[SOLVED] Codes P0103 and P0108 and Traction Control light on

Im having trouble diagnosing this rough idle and poor driveability issue, ive replaced both maf and map sensors, yet these 3 codes persist. The traction control light came on at the same time as these codes which does not make sense to me as they are unrelated. I have looked for chafed or cut wires around the MAF and MAP but have not found anything, ive inspected the pcm connectors incase this is the reason for the random issue, and to my knowledge they look fine. Any ideas?


P0103
P0108
P0098 !
Forgot to mention the third code, these codes came on simultaneously.

For some more backstory.
I was driving the car home from work early in the morning since I forgot to bring something witih me. Temp about 75 degrees F outside. I was in a bit of a hurry so I was in about 7 pounds of boost. I dont like to push the car since it's not properly tuned. And from a 2-3 shift I hear a coupler blow off. Luckily I was already close to home so I limp the car home and take my miata to work instead.
The speed sits for about 3 days until I have time to fix it. Come a saturday morning, I bring the car to work my place which happens to be a garage, via a tow truck. (All my tools are at work) I take the filter and turbo inlet off in order to reinstall the coupler that came unattached. (Coupler that blew off was the inlet to the intercooler)
When I assembled everything back together It would turn on and turn off seconds later. I fixed this issue as well as I noticed I simply installed the MAF tube housing backwards. Idiot. Car finally ran great up until 2 days later. Where now I get these 3 codes and my traction control light illuminates. I bought the car an Accessport hoping that maybe it just needed a tune, as the previous owner had an AP, just unmarried it and left the mount behind.



Year/Make/Model: 2013 Mazdaspeed 3
Mileage: 70204
Location: Laredo, Tx (Deep south very near border)
Concern: Car has an inconsistent rough idle, afr hovers @ 9:1 - 10:1, reaks of fuel
DTC's: P0103, P0108, P0098 and traction control light on
Modifications: CS front mount intercooler, HPFP Internals, CS Turbo Inlet and Air filter, MS3 Gen 2 catback. (Those are the mods it has to my knowledge, i bought the car from a california dealer and unknowingly came modified.
ECU/Tuning Software: Cobb AP V3
Tuner: Car is on an OTS tune Stage 1+ SF 93v
Is the concern intermittent? Yes, all the time
Can you duplicate the concern? Yes, letting the car run normally
Recent Repairs: NGK Irdidium Pregapped 0.026 spark plugs from CS, MAF sensor from oreillys, 3.5 bar CS Map sensor
Correction:

 

Take a look at the post "Troubleshooting Sheet" at the top of this sub and add all that information to your post.

The more information we have the easier it will be to try and point you in the right direction.

What brand of MAF sensor did you put in?

These cars are very picky about the MAF sensor. I would only suggest an OEM one from Mazda or a Denso as they manufacture the OEM one for Mazda.

 

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I just edited the start of the thread for improved diagnosis. I bought a MAF sensor from oreillys but I forgot the named brand it has on it, Id have to check, it is not OEM nor is it a Denso sensor.

I already attacked my suspicion of the MAF sensor though, it was my first diagnosis, I had 3 different MAF sensors installed and the problem stayed the same, One of which was an OEM sensor. Thats not the sensor that is in the car though, I had bought another one thnking that OEM sensor was bad as well as someone had lent it out to me.

 

Most auto parts stores computers assume that all Mazda 3s use the same MAF which they don't.

Did you confirm the spark plug gap before installing

Did you insect the couplers for tears?

 

You say the car is on a Stage 1 OTS tune is that the Cobb tune that comes preloaded? You also mention a CS TIP is is stock sized or is it larger? The FMIC on a Cobb stage 1 tune also raises some questions for me.

Rock Auto has the Denso MAF for about $95 I'm running that one in my car.

What condition is the battery in? Has the car seen a low voltage condition recently? Low voltage can make the ECU in these cars display all kinds of funky DTCs sometimes which can be misleading to the actual problem.

What do your LTFT and STFT look like?

Have you cleared all the codes to see if they return?

