Figured I'd finally document my swap. Putting a '00 Milly motor into a '02 Pro5, non-ABS, manual. Got the engine from a forum member back in August 2017 and delved into refreshing the motor. Like a complete and utter nonse, I didn't bother checking compression, mostly due to the lack of having a starter/ manual trans bellhousing to crank the motor over. New timing components/head gaskets/head bolts/water pump/oil pump were thrown on, as well as an oil pickup and pan from a Probe GT (because it turns out the Millennia got a different style oil pan due to the way the engine mounted, and of course a different pickup was added as a result. Jimmy kindly offered to help me make such a silly decision by hauling the mill with his truck Miles on the motor. For shits and grins Heads were pretty clean for the mileage. I took them apart and changed out the valve stem seals. Ghetto compression tool courtesy of PVC pipe was created to get the retainers back together Suitable for r/knolling? Knife-edged intake, left the throttle plate alone. I also did a super mild port match because the Milly got a square runner intake mated to oval port heads. The head stampings suggest this is a KL-DE and not the super amazeballs KL-ZE that I wouldn't mind having one day... Took me two months to get to this point, engine reassembled and waiting for wiring
[Reserved, wiring shit] Now that the engine mechanical is out of the way I should get to the crux of the swap: wiring. My goal was to retain OBD2 functionality, mainly because I'm a pleb and didn't want to have to worry about trying to do hokey diagnosing of any issues that may arise. That meant sitting down and grabbing the wiring diagrams to sort out what wires go where. As of today (3-6-2020) I have what I believe to be an accurate pinout diagram of a system that will work fine on this particular car. The exception to this is that the VSS is incorrectly pinned to the FB-03 plug where the working solution is to pin it to the X-06 plug. Wiring in progress, spaghetti monster... All that was pared back from the KLP2 ECU. Transmission connector entirely deleted from ECU. Downstream O2 sensors and EGR system (vent, vacuum, and position) deleted. ABS system removed too (we don't need no stinkin' ABS) This is/should be roughly what the completed system looks like. This was roughly the completed harness. The stock Milly wiring has the ECU and solenoids on the same 12v+ wire, which I was less than thrilled about. I took it upon myself to try and breakout the systems to use the Pro5 circuits available. The injectors were easy, the rest should have been too if it wasn't for me forgetting things along the way (EGR Boost solenoid (A.K.A. MAP sensor)) Two circuits were added to the JB inside the vehicle, those are highlighted on the first page of the wiring diagram. They are 12V+ constant for the ECU, and 12V+ switched, non-dying through starting for the distributor. These could likely have been added another way, but this was how I saw fit to add this circuit and retain the amperage protection that's called for. As it stands, the ECU is now on its own circuit (FB-03 'S') and the solenoids are all on (FB-03 'O') as that's what made the most sense to me. The injectors are on the same circuit as what the stock Pro5 injectors are on - (FB-03 'M') This has been updated 3-30-2020 with digitised pinout diagram. Changes to wire terminations are noted in blue on the connector sheet. The lucky thing in this swap, so far at least, is that there is a direct-swap Mazda 626 alternator that can be substituted in place of the Milly alt which has its own internal voltage regulator. Feed it a 30A source of what should be around 12V and it's a happy camper. (Removing the stock ECU from the mix meant that I lost the old voltage regulator, so that's why I'm lucky to have found that the 626 alt is internally regulated.) The KL ECU controls fuel, ignition, cooling fan, fuel pump, and that's about it. The missing functions are: - A/C -Transmission (ECU throwing codes for shift solenoids that don't exist anymore) - EGR and associated vent/vacuum solenoids, as well as positioning sensor - Downstream O2 sensors (I will eventually be running a high flow cat once I'm able to get the exhaust put together) - ABS (no light shown because no wires for that are hooked up to the cluster) I did retain, for whatever reason, the: - pressure relief valve on the firewall (charcoal canister?) - fuel tank pressure sensor (the voltage range is within the same spec between the Pro5 and Milly sensor, despite the sensors being different) - FPR solenoid (for hot start fuel pressure)
That'd be the KJ-ZEM And gleefully I can say that the swap is basically complete. Functional as it stands, I have to tidy some odds and ends up, but I've put nearly 100 miles on the swap so far with no issues!
