LS RX8 Build - Project Norito

I picked up an L33 5.3 Aluminum block LS engine. The plan is to rebuild it and stick it into an rx8. This project will take some time as I am not on any sort of deadline but it should be fun.

If you are coming here for help and doing a similar install please read the entire thread as there is a lot of two steps forward one step back as I try things and have to change things.

 

Boo mzr disi the rx build the supercar Mazda wouldnt

 

You first.

 

I need to get get my speed back on the road before I tackle more projects

 

So here's the plan. I am going to find an rx8 shell that is in decent shape "no rust" and slap an LS engine into it. So far I have the engine, cxracing mounting kit, haltech 2500 Elite, t56 magnum f transmission "on the way". These are the major things I need for the swap besides the car. If anyone knows where I can get a clean rx8 shell lmk. I plan to keep the rx8 electric power steering and abs. The haltech can talk to the canbus system of the rx8 so that should not be a huge deal and I have been talking to someone who has already done it.

I decided to get the L33 Aluminum block ls 5.3 engine as the AL is lighter "100lbs" over the cast iron and I plan on keeping it NA. I don't plan on going as in depth as I did with the speed for documentation because the LS is so well documented already but I will do my best.




CXracing kit - LINK

 

I ended up buying a few things to make my life easier and I am glad I did.


I bought most of the goodies from Michigan Motorsports. They are awesome. I bought this before the black friday sale "didn't know they even had one" and I emailed them to ask if I could get the sale price and they gave me 100$ back so that was pretty great.




The LS engine is dumb easy to time, you literally just align to marks. I am not going to take apart the bottom end of this motor because it was in good shape when it was pulled and had about 100k on it. I am rebuilding the top end. The heads that it came with are 799 and the machine shop had cleaned them up. I got the motor from a guy on facebook who was putting it into a Nova but decided to go a different route.

I did a ton of reading and @aaronc7 helped me pick out the right parts that I should replace while I have it apart. I would like to make 450hp reliably so I went with a stage 2 sloppy cam that is designed for a car and gives you a nice power curve. I also took some time to clean the block up. I debated painting it but it is AL so meh it is not a show car.

I just finished putting the springs on the heads the other day. I used a spring compressor tool from amazon that worked great.




You can use a long water pump bolt to hold the end of the cam which makes it easier to insert. I also covered it in Lucas Assembly Lube before install.




I went with the higher PSI oil pump but stock flow. Melling MEL10295
I followed this video to align it. The LS world is full of people who know best so it can be hard to find the truth but this just made sense to me and was easy.



Installed

• Lifters
• Timing Chain
• Chain Damper
• Sloppy Stg 2 Cam
• Oil Pump
• Valve Springs + Seals
• Thrust Plate Seal

 

Got some more goodies. Haven't done much with the engine as I am waiting on a thread chaser so I can clean up the head bolt holes before I secure the heads.

Tremec T56 MAGNUM-F Transmission 6-speed TUET16362 - Close Ratio 2.66 first gear

 

The motor is coming along. I was able to get the head threads cleaned and then the head gasket and heads installed. I am glad I cleaned the threads as they factory must use some sort of Loctite and they were pretty dirty. I bought ARP bolts for the heads which is probably overkill but they are not torque to yield which is why I got them. I did not want to buy another set if I mess something up. I also bought a diff tq wrench on Amazon because none of mine would do 18ft lbs and that seems to be some weird middle spot.

• 3/8-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench - 5-45 Ft-Lb/6.8-61Nm Torque Wrench, Dual-Direction Adjustable 72 Tooth Click
  
• Dorman 635-522 Engine Timing Cover Compatible with Select Models
  
• 8 x 1.25mm Thread Chaser Cleaning Tap
• 11 x 2mm Thread Chaser Cleaning Tap for Engine Head Bolt or Screw Holes
  
• ARP 134-3610 Head Bolts 2005+ 5.3 6.0 6.2 7.0 Gen IV Kit LS Engine HP Series
• Michigan Motorsports LS1 Cylinder Head Gaskets MLS Multi Layer
• Sunex 227zm 1/2-Inch Drive 27-mm 12 Point Impact Socket
  