I'm not sure what your goals are with the car but the cheapest way to get a proper tune on the car would be with FreekTune. He offers an OTS tune with I think 1 revision that accounts for the mods to your car. Someone else can probably give more detail on that as I have no experience with that tune.

https://www.freektune.com/products/mazdaspeed3-6-ots-plus-map

 

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Yea the sparkplug gap was true to its claim, at 0.026, And I did also check couplers to see if they had any tears or holes. They didn't have any. However due to the codes, its to suspect a vacuum leak, but the car has so many possible vacuum hoses at the engine bay I wouldn't know where to start without getting lost.

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Its on a cobb tune stage 1 right now because I was troubleshooting, before I had put it on a Stage 2 OTS tune. But the car felt like it ran worse, with I think black smoke out the exhaust. ( It was night its the only time I get to work on the car during the week )

The TIP is stock sized, it isn't super large like other builds have them. And you're correct to have suspicions with the car being on a Stage 1 tune with a FMIC and all the other engine mods that it has. I haven't properly tuned the car yet becuase I just received the Accessport I think it was this Thursday. My job takes up my whole day so it wouldn't be until today, Saturday, a day that I can dive deeper into whats wrong with the thing.

Honestly, the battery is not a good kind of battery. It literally says "Budget Battery" on the side of it. The car came with it from California, I knew it was a bad battery, becuase you can even hear the acid sloshing around if you pick it up. When I was flashing the car with the Stage 1+ tune. The AP read 11.9 V, KOEO which ill say is on the lower side, but im not sure while its running. The car cranks up fine without hesitation, wouldn't that imply that the battery is sending enough current to all circuits? At least not enough to act the way it is?

Oh. I haven't thought about checking my fuel trims, what are the parameters? What are they supposed to look like? Ill do that.

Yeah, ive cleared all the codes, I clear them everytime I do something different to the car to see if it changed anything. But the moment the car starts up, the codes come up not a second after the engine is running.

My goal with the car is believe it or not, It just a good daily driver. Its the whole reason I bought the thing. I wanted to make my miata a project car, but its being more reliable than the speed. The mods that the speed came with were unexpected. So now I want the car to run safely and make the power its supposed to make with all those mods. Which im assuming is about 300whp? Idk what the previous owner was doing with it, I don't have any contact with the guy He's probably in here somewhere, not sure how you can get away with owning a speed and not ending up on formus.

Yea i'd like more information on getting a tune withi freektune, but shouldn't I wait until those codes are gone? and the car is running decent on an OTS tune?

When I first bought the car back in late June, It ran great, it was that way for months. Before I came to the knowledge of the Mazdaspeed community.

 

So if you want to pinpoint a leak in the intake system I would look into smoke testing and either build yourself a smoke machine or buy one. I have this one and it works well provided you have a compressed air source.



If you don't have an air compressor just watch some videos on YouTube about different options as to how to do this.

If you want to take a bit of a deep dive into fuel trims this video is excellent in fact this guys whole channel is great for understanding automotive troubleshooting.



Since you wiped the DTCS in the ecu you will not have any LTFT until you actually are able to get around 20-30 miles on the car and let the computer learn. Your STFT will start populating immediately if you start the car and let it idle and give you an idea what kind of problem you might be looking for.

If you want some more detailed information about your DTCs I would suggest using FORSCAN, you can down load it on your phone and pair it to an OBD ELM Bluetooth adapter to get data from the car. It will let you see developing DTCS and will allow you to see snapshot data about what triggered a DTC.

https://forscan.org/home.html

I had a hell of a summer myself with trying to figure out some issues with my car. I'm glad its behind me but at the same time I learned A LOT.

 

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Ill watch that fuel trims video here in a moment.

I just got back home from a buddys house, he does tuning on the side and tunes all his cars. He looked at my fuel trims through the accessport and saw that both LTFT and STFT were reading 0. And let me down the path to change my 02 sensors. He said that they should be reading anywhere between -1 and -2. What do you think about this?

Im also thinking about towing the car on a trailer to Houston and looking for somebody to help me diagnose and tune the car. Well at least thats an opinion im hearing. But im not sure how good of an Idea it is. Since Im not that knowledgable in tuning. And have little experience in diagnosis in this manner.

He said the 02 sensors being out could be the reason those 3 codes are active, on top of the traction control light being on.

 

Well your LTFT is going to read zero if the ECU has been cleared. Like I mentioned it's going to take at least 20 miles to develop any meaningful trend with the LTFT.

