Bought my MS6 in 2006 with 700mi on it. Now at 127k. TLDR: this is just a thread on me fixing my car. Been around but off the forums for a while now and most here now probably dont know me. Not noob just been away so long going to take a while to remember everything. So posting thread as I will have questions and allow you all to bash me. But mainly want thread as find it is best way track what I have done. Will will try post pics and links as I go to help others. Anyways...my car has been neglected for years now as was always working on ex wife's car. So finally going to take the time to get MS6 back into shape. Car currently runs but not great and being it is now my DD (though WFH so not driving much) I wont be able to address all the issue at once. Car used to drive fine last year so think it is boost leak but could be fuel or spark IDK yet. I know I sound like an idiot but have not done any logs/check anything with DH/AP (yes I have a Dashhawk!). Plan is/was to pull engine to replace clutch and FW. I already bought OEM LUK 10-064 clutch and suspect will go with Fidenza 161071 FW and the dual mass FW is more issue than clutch (can feel it clunking). And DMF 118 DM FW cost 2x as much. I have replaced ~4 MS6 engines and feel this will be easier than pulling trans and allow me to address any other seal issues that need replacing. But for now that is on hold. I will be fixing another car to allow me to have a spare and pull engine in MS6 in the future. Car does not run great: it acts like has a major boost leak but maybe my HPFP went. Im probably only one still running Mrlilguy HPFP and it just may have worn out. Car will accelerate smoothly by barely increasing throttle. No WOT. So first will check for boost leak and suspect will find one. Garage is a mess so have not had a chance to check using compressor but will try tomorrow. The issues started last year on a road trip to PA where car would buck if tried to accelerate and make clicking noise which I thought might be boost solenoid. So I also need to check lines to EBCS/Mac solenoid as maybe it has failed. I did have a bike and 2 kayaks above car so felt any small issues were likely being exacerbated due to added drag. Wasn't trying to go fast but felt like plug gap issues so replace plugs but no change (gaps were fine). Just ended up driving another car for past year. First project involves: Replace belt, tensioner (idler seemed ok so reinstalled (Thread on tensioner/idler pulley/belt parts)). Oil change (17mm drain bolt, 7 quarts with Balance Shaft removed, filter tool) Top off PTO/trans/Tcase as needed (will change fluids when do clutch but worry with all the leaks maybe some low (Amsoil in all but old). Replace inner/outer tie rods (cant get alignment as bolts for tierod seized). Replace front swaybar end links (not doing yet as have done many times and likely need to cut off and ones on there seem fine and think are OEMs and not sure want to use the MOOGs) Boost leak test. Check plugs and ignition coils (just replaced plugs when issues started last year, but forgot to install coil bolts and IDK how car was running but possible fuked up coils since they were literally not in contact with spark plugs). Will stretch clean and spring as maybe issue. (Is MS3 Gen2 different PN? (MS6: L3G218100B9U). replace intake filter (K&N RU-4990) (Not sure what JBR uses as says oil-less but OOS and this one will fit). Fix starter wire again (likely remove TT FMM to gain access as very hard to do from top and then may leave off and replace RMM given it is 10 years old). Compression check. Replace bumper cover clips. Broke bolt trying to replace PS so have to remove... Install new cleaned injectors Clean wheel studs/replace lugs (While taking front PS wheel off a couple of the lugs "cought up" so will have to clean stud threads and use old/get new lugs (Using RAYS 35MM 12X1.50) Once sorted plug in EGR to pass emissions as overdue by 2 years (Already have one not ready code for emissions...that will be another project). Get alignment (Firestone lifetime alignment really pays for itself when own car 10 years however they will not touch my SPC BJs). Replace RMM... Other