• ARES 15088 – LS Harmonic Balancer Install Kit – Harmonic Balancer Installer Designed for GM LS-Based and LT-Based Engines – Install Balancer Pulleys on Domestic and Import Vehicles Requiring M16 x 2.0
• Cam Gasket Kit - ARP Damper Bolt, Timing Cover, Water Pump and Crank Seal LS1 LS2 LS6 LS3 LQ9 LQ4 4.8 5.3 5.7 6.0 6.2 ARP 234-2503 Harmonic Balancer

I had bought a pushrod length checker but it sucked and did not work. For some reason it had two nuts on it and you could not remove them and they got in the way. I ended up just installing the ones that came with the cam and once tightened down and off lobe they seem to be right. There is a little side to side play but no up and down which is great.



I also went ahead and installed the harmonic balancer which took some work. I had my kid stand on the engine stand so I did not tip the motor over when I hit tq specs of 235 fl/lbs. I bought a took to get it on most of the way and then I sent it. I also bought a new timing cover plate because it was cheap with a gasket and not super disgusting like my OG one.



Luckily I had some axle nut sockets to get this on.

 

RX8 Acquired

I was going to wait until the spring to start looking for a car but my father in law said he would be down to go soon if I found one and he has the truck and trailer so I wasn't going to argue. We did a 1 day trip, left at 5am and got back at 1am.

I picked it up in Missouri. It had lived most of its life in Oklahoma so I was hoping it was rust free. It sits dumb low to the ground right now but I plan to raise it up as it has new coilovers on it. Eventually I will get some non ebay coils but these are good for now. I offered the guy 1900$ and he took it. I got it jacked up a little and there is no rust and the pinch welds also look great. It will need a paint job eventually and some panel love but that stuff is minor compared to rust. It does not run well but I am hoping I can get it running enough to get it up my driveway.

Fit great in the trailer.


Unloaded at the house.

 

That is stupid low great color though

 

Yeah I had to order some coil wrenches because he lost the ones that came with them. It also looks easier just to remove the bottom bolt and then extend it due to a wishbone being in the way up front.

 

I put it on the charger for the day and was able to fire her up enough to get it into the garage. It died 4 times going up the driveway and took A LOT of cranks but it was nice not to have to push it. It created a giant smoke show and I smelled like I had been riding snowmobiles all day. It did sound pretty sweet when I revved it up. Pretty sure it has no cats and aftermarket exhaust.

 

I'm jealous of the 3 car garage oh and the RX-8 is cool too

 

Makes it a lot easier to have a project car and keep junk in there lol.

 

Slow and Steady

Not much progress as I have other stuff going on and this is not in any sort of hurry. Here is what I have so far.

Rear Main Plate and Seal is installed. I got a new plate because they are like 60$ and apparently can warp and leak over time. I would recommend getting one with the seal already installed as that is just easier but I was able to use my centering tool to install it. Most of the LS engine is 13mm and tq is 18ft lbs lol

I also got the new barbell installed. LS Billet Rear Galley Plug Barbell Oil Diverter fits for GM Gen III & IV LS1 LS3 LS2 LQ4 LQ9 LS6 L92 L33 L99 Oil Diverter LS Barbell 6061-T6 Aluminum Alloy Material
It installed fine. I used silicone lubricant on it.






Next I got it on the stand again and installed the windage tray. I had to modify this to fit the new oil pan. I watched a video and it was pretty straight forward.
- DIRT CHEAP OIL PAN FOR YOUR LS SWAP!


The pan worked well but the gasket did not line up well. I did end up having to slide the windage tray over just a bit which helped the gasket clear the tray. I ended up buying a Mahle gasket which is what I used a lot of on the speed. It worked better but showed up a little bent.










I also just recently bought a Vevor 7000lb portable lift. It works great and I was able to get my car up on it.

MORE INFO HERE



I am still doing a lot of thinking about wiring and other stuff but for now the next step is to start taking apart the RX8. I am hopeful I will get some time on that this weekend.

