Installing the Crank - Cranking it

Cranking it - Fun times with my Crank @alexwlwsn
I got some time last night to get the crank installed. This was not very difficult but you need to be a little methodical and take your time. The machine shop had checked clearances so I did not do any plasti gauge "JUST GONNA SEND IT"

Parts Needed

• MAHLE/CLEVITE MS2245A Crankshaft Main Bearing
• MAHLE/CLEVITE CB1925H Connecting Rod Bearing
• Red Line RED80312 Assembly Lube - 4 oz.
• Massive Speed Balance Shaft Delete Ford Focus ST 2013-2018 | Mazdaspeed 3 2007-2013 | Mazdaspeed 6 2006-2007
• Massive Speed Oil Pan Baffle Mazdaspeed 3 2007-2013 / Mazdaspeed 6 2006-2007
• ARP 218-5402 Main Stud Kit
  
• Scotts Pro-Grade shop towel
  
• Oil Squirters "if you need new ones"

Here is the procedure I followed. This video was a HUGE help. The bearings I used are Clevite MS-2245A

1. While you have the bare block there make sure you install the oil squirters and the BSD kit plug. I used red loctite on the bsd plug and some blue on the squirters. I do not know if that is needed but it makes me feel better. I did have to buy 1 new squirter from the previous engine exploding. I cleaned out the other squirters with brake clean. I did not use tq specs just nice and tight, don't go wild they are not very big bolts.
2. Now it is time to clean shit and clean it REAL GOOD. I used Naptha to clean everything. I also used break clean to spray out the oil passages on the crank. Clean all bearings and Clean all Bearing surfaces. Clean the crank Main Bearing surfaces, you can leave the rod ones as those should remain oiled until you are ready for the rods to go in. Use multiple rags and take your time. Clean motor = happy motor. The machine shop recommended I use Scotts Pro-Grade shop towels as they are cheaper and low/no lint. Do this, do not use shitty paper towels. I found them cheap in the paint aisle at Farm and Fleet
3. Now that all the surfaces are clean you can start installing the bearings on the cradle and into the block. Watch that video and other videos to get a good idea on how to do this. Clean them again before install just to be sure. You want them to go in dry "that's not what she said" The ends will be flush and the bottoms centered. The Bearings that have the groove in them go into the block, the ones that are just flat go into the cradle. Another clue is that the block bearings have holes for the oil too. The thrust washer main bearing goes in the middle you can't really mess it up if you pay attention.
4. Now that the bearings are in place and everything is clean. Lube them up with a decent coat of assembly lube. Don't go wild but a nice coat will do. I forgot to take a pic but watch the video I linked. I used the Red Line assembly lube and it is NICE. Crazy smooth and the crank spins with ease. It also had great reviews. You only need to lube the bearings the crank will get lubed when it ins set in there.
5. Now triple check that the main journals are clean on the crank and set it in the block. Be gentle and it is heavy so be aware. Once it is in there you can install your studs. OEM uses bolts but I do not like messing with torque to yield so I just got the ARP MAIN Stud Kit the instructions are on their site as well. The video also covers this very well. You will want to thread all the studs in so that they bottom out. Use a wrench and tighten to like 2 ft lbs, you are really just making sure they are bottomed out. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN and DO NOT LUBE. Now loosen each on and then tighten again by hand , double check they are all hand tight.
6. You can now lube up the bearings on the cradle and slowly drop the cradle down onto the crank. Make sure it is in the right direction I forgot to take a pic but you can figure it out same with the the crank. Now get that ARP lube and generously lube up the washers, put all the washers in place. Now put lube inside the threads of the nuts and tighten all nuts down by hand until they bottom out. You will want to start in the middle and tighten in 20 ft lb increments in a circular pattern "check video" until you reach 60 ft lbs then double check that each is at 60ft lbs. So tighten all to 20ft lb, then to 40 ft lb then 60 ft lb. Clean off excessive ARP lube.
7. You should be able to spin the crank by hand now and breathe a sigh of relief that it is in the block and you no longer have to worry about it sitting on a shelf.

 

I’ve seen a bunch of your build posts, I had no idea you were also in Iowa!
I know these are all old threads but I’m trying to gauge whether or not I can build my motor myself and all your documentation is a godsend.
I know you mentioned the machine shop did the crank bearing clearances for you, firstly: what machine shop did you use? Is it in Iowa somewhere?
And secondly: I didn’t spin any bearings and I intend to get a new ecoboost crank. Do you think I need to worry about bearing clearances much or does just going standard size with a brand new crank make sense?

 

https://g.co/kgs/4bqiSVK
Abrahams Machine Service, Inc.
Machine shop in Davenport, Iowa

That's who I used and they seemed to do a good job. I am sure standard size would be fine as nothing should have changed if the bearings were not spun and nothing has been machined. I have a buddy near Ames he might be able to recommend a machine shop that is closer to you.