A/C system: As far as the odds and ends go, I didn't care to retain the A/C because I made it through one Michigan summer (hot and humid) without it and wasn't completely dead afterwards. I've also not removed the condenser inside the car in case I decide to go back on my word that it's "tolerable." Cooling system: Overall I wanted to retain the OEM style radiator without the burp container, and further ease of installation due to the fact that the Milly rad mounts were just a bit wider than the Pro5 ones. Laziness at its finest. More recently I came to buy a Mishimoto radiator from a friend, so it worked out doubly as well. I'm running the loop backwards to how it's setup on the stock Milly - the outlet to the car is on the top of the radiator, and inlet from is on the bottom (at least that's my current understanding?) Basically, the stinking radiator inlets/outlets are backwards on each car, but it's not caused any issues so far - coolant temps have hovered right around 192-196 cruising. Hose (in different area codes) As for radiator hoses, there's a common substitute for the passenger hose: Dayco 72011. I cut the last 2" off the end of one side as it flares up to a larger size than required, and it fits really quite well all things considered. I made a bracket that bolts up to the alternator that keeps the hose away from the accessory drive. The driver's hose I fabricobbled together a mix of the KL upper hose and FS upper hose, and joined them with a reducing nylon hose barb. Not the prettiest in any way, but it's done the job and I trust it to withstand the abuse I'll end up putting it through. I've not yet hooked up the heater core because I'm a lazy S.O.B. (a common trend you may observe) and to be honest, I need to source a second 90 degree coupler from the firewall, which requires a trip to the junkyard in the near future. Fans As far as the fans are concerned, I modified the stock driver's side fan to clear the distributor, and that's all I am running for now. I have the shroud provided with the Mishimoto rad to be able to run the slim fans, but of course, that bumps the pass side fan out too close to the header... More work to be done there - I may just direct mount the fan on the pass side and run the ground wire to a switch inside the car so I can manually operate it. Power Steering This part was pretty simple, and then I complicated it somewhat. The stock high pressure line mates just fine to the pump, but the stock FS pump is mounted up high, near the front of the engine bay, where the KL pump sits nice and close to the rack itself. To remedy this, I decided to get some -6AN adapters for the rack and banjo bolt, and made some PTFE -6AN line to easily join the two together. For the suction hose, Mazda uses a mahoosive 7/16" I.D. hose that I couldn't be arsed to go to the junkyard to grab, so I took the inlet to Lowe's and found "heater hose" that was the right diameter and again, a brass barb was inserted inline to join the old and new hose together. I did end up removing the flared portion of the inlet as the hose fit on there like stink, so I'm not too concerned about it popping off at any point in time... Fuel Simpler than the P/S system, and kept that way, I took the barbed ends off of the stock Pro5 hoses and put them into the soft line that runs from the intermediate fuel rail (mounts on the side of the block near the transmission). This way I have true quick-disconnect lines to facilitate easier removal should that bridge need crossing any time soon.
I had a mazda protege 5spd manual as my first car and loved it. Not crazy fast but super reliable and enjoyable. I am considering getting a mazdaspeed protege some day to just have a faster version of the car I loved so much.