 

The oil filter attaching to the oil plan is certainly a choice. never paid attention to that on the LS~ before

 

Made some more progress.

Tested out the alternator bracket and it fits great. With the Corvette Harmonic Balancer.

1997 CHEVROLET CORVETTE 5.7L V8
DAYCO PB1117N Harmonic Balancer
GATES 45002 Water Pump
GATES 38194 Belt Tensioner
Gates K060544 Micro-V Serpentine Drive Belt
ICT Billet LS Billet Alternator Bracket Low Mount Compatible with Chevy Corvette American Made CNC Machined Aluminum 5.7L 6.0L 6.2L LS1 LSX LS3 LS2 LS6 551667-1
ICT Billet Replacement Ribbed Idler/Belt Tensioner Pulley 551528


I found an interesting article explaining how these alternators work.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/1912154-2-pin-2006-alternator-don-t-throw-away.html


I also bought a wiring harness. It will not fit perfect but it has pretty much everything I need and will make it easier for me. Not sure how much I will use or not but it makes it easier to know the factory routing since my motor did not come with one. It also came with a booklet that has some good info. I did a bunch of research on these and for the most part they seem fine there have been issues with things wired wrong but I planned to check all the connections.

Rust Hoarder Garage has some really info on them.

03-07 GMC LS Vortec Standalone Wiring Harness W/ 4L60E 4.8 5.3 6.0 Multec DBW - JY PERFORMANCE


I got a little but of time this weekend to pull apart the RX8. I am pretty close to pulling the motor and the trans. They sure stuff a lot of stuff in here. This thread was a big help. https://web.archive.org/web/2020112...e-22/diy-rx-8-engine-removal-how-pics-178937/

BEFORE

NOW


I also cut out this piece as it needs to be removed for the v8 and is not structural.


This car sat out in someone's yard for a year and the mice did get to a few things. So far nothing that I will need to use has been eaten and it could be fixed so it is not really a show stopper.
Trans Wiring


I found replacement relays on ebay for 5$ each, Mazda wanted 55$ each.

Still a ton to do but it was nice to get some time on it this weekend.

 

Small Update:

I was able to pull the motor this weekend. Took me some time to get the lift at the right height for the cherry picker to fit under the subframe but it worked out. I was able to pull the trans with it which was nice. I ended up taking the motor mounts off the engine and body which made it pretty easy to pull.

 

If you get a chance can you post a pic of the two engines side by side? I would like to compare since I know the ls is tiny

 

Update:

Was getting fired up to put the engine in but then I realized I should probably slow down and make sure I got stuff done that is easy to do with the engine out. I decided to focus on the ABS system. The ABS that comes with the RX8 has ABS and DSC built into it. This might work with an aftermarket ECU but would be a pain to deal with the DSC and it is also big and in the way of the v8 so would need to be moved. I ended up getting a Non DSC module from earlier sport models of the rx8 which does not have DSC and does not need any ecu to control the ABS as it is all built into the unit. It is also smaller and tucks in better.

I ended up up finding one on Facebook with the mount and harness. I then had to figure out how to re-route the lines and mount it in a good spot. I think I got it figured out. I still need to wire it but I want to check for leaks before that. I also picked up a new master cylinder that has ports on the side and matches the m10 double flare instead of the m12 bubble. I used 3/16 copper nickel line.

This post was also a huge help to get me sorted. If this doesn't work for some reason I can also delete the ABS but I really want to keep it for road and track driving safety.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-converting-s1-rx8-dsc-non-dsc-273297/



ABS that came with the car and has DSC , this is a Bosch unit.


ABS I picked up with the harness. Sumitomo unit no DSC.






I also spent some time hammering down the pinch welds and removing some other parts that are not needed. I was told this would help to get plugs in and out easier and worth the effort. I touched it up with some gray paint that doesn't match but it is close enough for the engine bay.




This was a slow process but every little step matters and progress is progress. Next step is probably getting firewall insulation figured out as the mice at the one that was on the car. I might also do some more work to secure the brake lines or shorten some. We will see if they clear.