Also if you haven't let the car run for any period of time at all you really won't have any STFT data although it does populate more rapidly. Did you take a data log and review the spreadsheet or just look at it in real time on the AP?

It could be your O2, it could be your MAF also if it's not a Denso or OEM one currently. Is it either of those? Maybe yes, maybe no to be sure you'd need to diagnose further.

The solution you propose seems like it's going to cost a bit and take a bit of time and resources. So you are going to have to make a decision.

As much as I'm not a fan of just pulling the parts cannon and hoping it fixes the problem it might be worth trying a new 02 before you go to all the trouble to transport the car somewhere.

Also you really need to be on a proper basemap for the mods the car has to even have a good starting point. Something being off with the tune calibration can make a big difference.

As far an an 02 sensor goes I would point you towards the NTK 24393 from Rock Auto as NGK/NTK is the OEM manufacturer for Mazda for the OEM 02.

I'm also running that exact same Primary 02 in my car because I had a whole bunch of fun this past summer chasing DTCs.

If it were me with what I've learned I would start with getting a proper tune. I would suggest either Purple Drank or FreekTune and just explain you need a proper basemap to sort out your issues before moving forward with any revisions. Once you have that basemap you can start looking at fuel trims or any other parameters to help better diagnose your issues.

 

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Jesus man, you're a mazdaspeed prophet, I haven't heard a single bit of advice that has given me a good plan.

I saw the STFT live through the accessport, I know its rather rapid to start reading and I drove about 8 miles and It never picked up from 0. Is 8 miles to little?

The parts cannon humored me. I was thinking the same, to buy an 02 sensor, the one right on the turbo since it's a bit more important.

Yeah. The tune. You think I can get the car tuned with the way that its running right now? Don't you need to drive the thing around town and go through the rpm ranges?

Damn a whole part number for an 02 sensor, this is gonna come in extremely useful, thank you. Im curious what codes you were chasing.

Alright, base map, get the revision later.

 

I'm far from a prophet but thanks, I'm just slightly smarter than your average idiot and I've done a thing or two.

There are some legitimate prophets around this place though, there are some very smart people on this forum with regards to this platform.

Like I said I would start with getting a known good basemap for whatever mods are on the car. From there I would learn everything you can about STFT and LTFT and what they mean and how they work. I would also learn about how to troubleshoot a bad 02. The information is out there if you want learn it I've already pointed you towards one great channel.

The problem is trying to figure out what is good info vs bad. Scanner Danner is a great channel as well as Eric the Car Guy you can learn a lot from both of them.

As far as what I was dealing with last summer....

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/2013-mazdaspeed-3-p0171.15638/

 

I’m gonna start off with that base map, while i’m at it i’ll see if any stores near me have that exact part # for the 02 sensor. If not, rock auto is a homie. I never knew the Speeds were so picky with their food.

I really appreciate the help, i’ll come back if I need more. I’m now obligated to return to this thread to give the conclusion of what the problem was. It’s always satisfying to figure it all out.

let’s see what you were battling

 

Also if you become a Metal member here you'll have access to the Factory Service manual and classifieds. It's a pretty damn good deal for a minimum donation of $10 for the year!

Rock Auto will most likely have the best price on that part.

 

where do I become a metal member this sounds like a steal.

 

It's in the drop down menu next to Home you'll see Donate at the bottom.

 

I did the thing.

 

This problem has been remedied. In case you find yourself with these codes here what I did to fix it. Simple as a MAF sensor replacement (With a very specific one). And a MAP element cleaning.

I did not have the car tuned, and I followed @Mtnbker3531 's advice. Got the OTS+ map tune with freektune. Got a base map with Justin. The car has ran for a week without any issues. I have yet to do the revision however, those 2 codes are gone and far from suspicious action.

The MAP sensor you wanna look for, is an OEM from mazda MAF sensor. OR a denso sensor since they manufacture the part for mazda

OEM (L3K9)
Denso 604 MAF.

On top of that, make sure you have a good tune in your car, shouldn't have to be said. But it's what I had to do.

Oh! and the traction control light came off with the P0103 code.

 

Glad you were able to get it resolved. Also thanks for giving us an update!