Progress shots, the old FSDE sitting in the corner thinking about why it's there. Transmission I decided to retain the stock gearing as I felt that going to the 4.388 final, or mucking with the 2-5 ratios was 1) too much work and 2) not something I wanted to modify at this point. I wanted to baseline what I have and see if it works. As I mentioned in post (insert number here), I can hit 65 (Excel and actual calcs say 63) in second gear, which is likely to be more than enough for autocross situations. I'm impressed with how well it pulls in all the gears (despite it being frowned upon to do WOT or near WOT pulls on a new clutch). I picked up through a black friday special a MFactory LSD, non-racepack upgrade. So far it's proved itself worth it. I've got the stock-replacement halfshafts installed for now - the G 'box is light and as a result (not directly?) is as robust as wet paper mache. Being that I'm not going to be grannying it, I wanted to keep the weak links outside of the box. Which brings me to the next cause for slight concern - the jackshaft. Sourced from a junkyard Probe GT, I'm not sure just how much I trust it to hold together. The CV at the jackshaft joint has a suspicious amount of play in it - something I'll have to look into the next time I'm back home and able to work on it. VSS I must have misunderstood the factory manual, as I could swear that the VSS feeds to the car through the fusebox, but I bypassed that and ran it directly to the main connector in the car with no issues. The stock wiring is long enough to make it to where it's got to go! Throttle Bracket I need to re-do this to add a stiffener (or make it out of thicker sheetmetal) but this allowed me to retain the stock throttle cable and clear the brake booster/master cylinder. Another reason I'm happy to use the Milly curve-neck manifold as opposed to the KLG4 or straight neck ones. Shifty shafty The MX-3/MX-6/Probe GT have a different setup at the transmission where the shift and stabilizer tube tie into. The tube on the Pro5 is too long, so it puts the shifter in a peculiar position when all is said and done. For the interim, I have trimmed it, inserted a tube with an OD around the same as the ID of the stabilizer tube and taped/hose clamped the works together. That will be welded not far off from now (read: next time I'm back home) The shift shaft itself was replaced with the unit from the Pro5 as that's allowed me to run the CorkSport Bronzeoil bushings that I've got laying around. Exhaust Fleebay strikes again. This time in the form of $107 headers... I could only expect so much, and honestly, aside from the small fact that the rear bank fouled on the oil pan, I'm pretty impressed. I had a local muffler shop modify the bend to clear the pan, as well as tweak a few other things. Currently I've had them run the headers to the stock system so I can drive it around without deafening myself to death. Cruise Control Not a must by any means, but that's been retained too. Tested it out the other day with success - the only thing I'm missing is the "brake" signal to the ECU as well as from the ECU out to the cruise control module. The "brake" signal to the CCM from the pedal is good though, so I'm not quite sure what the ECU does with the brake signal. Maybe I'll hook it up to see at some point? Other odds and ends and issues (I hope nobody reads this bit lol) I currently am chasing a loose wire issue, likely the cam position signal wire. All was going well this weekend until I took a rather aggressive turn and the car cut out on me. So I gingerly drove it back home and started wiggling wires. There's either a loose wire at the ECU itself, or a loose wire in the loom from the firewall to the ECU. I didn't re-wrap the harness anticipating issues like this, so out it comes (again, next time I'm home) hopefully for the last time. I'm going to take this time to split apart the cooling fan wires so I can run a second, manually controlled fan, and run that wiring through the firewall in a simple spot rather than poking holes and running wires all over creation. All in all, I'm pretty happy with how things have gone with this swap. Considering the end goal is a nearly year-round daily (minus winter because salt), that can be autocrossed, I'm fairly certain it'll accomplish those goals.
Honestly, the MSP is a nice car with the right amount of torque, but they're becoming harder and harder to find in well-maintained condition. I'm sure you're no stranger to rust of salt states, something I'd be weary of when buying one. I think they're great handling and looking cars, but the MSP removed some of the reliability of the N/A FSDE (IMO) I've had now three Protege5s - if that suggests the extent to which I enjoy these cars!
I had a protege 5 at one time an loved it. If I was to get another one for fun I would swap in the svt focus motor and six speed. Would be more than enough power and still reliable
I've been pretty happy seeing owners swapping in MZR mills and someone's even B-series swapped one in Puerto Rico (I believe) I think the 160hp/160tq that this engine puts out is sufficient, so I can see where the SVT Zetec motor would come into play too. As it sits, the stock Pro5 gearing allows me to hit 65mph in second, more than enough for most autocross scenarios that I'm likely to encounter.
Figured some shots of things I found on my laptop/could storage. Things nobody will ever see again unless I pull the engine. Spec flywheel was a better deal than the Fidanza unit. Southbend stage 2 daily clutch New TOB and rear main were obviously installed at the same time. Hopefully correctly. Video of shenanigans with the MFactory differential. Should have said "it puts the power to the ground or it gets the hose" but I'm a five year old at heart.
I'll sit down and go through moar pictures tomorrow. Realistically an onboard video would probably be welcomed but, of course, that camera is back home!