issues would be normal PCV crap. I always get build up in my OCC lines partly due to winters and water vapor freezing. Will have to pull IM and see. I may try to weld baffle on VC (as gen1) and get the CFM filter. Thread on valve cover breather Video on CFM VCB w/gen2 VC Other thoughts: Suspension issues...rear springs too soft, want to install stiffer rear springs using phate conversion with BC perches. Front koni need help too. (Detroit axle suspension parts mentioned in video maybe?) Rear finder rust. Trunk rust. Clear coat pealing. Fix/finish stereo. Install Aquamist HFS4 and ST intake already bought. l just need to get adapter. More rust proof. I sprayed under carriage if car with LPS3 a few years ago but live in Destin FL and that is why my tie rods sized along with other rust issues. CT roads suck in winter but nothing compared to salt air by living on beach. Replace fuel filter (in tank so IDK when doing this, also maybe replace pump) Install "new" cleaned injectors (Have a spare set still I think). Install upgraded T-case brackets. So far: Drained oil and either find filter tool or buy one... Replaced tensioner with Duralst 305372, reinstalled old idler pully as was fine, May buy a new bearing to replace next time (NTN 6203lax30). Need to install belt (Dayco 5060910). The HF belt tool is a bit too long so wanted to to cut it down a few inches but was able to make it work from the bottom just more of a PITA as if did not hit headlight would have made much easier from top. However new tensioner has a fake bolt that can use vs pulley bolt so we will see. I had already bought Moog tie rods 2 years ago when was unable to get alignment so installing them. Had to cut outers to be able to use tool (very soft steal so easy). Used HF tool w/ 1-7/16 in adapter. The Moog flats did not align with OEM safety washer. Bent oem best could Not sure if you are supposed to install the AM washer and then remove and cut and bend notch into slot like OEM or what as otherwise they are pointless Outer tie rods come with a zerk fitting uninstalled and looks like under BJ has pressed in seal looks almost like like a freeze plug. I think all AM ball joints are this way vs oem being solid. But this has hole which is threaded but sealed. So if want can remove sealant and install zerk. IDK never had these parts last long enough that greasing them would make difference but Ive more replaced control arms than tie rods... Bought 0.051" safety wire to secure boot to rack. By boots are ok so reusing, but they are stiff and make not last long. Have an spare rack that may have boots so going to check if those feel any better before installing outer tie rods. New boot PN for reference is GJ6A3212X if need new ones. Assume can get AM cheaper. video for all front M6 control arms/tie rods/endlinks ect...(same as MS6). So to remove bumper cover braket bolt that sheered I will remove headlights as need another polish. While out I will replace bulbs with Morimoto D2S 6000K Morimoto XB (TSX projectors). Parts bought: Tensioner Duralst 305372 Bumper bracket: Right GJ6A-50-E11C ~$10 dealer Left: GJ6A-50-E12C Also bought both ebay $10 will see if same as OEM (edit they are not buy oem). Moog front suspension/steering parts: Inners (2x): EV800029 (OEM: GJ6E32240) Outer Left: ES800028 (OEM: G26A32290) Right: ES800027 (OEM: G26A32280) Sways Right: K80250 $17 Left: K80251 $17 0.051" safety wire for boots to rack Had to drill out one screw holding center grill 9YA590602A $1.60 Liberty Mazda but ordered with coils $1.19 shipped RAYS W171215B Black (M12 x 1.50 Thread Size) Hex Lock and Nut Set $60 ($76.86-$16 discount as box broke in shipping, AW open box, $95 new) Morimoto D2S 6000K Morimoto XB HID Xenon Bulbs (Pair) $60 K&N RU-4990 3" Air filter $50 4x coils LF2L-18-100A $254 shipped using 20SHIP promo for free shipping (or up to $20 off shipping) Other parts may need: reverse drill bits https://www.harborfreight.com/left-hand-drill-bit-set-13-pc-61686.html extractors OEM coil bolts: 9XF00215X0 Coils L3G218100B9U was using ms6 pn: L3G2-18-100B-9U which go for $90 Just found Gen2 pn LF2L-18-100A which go for $70 Any NATOR CT folks on here?