0401, which is what finally triggered the partial tear-down. Went to place an order for a delete kit from Damond, but I'm not very patient. Decided to make my own; 10/10 would not recommend to anybody or would I repeat the process - not difficult, just not worth the time for a $45 kit. Happy with how it turned out and it justified some of the tools I keep around. Plugged the IM hole with a brass plug ("1/2 MIP Counter Sunk Plug Lead Free" from Ace), chopped the EGR tube at the plate and threaded then welded a bolt to block it off and flush ground it, then made the EGR delete plate from 3/8" aluminum w/ brass fitting for coolant. All sealed up with Permatex ultra copper.

I was waiting to go through all of this before placing my e-tune order with Freektunes. Debating whether or not to swap the turbo out for something else prior to a new tune - there's a BSN S4 for sale locally, but I think that's larger than I need/want for my goals. Any feedback on continuing with the HT18s-2s would be greatly appreciated. I know it's from a late gen RX-7 and it's twin scroll. Other than that, I know very little about it. Not sure if it's modified for this application, but it drops right in and seems to fit perfectly with the stock manifold/TMIC piping and SURE CAI plumbing. Spools quickly but does seem to run out of air in higher RPMs. My super reliable COBB AP (VI - ollllllld) says I'm making 318.4 HP at 4,400 RPM in a 3rd gear pull. Haven't been able to upload the data logs because all 3 of my laptops are work-owned and won't allow me to download the AP software.

New RMM (COBB) on the way to replace my old JBR mount with questionable bushings. Going to pull the IM off to give the valves a scrub. I keep looking for weaknesses or shortcuts taken by whoever modified this thing, but it has so far been almost all good discoveries aside from dated parts upgrades.

 

You are going to need a laptop of computer to load your tunes onto the ap

 

Yep - shopping for a cheap one or I'll ask IT to allow the download as commuting as quickly as possible is somewhat work-related.

 

When you checked chain tension, was the crank at TDC? Doesn't look like it in the pictures. Even with no chain slap marks on the TC, could still be a potential issue.

If you have questions in regards to timing feel free to ask me. I'm working with another member right now doing his and have personally done VVT swap countless times.

Nice car, fantastic purchase and welcome the community!

 

Thanks for reiterating the TDC advice that Awafrican had already stated above. I did not take the time to rotate to TDC, so back in I'll go. Started a different thread for a vacuum port that was broken off on the VTCS so I'll have parts all over the garage again soon anyway. I did get a big ol black ploof of oil smoke in higher RPM/full boost the other day, so I'm guessing the HT18 turbo "upgrade" is on the way out, also. Somebody on a FB group said that it was a smaller turbo than the K04, but I've had some difficulty finding the specs online to compare side to side.

I did swap the old JBR RMM for a newer Corksport RMM. Got some noise after a mile or so of driving, retorqued, noise continued. Checked the Driver MM (also JBR installed by previous, previous owner) and the main thru bolt was backed out at least 1/4 of the way!!! Cars with mods performed by others will certainly keep you on your toes every time you hear a new sound or vibration.