Costs Something I guess I should highlight for those curious $400 - motor from a friend. **With ECU and loom $465 - Could have sent it, but I decided to redo gaskets, timing belt, oil pump, etc. $70 - P/S hoses/adapters, again, could just deal with extra length of OEM high pressure line. Find hose to adapt suction side still. $1390 - Transmission bits (slave cyl, intermediate shaft, starter, (and expensive bits - clutch, flywheel, diff) $110 - Headers, which needed modifying for a little bit more. I paid $100 for a local shop to put a reducer in and am running the stock system from the resonator back. $250 - Radiator and spare 11" push/pull fan from Summit (The spare fan (for stock rad) was bought before the ally radiator was) $225 - Exhaust stuff that's yet to be installed (high flow cat, resonator, muff and tip (giggity)) $250 - Any other miscellaneous odds and ends (tach adapter, fuel lines, different oil pan -_-) All in, including the other miscellaneous stuff, I'm in the project for around $3500. That's including the "extras" for the transmission - better clutch, aluminum flywheel, and an MFactory diff. Excluding those, the total is around $2400. Realistically if you don't care to muck with the motor internally, you could buy one, slap a new rear valve cover gasket on it (because it will likely be leaking because nobody wantes to pull the intake manifold to get to the back cover), slap a new timing belt kit on it, grab a tach adapter, do some wiring, and find a KL transmission (bellhousing is different than the FS transmission, but the outer case half and internals swap right over) and probably be in the project for less than $1000...
Oil Pans Something I wrote to Rockauto about and they removed the Doorman pan from their listing for the Milly as a result (whoops) (but not really) The slotted oil pickup is from the Probe (and likely MX6) Note the height difference. Probe pan will not clear the Milly pickup (I tried and got royally cornfused) Milly pan and pickup. This is a used Probe pan with the Milly pickup. There's a small difference in capacities to the flange of the pan: 5qts to the lip on the Probe pan 5.75qts to the lip on the Milly pan Obviously this is assuming that the pan could be filled to the lip without the crank frothing the oil up, which I'm inclined to believe would happen. The windage tray is mounted to the bottom of the block. Both pans are just stamped steel. I've just kept it simple and fill to full on the dipstick - a whopping 4.5qts (lel)
Start at 28 seconds in because I am pleb and should have chopped the video more Finally an update of sorts. Video from a week ago finally uploaded/chopped. I should (read: have to) check ignition timing. I set it and it seems okay, but I'd rather not risk mucking something up at this point in time. As the video description suggests, there's still more to be done. Back home this week so hopefully I'll get done: - wiring/loose wire (likely cam position - I wiggle that connector and the engine dies) - shift stabilizer bar welded - put the interior back together (more than it currently is)
For the second time now I've pulled off the rear valve cover to chase an oil leak back there. This time grey RTV'd the valve cover gasket. If it persists, I will just quit trying to make apparently broken things work and buy another set. Let there be heat! They didn't have the under-the-radar black hose, so I had to pay for pReMiUm 5/8" hose. I snagged a second 90degree heater core elbow to be able to straight shot these hoses. Thing gets nice and toasty I re-wrapped and reinstalled the loom and am happy to report no stalling issues (as of now). I think that the way the wiring runs to the ECU in this configuration puts stress on the pins and that's why I have had a loose connection. I checked the crank and cam position sensor wires and there appears to be no breaks/knicks in any of the wires. I actually installed the ECU kick plate and jarred it while the car was running to see what would happen - no dying this time! Now on the to-do list: inspect power steering system, diagnose why pump whines - may be bad pump, hopefully not - may be insufficiently tightened connection to the pump/rack, likely weld up shift shaft - bringing to a mate's to have that done hopefully before the week is up inspect the jackshaft - I now have an OEM MSP replacement axle for both sides. I need to re-boot one of them, and may end up doing both and relegating the "new" halfshafts to being spares. front strut tower bar - need to either modify the studs that the bar mounts to (have longer ones welded on to space the bar away from the KL intake - or buy an aftermarket bar, which I would prefer to retain the OEM plus look. I could source spacers to fit under the bar that way I can go back to OEM if I sell the car for a better chassis So far still slow but steady forward progress
