Ebay Pulsar GTX3071R CS - CorkSport Manifold- Install and Impressions

I had the opportunity to get a CS manifold and after talking to @CorkSport - Derrick he mentioned that they were testing out a Tial v-band flange and he might be able to score me one early. I needed to rebuild my JB 5862 PTE anyways and found out it was actual worse than I thought and the issues I had with a spark plug melting had messed up the exhaust side. SO HERE WE GO.

VBAND PSA - The Lips that align the vband do not seal it, they are just for alignment. I emailed AGP turbo to confirm. They said as long as the flange itself matches up it should seal. My Setup is

• Pulsar GTX3071R with Vband 0.83 A/R housing "Tial"
• Tial Vband Housing from CS on the exhaust manifold "rings don't align to ebay turbo but flange does"
• Kozmic PTE Downpipe "rings don't align but flange does"

Parts List
This is how I did it, there are a ton of ways to handle this. I have Damond EGR Plate and a 3/4" line to replace the hardline that goes oil cooler to heat exchanger.

Coolant Lines

• Turbo Water Line Kit 6AN 3/8" Hose 90Deg-1/2"Barb 25cm Garrett GT3071R GTX3071R
• 1/2" radiator hose , connects turbo lines to EGR "coolant into turbo" to 3/4" Line "coolant out of turbo"
• EGR "coolant feed to turbo" -
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• Return Line "coolant exit turbo" -
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Oil Lines

• I used the same feed line I had on the PTE. The turbo comes with a restrictor. "ball bearings use less oil"
• I am not sure if this applies to the pulsar but likely does. If both sides of the fitting are flared you don't need sealant. I added a small amount of high temp sealant to mine so I am sure it is fine but something to be aware or.
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• Feed Line - https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/aaf-all46402-36/overview
  • Allstar Performance ALL46402-36 -4 AN Female 90 Degree 36 in
• Block Fitting - https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/rus-670440/overview
  • Russell Performance 670440 -4 AN, 12mm x 1.5
• Drain Line - "WORK IN PROGRESS" The PTE drain line I had was not long enough by about 3/4" and it seemed sketchy trying to "make it work" I plan to make my own hardline out of 5/8 AL tubing and compression fittings. @gotovato did a similar setup he has been a big help XOXO
• So the drain line I tried but without a proper bender I could not get the 5/8 AL to behave. I am sure if I wanted to I could spend way more time and get it. So instead I took my old line and cut the hose that was on it and extended it, it only needed about 1/2" more. Eric modifies these fittings by cutting the last bard so they fit and allow some hose slack. Normal clamps don't fit under the DEI heat tube so I used stainless cable ties, it is not pressurized so really I should not even need those.
• Pic of it on my PTE
• Parts Needed
  • ON TURBO
  • Block Side "please confirm if this is right, I just used the one from erics line" You will need thread sealer for any NPT threads.
  • Two of these
  • One of these
  • Hose rated for 300f and is oil save with nitrile inner lining. Was the cheapest I could find without buying 10feet. Erics line uses this FC598-06 Eaton Aeroquip AQP Textile Braid Hose

Sad PTE Noises - It made 600whp in this condition though so that is admirable. RIP



New Vs Old Hotness - The flange is the same diameter but the PTE has a much thinner lip for the vband centering ring so the PTE Turbo will not fit on a Tial Ex Mani Flange but Tial "garrett" turbo will fit PTE Exhaust Manifold.




I was a little worried about fitment as my current setup was Kozmic PTE downpipe and you can see the PTE def takes up more space.


I tapped the housing for a boost line. Was pretty easy. They give you a spot for it.



The install was a little tricky. This might help you get started.
The CS manifold is awesome BUT with the ability to swap flanges comes great responsibility. With all the adjustability you pretty much have to work through the process once in a dry run before you get the turbo all together. Vbands can be a wonderful terrible thing. This is a tedious process but I got it all to fit and it fits pretty well.

INSTALL

1. CS has great instructions for their manifold. HERE Make sure you snug the studs down to the block before you seat the manifold or you will be fighting some.
2. Take the turbo apart "you will need to clock it" take your time
3. Install the hotside to the Downpipe and exhaust manifold "see how it fits and the orientation"
4. Temp install the center cartridge "I used 1 bolt to hold it" be careful with turbines
5. Clock center and mark as needed "I tried to get it close to this with water feeds
6. Temp install the cold side "clock as needed and mark"
7. Now that it is all marked pull it back out of the car and get the turbo assembled "you can attached the coolant to the turbo now too" I used some thread sealer "one of the holes on the cold side went all the way through so be aware. I also sealed the boost port and turbine speed port. "Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant"
8. Re-install turbo "attach to ex mani and then do the DP" I used a rope to help hold the turbo up as I aligned it and tightened the vband" WOULD REALLY HELP IF YOU HAD ANOTHER SET OF HANDS
9. You can now follow the CS instructions for attaching the dump pipe. BUY THEIR DUMP PIPE, it would be a huge paint to make one to fit otherwise. You could also install the heat shield now, I had to snake it in there from the passenger side. This thing is a giant puzzle so take your time and you will get it. Don't forget your wastegate ring seat. I used an air compressor to hold the wastegate open while I seated it.
10. Big Shout out to CS, this thing fits and there is A LOT going on.
11. New "soon" Tial Vband Flange
12. 
13. The clamp that comes with a dump pipe is a total beast it was rock hard stable once I tightened it all up and I am not concerned with it moving and rubbing.
14. 
    
15. Connect your coolant lines - I was happy with how it all fit , and it did not make as big of a mess as I thought it would. ANY NPT THREADS NEED SEALANT OR PTFE TAPE , I use the stuff below for coolant lines and it has always worked great.

That is pretty much the meat and potatoes of it. You will need to plumb the oil drain and feed still. And adapt the new turbo 2" outlet to a 2.5" intercooler piping "if you are me"

Bonus:
What I bought to adapt the new turbo to my existing intercooler setup. PTE outlet was 2.5" GTX30 turbos are all 2" outlet "I know this seems crazy small #science #thefutureisnow"


DOG TAX


I will be updating this thread and my main thread with tuning and how it all goes. I am hoping to get the car back on the road by the end of the week but we will see.

 

couple of the images are broken!

 

Thanks, Fixed

 

Broken again

I'm not familiar with the different brands of turbo is this an attempt at seeing what an eBay turbo can do or are you looking for improvement over the old setup

 

Both, the Pulsar turbos have been pretty consistent and well reviewed on youtube etc. I am hoping to get more midrange , not looking for any more peak power as 600 was already way too much for the streets.

Should be fixed fixed now. If you copy and paste from google photos it just past the link to the image and not the file so it broke some of the pics.

 

Thats awesome and a great write up. I wanna see what kind of numbers it puts down. What was the price tag for the turbo itself?

 

$669.99 "nice" and if you spend more you can get the T51R mod lol

 

Good writeup as usual. Looking forward to seeing the results.

 

Car is on the road and the tuning has begun. Some more pictures of the setup. I will add the oil drain info to the main thread. here are a few more pics. I don't seem to have any leaks so far from the setup LTFT and AFR look good.




My intake fits way better now. I had modified @Maisonvi battery tray as the PTE turbo was closer to the drivers side and pushed the intake into it. Now I can fix it and run the bracket with it again vs a ghetto strap.

 

I updated the oil drain section on the main post.